One Tough Pressure

Regapping it is then. I will do that tomorrow morning, as it is maintenace day for me. I used the .25mm as that is what the untouched one was. I have had no problems with the battery, so the coils are good for now.

I have been having a stalling problem after the washer runs for several hours and my local dealer says that in the past they have found that the cause of this was either old oil, or improper type being used, causing the heated oil to get pushed into the cylinder and reducing or eliminating spark. Anyone ever heard of this? I use 10-30 with an SL code, and the book calls for a 10-30 with a SJ or higher. I was using Castrol and last round I used Quaker State. I will change it and see if the problem goes away.

Ran the machine again for several hours with no problems. I had a feeling the oil story was a weird one. I am leaning towards the stop diode on the magnetos, and next time it happens, I will pull the wires and see if it happens again. These intermittent problems are a pain to diagnose.

Charging as in battery charging or ? I have not gone under the flywheel as of yet, and I hope I do not have to. I ran the machine another 3 hours last night and all was fine until the end, when it started to intermittent run rough and backfire on occasion. It has yet to bog like it was but it still needs some fine tuning.

I recognize number 7 as the diode, numbers 1 & 3 as the magnetos, but what is number 5? It would be cheaper to buy a new engine and use it for parts, rather than buy individual parts. I have already bought half an engine with the cost of parts. Just figures.

I checked for any pinched wires since I had the cover off a few times and none were found. I replaced the right side magneto, and since I did not have any reference at the time, gapped it the same as the left side, which is.25mm All was fine for the first 4 hours then the machine stalled many times in the last hour. I have a meter so that will be my next task. I have been told that if I disconnect the diode that goes to the magneto and it runs fine then that is my problem. If it runs fine without the diode then what purpose does it serve?

I agree that the handle is slightly bent. I have bent mine like that when I reeled in hose very fadt and then the hose binded on the reel for an instant stop. Not sure of the size, but mine is mounted with 4 bolts.

I replaced the fuel filter, and cut open the old one. It had some plastic chips in it from my water in the tank issue a short while back. I had bypassed the fuel filter for a brief moment when checking to see if that would help anything. When the water would not allow starting. The fuel pomp did not make any changes so I am still searching for answers. Most of my work is at night, so it is fairly cool. I am not sure that vapor lock is my issue, but you never know. Had major problems today, I lost spark on the right side many times. It would run great for a few minutes then bog on one cylinder, then flat out die. I am pissed, as I have changed many things and as soon as I think I get it fixed, it is something else. Changed items in last few weeks fuel filter plugs fuel pump removed and inspected carb twice removed and flushed gas tank twice So the next item on the list I guess would be the magneto's. Not sure what they go for or how readily available they are. I also have a new carb solenoid on the way, just in case. I guess if the oil sensor was flawed that it would cut spark to both plugs and not just one. I have checked the oil a gazillion times just to make sure it is correct and it is fine. Just changed it and oil filter, so I am confident that the filter is not clogged and causing issues. My last ditch effort if this can not be resolved very quickly will be to ask the local shop to pull a new motor off a skid and replace the whole darn thing. I will then send the current one in to get fixed and have a back up. Afterall, you never know when you might need it.

Greetings Tim!

Rather than all the water going out the one port, to the unloader and then to the burner, you install the valve on the other hp outlet and bypass water either to the tank or to the pump again. The burner will get less water to heat, so it will make what it gets hotter depending on how much you bypass. You do not want to run this valve after the pressure switch for the burner or it will continue to run after you release the trigger, due to the flow of water.

Hers some valves for you Don. Note the first picture has 4 total. The gauge is there only for an after the unloader before the coil pressure check.

I added my own. A general pump metering valve on the hp side of the pump. It makes some very HOT water. It has been useful in quite a few situations. Less water to deal with for interior cleaning when a wand is used. Can adjust pressure of the surface cleaner for delicate surfaces as well. May be advisable to have an adjustable thermostat as well.

If mine was vapor locking, why now and never before? One of the problems I found before I started this thread andafter I replaced the original fuel filter, was that the hose to the fuel pump from the filter was kinked due to the loop that it has to make and I pulled it to hard when getting the old filter off. It still ran but kinked hoses are never good. I ditched that Napa filter and use a racor, same as the burner has. No guessing ig there is any water in the tank now. Open trailer, hot water

Plugs and fuel filter are both brand new. I even use a Racor fuel filter to see if there is any water in the gas. I have put more ISO HEET fuel line treatment in latelyy than some have gas. Maybe I should just fill the tank with it. The only number below the starter is GCAD 2037447. Will the aftermarket pumps fit under the cover? What is the price on the real version by Honda?

