One Tough Pressure

http://www.youtube.com/player.swf?video_id=vEWLwz6JRNE&l=357&s=B4BC767524

I burned myself a few times not noticing small details that haunted me later. I would handle the task at hand the best I could, even if I lost money, as it was my oversight. I now am very observant of things that may take extra time and explain to the customer ahead of time. If they want the paint gone, I will do it, if they don't I will just general clean. Whatever they want to pay, is what I will do.

I do not carry signage, as I am not looking for the average homeowner that usually calls. My work is commercial with very few exceptions, ie repeat residential or referral from them. The most common question I get is "what do you use that equipment for?" My standard answer is Concrete Cleaning, but if I feel they are a worthy candidate, I will ask them what they need done. Usual answer from them is "just curious". Why bother to ask then is my thought.

Do you use bend restrictors on your hose? If not, that may be the problem with ends going bad from extreme angles. I have used only Good Year hose for nearly 4 years and like it very much. I would blame the crimper before the hose maker. Wonder if the crimper cut off enough hose to get a good end to repair. Try some of the reusable ends that Russ mentioned and see if that makes a difference.

I know many that would argue with the "improves the value" line, but it would be hard to dispute that it "helps to maintain the value", or "saves money for unneeded services" ie painting, new fence, concrete replacement. I have done some residential jobs where the neighbors come to ask what I am doing, and when told, they are shocked that all it needs is a good cleaning, and not replacement. Some had spent all their shiny pennies on new stuff, just to find that it could have been cleaned.

I will be needing to get a new trailer sometime soon. Currently I have an All American factory trailer and the frame is open, meaning that there is no diamond plate decking or wood. It is made from 2x3 boxed steel and is very durable. All the trailers I have looked at are made with channel steel or angle iron. And then have a wood or diamond plate deck. The local dealer here, and an article in Cleaner Times a few months back both are saying that because of the water weight, that the factory trailers sold with wash units are much better and more durable. So aside from the axle ratings and the brakes, who thinks these heavy duty factory trailers are any better? I need to figure on buying a production trailer or getting a tube framed one made.

http://www.cleantrashcans.com/

I considered it after reading a story of some guy in Florida doing it. I called the trash company here and they will exchange the cans for free every six months. They said that very few people ever do so and since most everybody here stores them outside, I stuck with my commercial pursuits.

Buy an All American with 18 gallon tanks.

The shells are Stainless Steel, with 1/4" gap on the top and around the sides. The brush skirts are custom by Fuller Brush.

I would sacrifice that extra CFM and go for the lift on the Nikro. 83" is not enough.

Nikro does not have an air powered wet vac. The vac needs a steel drum, not a poly , as it will buckle from the heat of the vacuum surfacers. The Nikro has much more power than the largest Goodway listed on their site. The filter is similar to a sock, with a large holding capacity.

Steel Eagle makes both a vacuum and a vacuum/washer combo. The combo needs a hot box if you want hot water though. The vacuum is what creates the drag on the surface cleaners, and the extra hose is not that big of a deal if you zig zag and keep the hose behind you. Carpet cleaner tie theirs together to make life a little easier. Craig, Are you gonna clone yours or should I make some space?

I have set up several vacuum systems for other folks and this is the vacuum that i reccomend, as it has the most bang for the buck. You will need to install a sump pump in the drum or you will be busy draining the drum all the time. As far as the surface cleaner goes, you will need a sturdy inner shell to create the vacuum and a brush skirt that will seal to the ground, with the vertical of the bristles being the only points where air comes in. Depending on the underside design of the rotoblaster, you may need to shorten the arms to allow the extra shell. The addition of 2 vacuum ports on the outer shell, should not interfere with the inner shell, and should th project go south, you will have an abused surface cleaner that may not work anymore. My suggestion is if you really need one, just buy a production version that has been engineered and tested to perform as you need. I li9ke the Steel Eagles. http://www.steeleagle.com/C&C%20floor%20tools.htm

What kind of surface cleaner is it? If you plan to make a recovery one out of a non recovery one, then you will need a very large vacuum, and I mean LARGE.

John, Welcome to The Grime Scene, havent seen you around the boards in a long time, so guess business has been treating you well and keeping you busy. If memory serves correct, you only do residential and have been for years. Although I am a die hard hot water user, if you plan to stay in the market you are in, then forget the hot water and add it later if you plan to do more concrete.

I will have to get a close up of the mounting for my lights, but here is a distant view. http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2075&d=1118196023 I run one side at a time off the skid, so I get 1000 watts. If I need light to set up and such, I run them off my bigger generator. The pole lights at Hone Depot and such work well, but are not sturdy to travel with on the pole. I plan to get some of those to put in remote areas where the trailer will not fit. I also use a battery powered head light which does the trick pretty well too.

I get my hoses repaired at the local hydraulic, for $5.00 an end. I generally keep 150-200 on the reel and carry another 200 for back up. I always get solid ends on my hose as the swivels fail quick. I use a Suttner swivel on the gun and it helps the hose to last longer.

I find that most leather boots with a coat of Mink Oil do well. My problem is that my shins get splashed, and soak thru to my socks, that then wick the water into the boot.

It is a 1/4" line but with no tip for a restriction. It would be the same as if you ran an open gun with no tip.

I reduced the 1/2" bypass down to 3/8" to use the line I already had installed. The bypass is lower pressure and no more volume than the pressure side. However if it makes you feel better then up to the 1/2" I get my hoses run over frequently, and have not had any problems. Car tires are not so bad, but big trucks and solid fork lift wheels will do some damage.

I use the Zk1 and like it very much. I was using K-7's but they kept failing way to soon. The only thing that will be noticably different than most unloaders is that when adjusting the pressure, you crank the nut counter clockwise rather than clockwise. I bypass to the tank, but also have a three way ball valve to return the bypass to the pump, so that I can upstream without filling my tank with chems. http://www.generalpump.com/PDFs/ZK1-Unloader.pdf#search='zk1'

I forgot to mention that these are supposed to be balanced so if you shorten it, then you may get wobbles. Is your surfacer like the ones they sell today, or is it the one with the adjustable pressure and the rubber rear wheels?

I am not sure what the difference between the old and new spray bars is. Mine both have the same type bar. Can you take a picture and post it here or e-mail it to me? I have considered going to the euro type connectors for the Fury and then using a ball valve to switch between the 2 of them when needed. The euro connectors have more stability to them, but do not come apart as fast. What type of vacuum are you using with the surfacer?

2 lbs of F-18 for 5 gallons water is equal to 6.4 ounces per gallon. After running that thru the X-Jet at 2:1, it will be the same as if you mixed it at 2.13 ounces per gallon and applied with a pump up. I mix F-18 at 1 lb per gallon and then X Jet with good results.