One Tough Pressure

Go ahead and try using larger lines, and when the tank nears getting empty, you will get plenty of air in the system. 3/4" will provide more than enough to 8 gpm and under machines.

Be nice they may have some loyal followers. It does go to show that extensive field testing was probably not done. They may also not have tested it with hot water as they did not feel a need. I used my plastic drum vacuum from vacu boom with my smaller fury. The drum was ready to collapse from heat and suction. I later saw that same vacuum marketed as a hot water capable vac. I called the company and asked a few questions and I have not seen those ads since, nor have I heard anything about them using that vacuum anymore.

The bypass is a low pressure line so that poly braid hose is perfect. The water supply from the tank to the pump should be as close to the bottom as possible to allow for gravity feed, as well as suction.

Actually, there is a production surface cleaner that has the bypass valve and has been around for many years. It is the original Fury made by Pro Chem. I have only seen the Hydro Tek in print, but must say that using it and loading do not seem practical. I am also not keen on dragging an extension cord thru wet areas. Have fun going under anything with it.

Will have to take one, but it is simple. I drilled a hole slightly smaller than my barbed fitting and then screwed the threaded end into the tank, near the top.

Your Welcome Rob. When I do that much per hour, it is with my non recovery 24" Steel Eagle. I X-Jet the suitable cleaner, surface clean and then go back to rinse, edge and get the gum. I use hot water and the machine is 5 at 3500. When recovering on a job like this, it is with vacuboom and setup is not included in the square feet cleaned per hour. It really doesn't take long to set it up though. An X-jet is a chemical proportioner that will apply chems at much stronger rates than a traditional downstream or upstream application. The draw rate is 2:1. One part chem to 2 parts water. I see no reason the three motor head can not be used, but having the power on hand for it may be a big issue for some. Each of those motors is 13 amps so with 3 you will be at 39 amps just for the vacuum, then you add a sump pump and you jumped to 49 amps. You throw in anything else such as another pump in a recycling system, a couple lights and you are really getting up there. Jon ran a 10,000 watt Porter cable generator and he had trouble with starting amps of equipment and he was using the dual head Nikro. When using the Fury tools, it restricts the full CFM of the vacuum and intensifies the LIFT aka Hg. Hg can and will crush a vacuum drum without a vacuum relief valve. I compacted my newly made 55 gallon drum and it had a relief valve. I had to do a heavy rescue to salvage my internal parts inside the drum. Craig, did they say it would be 2 weeks or are you figuring that based on what most companies would do? Packing should only be for the head as the handle doesn't need to go. Can you take a picture of the underside and send to me with points to where it comes out of adjustment? I may have some ideas to help. I also have a way to adjust pressure on these units, but have yet to make it happen on mine. It would be to install a valve on the gun side with a bypass back to the vacuum port. Think of it like a dual lance surface cleaner. I have my valve installed on the machine and have to adjust it there and then go work, vs having it on the surfacer and being able to dial in on the spot. This also reduces the gpm but that should not be a problem in most cases, unless you are relying on pressure alone to clean.

The only reason to filter it more would be for reuse and machine protection. No need to make canister filters as you can buy polishing filters with 1.5" lines and choose the micron ratrings for the sediment filters. They even sell carbon canisters to fit inside. As far as the Steel Eagle, did they offer to replace the whole thing, or did you ask? It should still be under warranty and I think they would make it right. I have talked to Carl Harry the general manager many times and he seems willing to do whatever it would take to fix the problem. I am not sure how much the Deublin spray bars are different from the Clean tech Brass, but I have not had any issues with mine except for general wear and tear.

I have a Honda 20 hp that will not start. I have it narrowed down to no spark, but have no clue after that. Everything else seems fine, have gas, oil level is good, ran machine for 3 hours yesterday and no problems.

Here is me and my problem solved for now. I have beefed up the line and put more slack in it. I may do what Scott did and run the line up the right side to eliminate the sharp bend of the hose and reduce heat that made it shrink. The original fuel line got hard and brittle so when I replaced the fuel filter, I replaced the line, but I guess it was cheap stuff, as it did not last long before shrinking. Extra fuel line will be part of my [arts box incase I have another episode. So the recent problems were a bad magneto, and a pinched fuel line. The magneto was easier to diagnose than the fuel line. The fuel pump had debris inside from my brief bypass of it. If my gas was gravity fed to the fuel pump, it may not have been a problem, but the tank is below the engine on this one.

You may already know this, but I figure I better add, the closer the tank to the pump, the better. Use at least 3/4" lines, but no more than 1". You want good flow, but to large of a line will limit suction. My rear tank is 10 feet of hose from the pump and it does fine with 3/4". Use good quality hose so that it does not get sucked closed. I use heater hose from HD.

Craig, Thanks for the kind words. I see that you are now running 2" hose, how many feet do you run? I am sure it was an improvement, but you never mentioned how much. What's that "Special Filter", do I already know or do you have something to share? I like that "Clean & Relocation", as it works well.

I second that.

Lance, A belt drive will pull water from a tank without any pressure. It is best to have the line come from the bottom of the tank so that gravity can assist the pump though. It can be side mounted, so the tank can sit flat, but the lower the better. Make sure the tank lid has a vent so that you can get air into the tank and not starve the pump.

I was expecting that the person did a search for wood contractors and wondered if you traveled.

Back in the days, I was into auto sound. Soundstream, Boston Acoustic, ACS, Sony, & Harmon Kardon. These days I settle for what comes in the vehicle.

Sometimes and I stress the sometimes, it is for the better. They have done that around here with older neighborhoods that were in very bad shape. The residents were unable to afford any repair and up keep and the place looked like "Sanford & Son". No one would have bought into an area like this, so the residents got decent money to pack up and walk away to make room for modernization.

Clean & Capture rocks if you have a use for it. It saves times and does a great job when doing interior work, or other sensitive areas.

Ken, How is it that they found you way over there? Steve, Nice to see another Californian, come around more often.

Any kinks in the fuel line? Due to routing they sometimes shrink from the heat and cut themselves off. This gave me intermittent problems with some equipment.

I had an Aluma-Wood (http://www.alumawood.com/) Patio cover to clean today with the typical black streaks. I used a sodium hydroxide product, a potassium hydroxide product, & even brushed it, but nothing would get the streaks off. I approached the customer and told them that I was unable to get satisfactory results and would have to pass on the job. They were just as baffled as I was as they were told that all they would have to do is brush it with dish soap and water to make it look new again. The lady of the house insisted that I try her favorite products such as windex, oil eater, Jasco TSP, which all failed to get the streaks off. What gives with this stuff?

Butyl based alone or added to somethig else? Any brand names that are readily available would be nice, so I can do a test and see if it will work.

Where's Carlos, does he do wood? We do not have much out here. I know Tim Lynch is up North and does wood. You can find him on Power Wash Network. www.powerwashnetwork.com

It is nice to have a variety of lances on hand. I have a hot washer, so I only use insulated wands, but with cold it is optional. When choosing guns, it is important to make sure that they are rated for your gpm and psi. I prefer the straight guns.

Surface cleaners are a must have. They have many versions at many price ranges, so even if you will only use it occasionaly, it is worth the investment. What kind of machine do you have and how often will you use the surfacer?

Time got a little tight and I did not have time to change anything, before I ran it again. All was fine and no dying, or back giring so for the moment it has cured itself. I will eventually dig into it again, but for now it runs well, so why tweak what is not broken.