This thread started out because of my no spark, but that cured itself after sitting overnight. My current issue and an issue for a month or two has been intermittent bogging/lack of power at any given moment. It is either a fuel or a spark problem, because even with the air cleaner removed for a test, it made no difference. I can be running at full speed and then suddenly the rpm's drop to 2000 and it wants to die. I have talked to many people and they all are stumped. Russ has provided info here that noone else was able to. The local places that fix Honda, do not have any storage for my trailer and they insist that it stays overnight. Not gonna happen.

Vacuum operated fuel pump! Never heard of one of those, but that may be my problem. I had a huge water in the fuel issue back in early March and since I can not take the pump apart, have to wonder if maybe there is residual moisture in this item, or if it got damaged by the water. How much are fuel pumps? I can not see a number 9 but there are some wires that go under the cover near the starter. I can feel a number 10 a few inches away from the oil filter, but due to mounting, can not get my head in there to see it. It does not have any wires coming off of it either. I will pull the cover later for a better view. I also found a small hose, about 1/8" ID near the number 10 that does not go anywhere. Is there a breather in this area, or did something come apart? You have been a great help Russ, keep it coming. Thank you

Yes, it is number one. Number 6 is my fuel filter, so what is number 21? Wash Away, your a funny guy, with that reference to #7. I know a grommet when I see one. I changed the oil, made triple sure it was perfect and I still get a intermittent bogging of the engine. I was unable to find the low oil switch, unless it is under the red front cover, which I did not pull off today.

I went out this morning and it fired right up. Pissed off the neighbor even though I waited till 8:30. Damn some people are sensitive. Anyway, I did not change anything from yesterday, just turned the key. I did check the oil again before I started and all was fine, but I smell carb cleaner in it. I sprayed a bit in the carb yesterday when troubleshooting as I thought it was a fuel problem to start. What would cause either carb cleaner or gas to leak into the oil? I would guess worn rings, but this engine has less than 1000 hrs on it. It is draining, so I will see if that thnned out oil caused the problem. The white thing does not have power or any mechanical ability to be a fuel pump. The fuel line goes from the tank to this gizmo and then to the carb, and the return line from the carb goes to it. Any front views of the engine and I can point it out.

Russ, thank you for the pic, will try it as soon as it is late enough to make some noise. So the oil switch is related to spark? Do you know what the white plastic thing with three barbs is? It is located right behind the black cover near the choke and idle control. I am guessing it is part of smog. The fuel lines runs to it, and then from there it goes to the carb and there is a return line from the carb. Bruce, I have experienced some stalling at extreme angles in the past, but currently it is parked at home where it always runs fine. Thank you both for your thoughts on this.

Oh, I am just the king of all ball valves, just not on my high pressure lines. I guess I need to take some pictures. As far as the guys with built in guns on their surfacers, all I can say is I love my Steel Eagles, as none of them are built in.

This thread addresses a few issues of making your own products. http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3791

On their way to get married, a young Catholic couple are involved in a fatal car accident. The couple find themselves sitting outside the Pearly Gates waiting for St. Peter to process them into Heaven. While waiting, they begin to wonder: Could they possibly get married in Heaven? When St. Peter shows up, they asked him. St. Peter says, "I don't know. This is the first time anyone has asked. Let me go find out," and he leaves. The couple sat and waited for an answer. Two months pass and the couple are still waiting. So as they waited, they discussed that IF they were allowed to get married in Heaven, SHOULD they get married, what with the eternal aspect of it all. "What if it doesn't work?" they wondered, "Are we stuck together FOREVER?" After yet another month, St. Peter finally returns, looking somewhat bedraggled. "Yes," he informs the couple, "you CAN get married in Heaven." "Great!" said the couple, "But we were just wondering, what if things don't work out? Could we also get a divorce in Heaven?" St. Peter, red-faced with anger, slams his clipboard onto the ground. "What's wrong?" asked the frightened couple. "OH, COME ON!" St Peter shouts, "It took me three months to find a priest up here! Do you have ANY idea how long it'll take me to find a lawyer?"

If you add the defoamer to your soap mix, you will then get no foam, and thus no cling for dwell time. If you do not need a very long dwell time, then it may work that way, but I would not advise it,

It is much easier to stop foam before it begins, rather than after it starts. Did you put the defoamer in at the beginning, or after it started to show? I use a general defoamer that the carpet cleaners use, but rarely have a problem, so do not use it much anymore. Go with what Ken said and add the defoamer first.

How much time are we talking here? I mean this is not Nascar, and with those 11 gallon tanks, you are not filling them all that much. I use Scribner racing jugs. They come with the vent plugged per CA law, but nothing is to stop you from poking a small hole in them.You could drill a small hole and then use a golf tee to plug it when not in use.