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YVPW

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Posts posted by YVPW

  1. Posted · Edited by YVPW · Report reply

    Sounds great Scott! That should mean faster shipping to us here on the east coast. Have you had a chance to use any stain yet? The Super Cedar special blend will be a popular choice along with the cedar semi-trans that Charlie mentioned. I know the semi-trans look great on old wood, but I don't know how the trans would look on it, as from what I can tell so far on test boards it looks similar in transparency as ESI stains. Have to do a job with one to find out for sure though. I like all the colors I have tested, although I don't like the redwood semi-trans by itself.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Rick, I have never heard of it either. That's one question I would like to know. The pigment at the bottom of a bucket of Gray Away feels like clay, maybe it's a blend? I love the buckets that Baker's comes in. I wish all stain manufacturers used them. I've did a search on copper pigment trying to find some answers in the past. Maybe Ken, Daniel or Jim has some insight on it. Only thing that has came up in searches is old copper pigmented paint, how that copper has been used for 100's of years.

    All I've ever heard is that transoxide's are the best, but side by side with AC the Baker's doesn't look any different. Maybe with UV's the transoxide's are better at least that's what they say.

  8. Posted · Edited by YVPW · Report reply

    Baker's uses copper pigment. Baker's is 100% paraffin oil but it has a great spread rate. I have mixed it with other stuff to get curing properties. The deck blend has less overall solids if you count oil as a solid, but it will last longer on a deck. It also looks better since there isn't so much oil to turn the wood dark. Mainly to be used on newer wood.

    One thing stain manufacturers can do is ship the contractors the concentrate and let us add our on MS. I know of at least one company doing that. I have tested one of those products, but the product didn't have any parrafin oil in it and I didn't like it, although they can ship you the oil too. Too much trouble doing all that mixing when there's already manufacturers that have those type of products made up and ready to be shipped. But as you all said in the near future that may have to be done if that is the type of stain one desires since they will be changing the VOC laws.

    A lot of the manufacturers count parrafin oil as a solid, which it is since it doesn't evaporate. While others like Russell count solids in Wood Tux as pigment and resin. Both of these are definitely important numbers. They effect the look of the stain, longevity and the replenishment of oil to wood. Ready Seal and Timber Oil both have to be high in the parrafin oil & pigment solids. Both are great at restoring wood.

    Charlie, using both of those stains together is a great combination. It's just a hassle to change products during the job or having to come back and stain later with Wood Tux. IMO the best thing to do is use a stain with the combination of both on older wood. Which I'm sure that's why you've considered AC. I think you will like it.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Charlie I guess great minds think alike, lol. Well anyway on to the topic..

    IMO if we are truly in business to restore old weathered wood, we should never use just a straight alkyd whether mineral spirits or water or anything else is the carrier(I think Wood Tux does have some parrafin oil in it, but a stain for restored wood needs quite a bit more). And most definitely not a water based product. When the wood is new the natural sugars and oils are for the most part still in the wood, especially deep down. That's where a product like Wood Tux or for Log Homes water based stains can come in.

    Charlie you need to try Baker's Gray Away and AC on an old deck. It will look much better than Wood Tux or Stain & Seal and you are actually restoring the wood. Stain & Seal does have more parrafin oil in it, but IMO it still doesn't come close to doing what Baker's and AC do. I'm sure TWP has some stains that fit the bill also, just haven't used them. Tom Baker down at Texas Wood Products can also make a deck blend that has more mineral spirits and less parrafin oil, it finishes beautifully. More for the semi-new decks, 3 year range. You have to order at least 40 gallons for him to make that blend. It's probably more like TWP 100 series. That is, If I've understood correctly about the 100 series.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    it's one of many different brands of strippers, usually methylene chloride based. If you're using an oil based stain you shouldn't have to use anything like that. But in the worst case scenario go to Home Depot grab a can of Kleen Strip(the one with the little spray bottle attached to the side) and spray the areas of stain and pressure wash off, wear heavy duty chemical resistant gloves with that stripper.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    If the stain is already dried, which I'm suspecting it is mineral spirits won't do much for it. Try mixing your stripper strong & mixing in some butyl type degreaser and saturate the concrete. Best thing to do is mix it in a bucket and then just dump the bucket out on the concrete. A pump sprayer can't keep it wet enough in the hot sun. Let it dwell for 15 min.'s or so. Then use a surface cleaner if you have one or wand and wash it right off. You should get most of it out of the concrete.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Ken, they use transoxide pigments. I looked at the job yesterday and it looks almost identical to Baker's. But it has a higher spread rate than Gray Away. So that pretty closely evens out the difference in price. Baker's is a little easier to apply. When they told me one coat I thought to myself I've never used a true one coat stain on old wood. But I tell you this is pretty much true from what I can tell so far. The stain really needs to be backbrushed as with most full bodied stains. I didn't on the balusters and I could tell yesterday that it needed it. An 18" truck brush works wonders on that though. The floor was very even, not even the slightest variance in color like you get with other products. I used the semi-trans but it's more opaque than Tux or Stain & Seal. I'm gonna get some samples of there transparent colors and check those out.

    I also restored another deck 2 houses down from this deck. Wood almost the same age never sealed. I stained it with Stain & Seal Western Cedar. It will be interesting to see how they compare over time. I love the color of the Stain & Seal but it's not near as even or full, even with several coats on the floor.

    My favorite color of Stain & Seal is the WoodZo color. I had told Russell one day that I loved the color of half brown sugar, half western cedar and that I had been using that blend a few times. He told me that was the color of WoodZo.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I just used AC for the first time. I stained a PT deck with 1/2 cedar 1/2 sierra redwood blended together. Deck was 7 years old never sealed. The stain covered in one coat, except for a couple floor boards that needed a little more. I've used a lot of different stains and I have to say it's probably one of my favorites. Just finished the deck yesterday so I will have to wait and see how it turns out. But as of right now it's full of color. Easy to apply. I will say it's better than Wood Tux and Woodrich Stain & Seal. I'm gonna use up the remainder of my Stain & Seal and not use anymore Extreme Solutions stains. Comes in nice 5 gallon buckets you can take the lid off and easily mix. I hate the cube containers that Wood Tux comes in, those things aren't made for stain. Main thing is this company has been in business for many, many years and there products are proven time and time again. If everything goes like I think it will AC and Baker's is all I will use.

    Ken, you should try AC it covers a lot like Gray Away.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Ken, which Baker's are you using? I know Tom makes a deck version with more mineral spirits in it. I've used both, and they both look great. The deck version has a cleaner look, not as dark since there's less oil. The standard version(more parrafin oil) is great for older neglected wood, the copper pigment also hides the imperfections in old wood. I'm doing a log house with Super Cedar this week.

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