Dr Basscanada

Thanks Russell for your quick response. The wood tux looks like a million bucks on the rough cedar siding I did...a darker wood. I will try some black pigment on the decking boards. Does red cedar wood show whitish after oxalic or did I do something wrong. I was hoping to regain the original western red look of the wood. Would two coats of the original wood tux leave a darker result? What do you suggest I do for the already treated orange section of deck? Thanks again

I,ve just completed 150 sq ft test using wood tux on new cedar deck. The result is an unattractive bright orange. The deck was put down 2 months ago. After safe wash and then oxalic/citralic, the wood was quite white looking. I still have 2000 ft to go but would prefer deeper gold hue. I'm not sure where I screwed up but if someone can help me I would be very grateful!!

As part of some major renovations I placed Wavey rough sawn western red cedar pretreated with CWF-UV . Two weeks later after two days of rain several areas where water had run off the roof (no eavestroughs yet) resulted in quite severe whitish blotchy areas from top to bottom. It appeared as some kind of residue but after washing with water and light brushing it remained. I will be using cabots australian or wood tux as recommended by Beth (thank you by the way) on 2000 sq ft of horizontal boards (decking) but am now obviously forced to consider stripping the newly stained siding before even staining the deck below. Can a new stain properly applied fail so quickly? If so is there a proper protocol for stripping and restaining the siding. Beth you warned me about CWF-UV but it was already applied...help Mike, Ontario, Can.