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Greg R

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Posts posted by Greg R

  7. Posted · Report reply

    I did on our Indiana Prowash build.  I used 2" automotive exhaust pipe welded to a flange that 90'd and goes through the floor (a 4" hole with a metal flange bracket).  This was off of a 16 HP Briggs vtwin with the low mount muffler so a 2" flange bolted right up to it though.  On high mounts I would bet flex pipe would be a better option.

     

    It echos being under the truck but it keeps the box pretty clean and exhaust free.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    We've been scheduling Spring 2014 for a couple months now.  We take 20% down to book as well.  Things get incredibly busy very quickly.  So much so that we unfortunately lose some clients that simply don't have the patience to wait 6 to 8 weeks for service therefore the deposit separates the serious from the tire kickers.  Been doing it that way for 17 years.  I know of a few companies that take 50% down and sit on it for 4 months.

     

    We always try to encourage a credit card for payment this time of the year though so make customers feel a little more at ease.  Rarely is it ever a concern or problem though.  Reputation goes a long way though too.

    Jason Reider reacted to this

  11. Posted · Report reply

    We have one or two a year that opt to go natural after restoring the deck even though it's against everything I stand for. Ultimately it's their deck though. We use the Wolman Raincoat water base on them. There's no way to use an oil without imparting some darkening or amber color to the wood. Raincoat is by no means is a superb product but it's easy to clean and recoat. Just make them aware it will need done annually and will not provide any UV protection. The best option would be something like AC Amber or similar but some people just don't get it :)

  13. Posted · Report reply

    BGA has to be mixed. Always tons of pigment in the bottom that stays there unless you mix it. We started using paddle bits even to make sure its suspended well to insure good color retention over the 2 years.

    Metal cans suck. That is what thing I do not care for with regard to AC. Totally understand the purpose but I'm a big fan of the plastic buckets too. BGA lids always snap back on tight and don't give us much of a problem at all. I only have issues with the buckets sucking in on opened containers with the BGA. RS had more of an issue with that for some reason.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Anyone looked into it? I've been exploring the information available on it and thought it might be a good road to go down to improve employee retention not to mention business revenue. With the gov sticking their paws into the unemployment they're going to make it harder for "seasonal" employees to make it through the off season months so it's time to sail this ship over 12 months.

    Greg

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Well unfortunately I new this was coming... day in day out I was watching people buy this crap from Home Depot to slather on their deck. The mere thought of it sends chills down my spine!! Well today was the day :(

    Stopped by an appointment today - went around back and BAMM! Restore. It looked aweful and was peeling everywhere. So has anyone ran into this crap before? I have a feeling the only solution is to scrap and sand it off as it's like a hard shelled epoxy you would find on a garage floor.

    Fun! or should I say RUN :)

    post-1818-137772455476_thumb.jpg

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Hello Grime Scene community,

    This is my first post so go easy on me! In regards to these defelting pads that everyone uses, could anyone tell me what the actual name or make of the pad is. I would order straight from the link that Charlie provided, but I live in Ontario Canada, so I need to find something local. Looking forward to many more posts.

    Regards

    They're a special order item. We used to order a 1000 at a time to get them to cut the order. You can use Osborne brushes as well but they're slower Imo. We actually use both.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    So. I think then I will break out the stain in my rates. I'm still a little unclear now whether 17% stain cost is high or low. If costs are running 35%-40%, how much of that is stain, or of what percentage to revenue?

    Thanks guys. I appreciate your experience and knowledge

    The % isn't out of line in my opinion as a sum of the invoice. Our % fluctuates a decent amount with a low of 10% to a high of 25% depending on the project. Fencing for instance generally has a lower cost per sq ft for labor yet eats up a whole lot more material than a deck. As long as your profitable on the retail end of the stain (another good reason to bid it out separately) that's all that matters. From there just make sure your making what you need to make on the labor end. We have a decent mark up on our stain products to the customer as well but I know when we use AC there's not much there to be made due to the expense.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    We bid the finish as a separate line item as well for both sales tax and mark up purposes. In Indiana we have to collect sales tax on the stain only. The remainder of the labor and chems do not require us to do so. With regard to cost yes you just have to charge more especially if your ordering in small quantities. We usually bring in 240 gallons at a time to insure adequate stock and save on freight costs but we're dedicated wood so I know we'll use it quickly. I would suggest keeping your pricing the same and just adding in the stain as a separate line item. You might be surprised as too what the market will bear :)

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