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YVPW

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Posts posted by YVPW


  1. Just wanted to see if anyone had a good distributor for the flat bristled 6" 80 grit Osborne's? I have always bought the round bristled from McMaster Carr for around 40 some dollars. I had always wanted to try the flat bristled, but wasn't willing to pay the ridiculous price they want from some of the log home stores. For the ones who have used both, Is there that much of a difference between the 2 different style bristles?


  2. Bleach is a high alkaline also and needs to be neutralized like any other alkaline soap. Although you can get away with not doing it on penetrating stains. Log home finishes are a different story though. If you're doing maintenance washes then no neutralizing is needed cause the bleach hasn't soaked into the wood. 90% of the time I use an extra step after stripping to hit the wood with bleach. The stripper doesn't get rid of the mildew in the wood, and percarb is a sorry cleaner of real tough mildew and dirt IMO. I've used EFC-38 at 8oz.'s a gallon and still wouldn't touch a baked on mildewed deck.


  3. I get the round bristle 6" Osborns from McMaster-Carr for around $40-$45. There not as aggressive as the flat bristle Osborns. I've really never looked into finding a good place to get the flat bristles. I know Permachink and log home supply stores sell them for a ridiculous inflated price of over a $100 a piece. They wouldn't rob a person, or nothing! I don't see how they sell any of them. Maybe someone else has found a good spot to buy the flat bristled Osborns


  4. Dan I understand what you did with this customer. I've did the very same thing before. You did an excellent job with the deck, and I'm sure they're very happy with it. If you want a variable speed buffer go to Harbor Freight and get one for $30. Don't waste your money on the Makita's. You can get about 7 Harbor Freight buffers for the price of one Makita. Really I don't see why someone would wanna waste there money on the Dewalt's & Makita's. The buffers I have aren't junk either. I use the crap out of them had them to get wrapped up in cord and start smoking, rained on you name it. I've also used them with 7" sanding discs for 8 hours a day at times. They still work! I've only had one to ever stop on me and took it back and they replaced with a brand new one. You can't beat it. I've got 7 of those buffers all with Osborn's. I keep some for backup just in case it goes out.


  5. I had a brand new pad and you could rub over it and the bristles come out. It covered the deck with them. I have some more pads, maybe that was a bad one. I'll try them again. When it happened I thought to myself does everyone have this problem with these pads. I have used the small Shurlines from Lowe's before but they weren't as good as the Padco lambswool. I used to always use the Padco lambswool pads, they worked great. Then I switched over to using the 10" lambswool pads at Sherwin-Williams. I've never liked the Shurline pads cause they seem to be cheap made, but thought I would give the 18's a try. I was using them to backpad Wood Tux.


  6. Sorry for the delay, but for some reason it would not let me post. Anyway to answer your questions, yes I am 95% sure I rinsed it well, yes I rinsed the ox off because I always thought we had to, I tried scraping with my nail and it really did not come off. It actually feels like crud. It is regular PTW. I am going to sand the hand rails before sealing and see what happens. Thanks for the advice.

    I would use Baker's Gray Away stain on that deck. It will hide the imperfections in that wood better. I had a deck like that earlier this year around the same age. It was gray but really no mildew. I could tell it had been sealed with something before, a clear. I stripped and stripped and neutralized still the wood didn't look right. I would try and scratch it, but it felt real weird. I even tried F-18 at 20oz.'s to a gallon on one spot to see what it would do, and it was same as the rest. I don't know what was in that wood and the homeowner hadn't owned the house but about 5 years so they didn't know. I had thought there might be some water based stain in it, but after that many years it should of been easily stripped with HD-80 and F-18. I'm puzzled by it. For time reasons I used Wood Tux WHG on it and it didn't look good at all, cause the WT is so transparent. The homeowner was pleased but I definitely sure wasn't.


  7. From what I've seen with F-18 and HD-80 is when using the same ounces per gallon. The HD-80 is hotter and will work quicker, but the F-18 can be mixed stronger. If you were stripping a stain at 6 oz.'s to a gallon with HD-80 and it took it 15 min.'s to be ready to rinse it would probably take 8 oz.'s of F-18 to get the same 15 min.'s. But you could get by with 6 just a longer dwell. The surfactants in F-18 make it cling better to verticals. But with that it is harder to rinse. I think F-18 is better than anything for cleaning unsealed gray wood. I don't think you could go wrong with either one.


  8. After watching the 5 seasons of the '24' series on DVD nothing else seems to satisfy me anymore. I can't find anything to compare to them. I've saw quite a few movies lately but nothing that sticks out as being very good. But I don't watch the R rated movies that would probably be pretty good if not for the language and other stuff. So there may be some out there, hope to find a good one some day.


  9. I've sprayed a light mix of stripper on them before and it didn't hurt them at all. I would do like Rick said and to a test spot. As far as staining, the stain should wipe right off of them. It's according to if it's like the ones I've done, but you could just spray the whole deck and then wipe off the metal if some gets on them. Ready Seal will work better if it's sprayed, hard to get enough on with a brush.

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