One Tough Pressure

Read this first. http://forums.thegrimescene.com/showthread.php?t=5242&highlight=general+pump+surface

Check for string, hair, and so on wrapped on the swivel underneath. It may be covered by dirt and not noticed right away. A swivel or "rotary union" is best when it has a grease fitting, but some of the cheaper ones do not. I have been using a Mosmatic sealed carbide version for just under 2 years now. It never needed greasing and worked fine until now. For the price, I have no problem tossing in a new one.

I know the feeling way to well. Having stomach issues, I make sure that I do not eat the wrong items before a job anymore, or drink to much water during. When you work alone at night and just about everything is closed, it can be a real pain. I have had to roll up and leave the same job 3 times in a night to go home to go. Lucky for me it was a local job. Once and I hope it never happens again, I grabbed a handful of my clean rags and a trash can liner and went for the alley. The cramps were so bad I had no other choice, other than my pants. I learned that diet plays a heavy roll in it. They say that the natural elimination cycle is 4am to noon when on a sensible diet. The way folks eat here in the States, all day is potty time.

Klenztone offers free samples.

Usually when a company does not have a distrib in your area they sell direct. I guess that was not an option. What is so special about these fittings?

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You can contact them for dealer info. http://www.winnipegplastics.com/contact.htm I like www.banjocorp.com for my fittings.

Craig, Why not try Klenztone? It is also an acid based restoration chem that should do just fine.

There is a little more to the story. http://www.snopes.com/politics/immigration/taxes.asp

Funny that they do not have an anti siphon on there. I am sure you do not have air gaps on your equipment. Impossible on direct fed units. Looks like they went to the plumbing store and just bought parts, that thing is brand new.

Dultmeier sells the CAT nozzle which looks very similar to the X Jet, however I have never seen the real X Jet in the catalog, and a quick check online did not reveal one. Going to www.dultmeier.com and doing a search for cat nozzle will get you there. For the time that it takes to get the parts and attempt to build one, you could have made your money back. If they were so easy to make, then they would not be so popular, as everyone would be making there own.

Practice makes perfect. It will come naturally as you do it more often.

Make sure you have areas that you can use it before shelling out the dough.

Take Jim up on his offer, he is your best right now.

I am to lazy to go out and take pics right now, but will try to get some soon. They can be found at any quality irrigation/plumbing supply house. Under the cover that may be bolted down if not used often, is the female end of the coupler. Some of the couplers that I have come across, have had the dust cap locked in place. This can be opened with the standard 4 way water key. Go to www.grainger.com and put 3W730 in the search. Their links always seem to timeout so that should work. You can see the bottom end of the coupler.

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Well that saves a ton this time around.

Jeff, The device that HotShot is referring to is most often called a irrigation line quick connect. They have different sizes, the most common for my area is 1/2", but they also use 1" on occasion. The 1/2" will do 20 gpm, so do not be fooled by the size. Typically found under a small green or purple cover in the bushes or grass, this is what the landscapers use to hand water areas. They are standard here even in sprinkler zones. Usually close by is a rectangular valve box iof roughly 10x14, so that helps to find the smaller ones. Ask the building folks if they know anything, or just look around on your own. They are usually close to the curb line, inline with the sprinklers. As far as hydrants, you can get adaptors to reduce to 3/4" lines. I have not had to run over 200 feet of supply off a hydrant and flow was way more than adequate. That was even up the side of a 3 story garage. Make sure that your fittings/clamps are secure. With the added psi and gpm of a hydrant, you do not need anything blowing apart. If you have very long hose runs, you can use a fire hose for a branch line and then split at the end of it. For quick fills, I have a 1 1/2" hydrant adaptor that I use. Does not get much use, but goes real fast when needed. The hose is rubber so 20 feet of it weighs a decent amount and helps to counteract the hydrant strength.

David, How any hours do you have on these pumps? Do they bypass to the tank?

In that case you need to pick me up and I use your equipment.

Maybe I should just drive over there and you can watch me. How much are you paying?

So it was not the horse? What kind of pump? I got a brand new AR 3025 3600 psi 8 gpm for just under $800.00 Sounds odd to have a pump rebuilt for that much. Unless you broke a rod or something. Lets hear some details, and see if the same thing happens again if you can do the work yourself and save some cash.

All depends on the size. I have bigger tips for the surfacer, as well as a bypass on the pump, it all depends on the situation. Too much pressure will strip color very quick. I say test with a dual lance and when you see how much pressure you can use, do a pressure check and dial in the surface cleaner if you want to use it. How many sq ft are we talking about?

Propane and a match, lots and lots of Propane. As with any other concrete, it depends on the age, the type of soil and the surface condition. Lower psi and a good prespray is usually on my agenda with colored.

And why was that? Sounds like a lot of labor on that bill.