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YVPW

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Everything posted by YVPW

  1. Timber Oil would be a great choice for you. Very easy to apply, you wouldn't have any problem applying it. It and Ready Seal are two of the best stains for ease of application and restoring old wood. Armstrong Clark would be my choice, but you will need to backbrush some with it. But it's still very easy to apply and one coat would just about be all you need on your deck. Overall it's quite a bit cheaper to use also. Better spread rate, I would rate it at 150 sq.ft. a gallon spraying.
  2. If I were using Ready Seal I would get the Deckster. Because you need something that puts out a substantial amount of stain. I don't know much about Olympic stains. But the Deckster can be used to apply any penetrating oil stain.
  3. Sounds great Scott! That should mean faster shipping to us here on the east coast. Have you had a chance to use any stain yet? The Super Cedar special blend will be a popular choice along with the cedar semi-trans that Charlie mentioned. I know the semi-trans look great on old wood, but I don't know how the trans would look on it, as from what I can tell so far on test boards it looks similar in transparency as ESI stains. Have to do a job with one to find out for sure though. I like all the colors I have tested, although I don't like the redwood semi-trans by itself.
  4. Rick, Baker's & TWP use some type of copper pigment, check out Jon Fife's post on PT State. You're right copper is a great fungicide. Woodguard a penetrating stain for log homes has a copper additive that is toxic to wood destroying insects, it sure stinks though.
  5. Celeste, you wanna pic of it on a PT board along with some of there other colors?
  6. Celeste, what colors are you using, semi-trans? I would like to see how the transparent colors do on older wood. I know the semi-trans look good on older wood. I've got some of the special blend Super Cedar that I'm gonna try soon.
  7. Thanks for sharing that Rick Makes me like the stain even more.
  8. Thanks Charlie....I think you're referring to me I have visited this website almost everyday for 2 1/2 years. I feel like I know most on here, even though I don't post much. I've always enjoyed reading these forums. Thanks Beth & Rod and everyone who supports the site.
  9. Rick, I have never heard of it either. That's one question I would like to know. The pigment at the bottom of a bucket of Gray Away feels like clay, maybe it's a blend? I love the buckets that Baker's comes in. I wish all stain manufacturers used them. I've did a search on copper pigment trying to find some answers in the past. Maybe Ken, Daniel or Jim has some insight on it. Only thing that has came up in searches is old copper pigmented paint, how that copper has been used for 100's of years. All I've ever heard is that transoxide's are the best, but side by side with AC the Baker's doesn't look any different. Maybe with UV's the transoxide's are better at least that's what they say.
  10. Baker's uses copper pigment. Baker's is 100% paraffin oil but it has a great spread rate. I have mixed it with other stuff to get curing properties. The deck blend has less overall solids if you count oil as a solid, but it will last longer on a deck. It also looks better since there isn't so much oil to turn the wood dark. Mainly to be used on newer wood. One thing stain manufacturers can do is ship the contractors the concentrate and let us add our on MS. I know of at least one company doing that. I have tested one of those products, but the product didn't have any parrafin oil in it and I didn't like it, although they can ship you the oil too. Too much trouble doing all that mixing when there's already manufacturers that have those type of products made up and ready to be shipped. But as you all said in the near future that may have to be done if that is the type of stain one desires since they will be changing the VOC laws. A lot of the manufacturers count parrafin oil as a solid, which it is since it doesn't evaporate. While others like Russell count solids in Wood Tux as pigment and resin. Both of these are definitely important numbers. They effect the look of the stain, longevity and the replenishment of oil to wood. Ready Seal and Timber Oil both have to be high in the parrafin oil & pigment solids. Both are great at restoring wood. Charlie, using both of those stains together is a great combination. It's just a hassle to change products during the job or having to come back and stain later with Wood Tux. IMO the best thing to do is use a stain with the combination of both on older wood. Which I'm sure that's why you've considered AC. I think you will like it.
  11. Charlie I guess great minds think alike, lol. Well anyway on to the topic.. IMO if we are truly in business to restore old weathered wood, we should never use just a straight alkyd whether mineral spirits or water or anything else is the carrier(I think Wood Tux does have some parrafin oil in it, but a stain for restored wood needs quite a bit more). And most definitely not a water based product. When the wood is new the natural sugars and oils are for the most part still in the wood, especially deep down. That's where a product like Wood Tux or for Log Homes water based stains can come in. Charlie you need to try Baker's Gray Away and AC on an old deck. It will look much better than Wood Tux or Stain & Seal and you are actually restoring the wood. Stain & Seal does have more parrafin oil in it, but IMO it still doesn't come close to doing what Baker's and AC do. I'm sure TWP has some stains that fit the bill also, just haven't used them. Tom Baker down at Texas Wood Products can also make a deck blend that has more mineral spirits and less parrafin oil, it finishes beautifully. More for the semi-new decks, 3 year range. You have to order at least 40 gallons for him to make that blend. It's probably more like TWP 100 series. That is, If I've understood correctly about the 100 series.
