Dan Stapleton

Ken, Is Woodrich easier to apply then Wood Tux? Is it as viscous? Some of the issues with lap marks, drying, sheen etc. concern me as I have my first deck stain coming up Tuesday. I've decided to scrap the pump-up and roll then back pad. What size, type roller cover would you recommend? I'm assuming a roller will allow more stain per dip and the pad will even out the roller marks. Is it better to roll, back pad in sections or roll it all then back pad? I have the shoe coverings. Forgive the rookie questions, I will appreciate your thoughts and experience. Dan

What are the best cleaning methods/chemicals and sealer? I'm thinking a light housewash soak and rinse, and V-seal. They are new and have a white powdery substance on the surface. Concrete dust from the joints I think. There is a 20x20 concrete pad in the front. What are some going rates for clear sealer on concrete and pavers ? Thanks.

I thought swedish wood(y) oil was used for something else.

Alright, get out your pen,paper,calculator and test bottles this is an acutely technical way to determine if your Sodium Hypochlorite is strong enough. Rub some between your fingers. If it fizzes and gets hot it's good if it does'nt, get more.

For you guys that spray decks, do you back pad the whole deck or just areas that puddle? Thanks in advance.

Well, after 11 yrs of PW and not one issue with windows I did my first deck restore and have miniscule white spots on a UV sliding glass door. They have been their for a week because the customer did'nt inform me until today. (Stain day)Windows were pre-wet and rinsed during and after. I'm sure it is from the Percarbonate as I KNOW their was no brightener/neutralizer anywhere near them. I've read a recent thread about brake cleaner being used but I don't want to go that route. Any suggestions based on experience? Was thinking white vineger? Any help will be appreciated. On a side note, although I don't have anything to compare it to, the Woodrich was a breeze to work with. The color was a bit different then I expected but from what I understand it may change a bit as it cures. I've lost my Woodginity!

Keep the price low.

Nice Job, Nice Digs.

Adrian, Whatever you do, DONT look like Dog the Bounty Hunter!!!

Interesting........Let us know if you give it a whirl and have good results.

Get ready for the onslaught!

Im no expert on the subject, Mike but Hydroflouric is what some use, Personally I stay away from it. I think Phosphoric is a safer substitute. Maybe you can check into the Restora. See what Tracy knows how it will work on Vinyl that old. Let us know what you come up with and how it turns out.

Mike, Do a search on two-stepping. That's another option. (cheaper)

I got the name, Tim. Thanks again.

Thanks for the info.

No offense intended, Tim, I was just curious. I also work in shorts ( how could you not, down here? ) I tried the poly-blend shirts for chem resistance but to me, they're uncomfortable. Next time you are in the market for boots, the LaCrosse Hawthorne have very good traction on roofs, are Neoprene lined and the outer rubber holds up well to chems. They are comfortable and being ankle high your agility is'nt compromised.

Tim, Congratulations on your success, you have some nice equipment there. Personally, I think that traditional methods- High flow and low pressure are faster, more effective and safe in the right hands but to each his own. You've found a market for it. Do you always work in sandels?

Anybody know the patent office' phone number?

Cut a nice V in my knee cap with a 25 degree tip while hurrying to get the corner of a pool deck done. Slid down the valley of a metal tiled three story roof ( was tied off to the lift on the opposite side ) after stepping in wet coating. The old coating was the fiber reinforced silver asphaltic based junk. I was scratching and clawing as the deck railing on the ground that I was lined up with got closer and closer. The rope caught me about 5 ft from the edge. It was fun spraying the rest of the roof full of fear and elastomeric coating not to mention having my wife tweeze asphaltic coating chips out of my butt and thighs.

Ken, It was'nt fresh Thompsons. Three years.....he thinks. The difficulty in stripping led me to believe that it was a Thompsons acrylic. I used a Sodium Hydroxide based cleaner that I had on hand. Next strip will be done with HD80. The percarb was just testing on my part. And yes, I will spot test any future decks, for sure. No more bonehead maneuvers like skipping that step. Spots aside ( you practicly need a magnifying glass ) they are happy with the attention I've paid their deck and know a quality product was used. Thanks to you guys on this forum, they think I'm Joe Wood Expert.

It was a cheap, locally bought percarbonate. The deck was stripped, then neutralized. I hope it's not the oxalic on there, I was so careful. I stripped what I suspect was Thompsons acrylic, three times and there were a few spots left. I went back and hit those few spots with the Percarb just to see what would happen......nothing. I've read the debates and am aware of your stance on the percarb/neutralization. The customer realizes that I should have been informed of the problem sooner.

Thanks Russ, the homeowner has tried windex several times, I'm going back Thursday to put back the wrought iron furniture (yippee) I'll try a mild soap, scrubbing and lots of h20.

Bob, Good time to check out the F18max on fresh oil spills.

Paul, what hose is it that you use? and is it non-marking? Thanks

I've got 100 ft of gray neptune attached to 100 ft of gray gates hose. The gates hose seems to be wearing better. It is still shiny and not dulled or nicked as much as the neptune. I'm going to pay attention to this thread , maybe someone else has more info.