One Tough Pressure

Try wiping the stain off first. You will need to use a cleaner to do this, but start off weak, unless you know what sealer it is. Many sealers require a methylene chloride to strip, but if they used a cheap acrylic, then sodium or potassium hydroxide will take it off. Use caution.

If that is all they want, then give them what they asked for. What is the big deal? No different than a gas station who wants his fuel lanes cleaned but not the refueling pad. I get those all the time. If I want to pursue the issue and sell the whole thing rather than what they want, they will just call someone else until they find a guy to perform as needed. I just did a housewash, filthy on the front, and clean on the rest. They said they were very happy that i just gave them a price on the front as requested, as a few others insisted on the whole thing. Wasted time on their part.

It would mainly depend on how far away from the surface your tips are. I use 15° and I have also used 25°. I did not see a difference. More of a personal choice I think. For the cost, I would say just get the 15's and give it a whirl.

Dan, You basically doubled your hose length, and gained around 75 psi at the same time. You could add another 100 feet and still have more pressure than the 1/4" at 25 feet.

I only use my gauges for calibration and then they go back in the tool box. I have one with 1/4" qc's for the gun and another one with 3/8" qc's for before the gun. In order to see the spike pressure, you must have it before the gun.

Machines like that often come with 1/4" hose, so if he bumped up to 3/8", then the difference would be noticeable. When I bumped my hose up to 1/2" for 8 gpm, it was a nearly 500 psi difference.

You need to have a pressure gauge and set them to your machine as should be done with all unloaders. Unlike others, they increase pressure by turning the nut out rather than in. http://www.generalpump.com/PDFs/ZK1-Unloader.pdf#search='general%20zk1'

Your hood mix should work fine. How do you apply that? I only use 2 pump ups, 1 for acid and 1 for alkaline.

Use the ZK1 and reducer where needed, it will work just fine. My ZK1 came with a 3/8" inlet & Outlet, while the bypass is 1/2". My last Zk1 had the 1/2" outlet though. I have run these on 5 gpm and 8 gpm units and they are far superior than the K7.

It's not that they pay so little, it's that many wash so slow. Most commercial cleaners, meaning the ones with ahot water, a surface cleaner and hose reels can be in and out in no time, making decent money. Area has alot to do with it as well, because I have quite a few Kohls around here in a small area. Like 7-Eleven, they seem to be on every corner.

Yes Scott, I ran my original hoses unitil about about 2 months ago. Many repairs due to abuse, but they did well. I probably could get some more use from them, but am tired of the repairs as it was happening more often. As far as hours, I can only guess as my hour meters have not been on the machine since new, and I have replaced them several times. I use them to track maintenance and thats it. I know you probably log more hours in a month than I do in 6, but my little one man show is doing plenty.

My GoodYear Neptune 4500 psi R2 hoses have lasted as long as 4 years, while a brand new Neptune 3000 psi 1 wire lasted all of 2 months, and when repaired sprung 6 more leaks. Out of the 100 feet, I only have 30 feet left, and it is on it's way out real soon. Less than 3 months old. I tried to be cheap, and save a buck, but it is just $175.00 in the trash, not to mention all of the repairs trying to milk the life out of it. I will go back to 2 wire hose only, on my next order.

Those swivels are there to assist in the assembly of equipment. Notice that most hoses only have one on one end. Try putting a fixed end crimp on the hose reel and see what I mean. I get all my hoses repaired with solid ends, but I also run swivels on all my guns. I use JIC type fittings to get the solid ends in places like the reel and such.

I used to be very particular about seeing the place first, but over the years have done many over the phone. I ask the pertinent questions that relate to the job, and then give them a starting price, stating that the price may be higher once I get there. It works very well for me, saves me time, makes it convenient for the customer, and many more. This is for residential only though, as I always look at commercial first.

If you do a pump head check and the pressure is correct, then it is most likely the unloader. Could also be the coil is scaled. Remember to make sure that trigger gun stays open on the pump head check. Do the pump head check, and if all is okay, then do another check just after the unloader. If that is fine as well, then you would need to descale the coil. If that check is lower, then it is the unloader. I use a ZK1 flow type unloader and am really happy with them. I used to use the K-7, but they fail so often, I had to find something else.

Wally, I will give my guy a call on Monday and see what he can do for you.

The freight is the same as the unit itself? Man, what a rip off. I am not familiar with any dealers in Florida. What about a dealer in California?

You need to do a pump head pressure check. Disconnect all accessories from the high pressure outlet of the pump and put on a small section of hose, no more than 50 feet. Attach the gun and gauge with a new or nearly new nozzle and put a zip tie to keep the gun open. Hold on tight, and start the machine to do the pressure check. If you do not use the zip tie, DO NOT LET GO OF THE TRIGGER while the machine is running or until the engine completely stops after turning it off. If you do, you will blow the hose or worse, the pump head, since their is no unloader to bypass. If the pressure is still low, you probably need new packings.

A man and his wife are dining at a table in a plush restaurant, and the husband keeps staring at a drunken lady swigging her gin as she sits alone at a nearby table. The wife asks, "Do you know her?" "Yes," sighs the husband, "She's my ex-wife. She took to drinking right after we divorced seven years ago, and I hear she hasn't been sober since." "My God!" says the wife. "Who would think a person could go on celebrating that long."

Does your bypass go back to the tank or back to the pump? If it goes to the tank, then look in there while squeezing the trigger and see if water is coming in. If it is to the pump, pinch the bypass line with pliers and see if that raises the pressure.

http://forums.thegrimescene.com/showthread.php?t=4902&highlight=floater

The Steel Eagle Floaters are pretty tough little units. The rotary union is unlike any I have seen before, but has performed well on a 12" that is used with a 4/3000 unit on a regular basis.

That is the way I have the water jug set up, as far as the barbs and the filter. Having that extra 2 gallons of space is really a timesaver for me. Since the handle is molded in, I can ferociously twist the jug to mix my powders, as I do not like sticks with chem on them laying around.

My opinion is that the wheeled units rock, and I own both. A wheeled unit can be tilted back so that it does not bottom out on uneven concrete such as driveways, and handicap access curbs. You can lift the handle, ride on the front caster and go sideways just like a castered or hover unit, and they are so easy to push around. I use the 24" Steel Eagle, and the only other way I would have it, would be to get a 30" Steel Eagle. Casters on most units are cheap and fail more often than you would like. The front caster on the Steel Eagle has never let me down, and it has been around the block many times. You can get it with the Deublin Rotary Union, which is the same that the Landa Water Jet uses. I have no use for an adjustable like the Landa, as it will not fit under many things that I clean such as benches. We ought to meet up and you can play with my Steel Eagle. I am less than 2 hours away in Simi Valley.

They would probablt get killed for it. Of course they do, as so many send money back home boosting the economy there.