  12. After reviewing my posts on this topic I wanted to clear something up. I still think Wood Tux and Stain & Seal look the best on newer wood(logs, hardwoods etc.) I think AC is better for older wood. Really Wood Tux by itself shouldn't be used to restore old weathered wood. Like Rick has mentioned in the past that parrafin oil based stains are the best for wood.
  13. The defelting pads hang over the edge of the backer pad. But they still work fine. I know you can get the backer at a HF store. I don't think it comes with the sander though. You can get some backer pad's that are flexible.
  14. yeah it is very similar in color to Brown Sugar. I've got some more stuff coming from AC. I'm gonna play with some colors on semi-new and old wood to see what I can come up with.
  15. Charlie AC's cedar is light to medium brown unlike most that are orange or orange red.
  16. it's one of many different brands of strippers, usually methylene chloride based. If you're using an oil based stain you shouldn't have to use anything like that. But in the worst case scenario go to Home Depot grab a can of Kleen Strip(the one with the little spray bottle attached to the side) and spray the areas of stain and pressure wash off, wear heavy duty chemical resistant gloves with that stripper.
  17. If the stain is already dried, which I'm suspecting it is mineral spirits won't do much for it. Try mixing your stripper strong & mixing in some butyl type degreaser and saturate the concrete. Best thing to do is mix it in a bucket and then just dump the bucket out on the concrete. A pump sprayer can't keep it wet enough in the hot sun. Let it dwell for 15 min.'s or so. Then use a surface cleaner if you have one or wand and wash it right off. You should get most of it out of the concrete.
  18. Crown actually makes a brush cleaner, you can get it in a quart sized can. I've used it before and it works great. You can also do like Kevin said use a solvent blend and then a degreaser. Just don't let the brushes stay in the solvent for long it will melt the bristles.
  19. Ken, they use transoxide pigments. I looked at the job yesterday and it looks almost identical to Baker's. But it has a higher spread rate than Gray Away. So that pretty closely evens out the difference in price. Baker's is a little easier to apply. When they told me one coat I thought to myself I've never used a true one coat stain on old wood. But I tell you this is pretty much true from what I can tell so far. The stain really needs to be backbrushed as with most full bodied stains. I didn't on the balusters and I could tell yesterday that it needed it. An 18" truck brush works wonders on that though. The floor was very even, not even the slightest variance in color like you get with other products. I used the semi-trans but it's more opaque than Tux or Stain & Seal. I'm gonna get some samples of there transparent colors and check those out. I also restored another deck 2 houses down from this deck. Wood almost the same age never sealed. I stained it with Stain & Seal Western Cedar. It will be interesting to see how they compare over time. I love the color of the Stain & Seal but it's not near as even or full, even with several coats on the floor. My favorite color of Stain & Seal is the WoodZo color. I had told Russell one day that I loved the color of half brown sugar, half western cedar and that I had been using that blend a few times. He told me that was the color of WoodZo.
  20. It will fit the Harbor Freight buffer, actually the Harbor Freight comes with a backer pad if I'm not mistaken. Or I may have picked it up at there store, can't remember. You can use it for the defelting pads. The pads work great on smoother wood.
  21. I have also used one a few times in the past. Those things make a floor look beautiful.
  22. I just used AC for the first time. I stained a PT deck with 1/2 cedar 1/2 sierra redwood blended together. Deck was 7 years old never sealed. The stain covered in one coat, except for a couple floor boards that needed a little more. I've used a lot of different stains and I have to say it's probably one of my favorites. Just finished the deck yesterday so I will have to wait and see how it turns out. But as of right now it's full of color. Easy to apply. I will say it's better than Wood Tux and Woodrich Stain & Seal. I'm gonna use up the remainder of my Stain & Seal and not use anymore Extreme Solutions stains. Comes in nice 5 gallon buckets you can take the lid off and easily mix. I hate the cube containers that Wood Tux comes in, those things aren't made for stain. Main thing is this company has been in business for many, many years and there products are proven time and time again. If everything goes like I think it will AC and Baker's is all I will use. Ken, you should try AC it covers a lot like Gray Away.
  23. Ken, I meant Ben Moore paint mixed with Thompsons.
  24. What Osbornes does everyone use and where do you get them? I guess I'm gonna have to get a square bristled Osborne and find out if it's better. Only thing is the places I've seen to buy them want a high price for them.
  25. One of my workers told me that when he worked for a log home contractor that the owner used to mix Benjamin Moore and Thompsons together and put it on log homes.
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