One Tough Pressure

If inhalation is a concern, do not use the Potassium Hydroxide either. Simple Green may help you out. They have a fragrance free version called crystal. What type of work is this? You can safely wash the area, but can not safely use chemicals. Please elaborate.

Do you have hot water? Try it first if you do, but even hot can sometimes not be enough. What is the concern of the HD80, customers, or runoff?

Hot water is a real good start. You talked about HD80 earlier, so start with a mild solution of that and work your way up as needed. Should come right off with the HD80 and even cold water.

Are you tired of being called at all hours by those pesky salespeople? Check this out. www.donotcall.gov

I believe that Glenn owns the rights to the Pitch Witch.

Was at Home Depot today in the Paint section. Heard someone ask the HD employee if they knew how to get cat urine odor out of concrete. "He said sure do" as he handed them a can of BEHR concrete sealer. He recommended to them that they paint over it with this and the smell would be gone. Does anyone have any comments to this, as to whether it is true or false? I can not believe that the sealer will eliminate the smell. Please advise.

Hey Paul, No need for the PW, just rub in some of that beach sand :fishing: that you have out back, and the charcoal will be gone. Good point on the enzyme stuff needing to be used first. I never thought about that, but if there is no bacteria, then it can not work. I think this job calls for rotary extraction, (FURY) and that is why I referred them to a carpet/tile cleaner. The cat only did a small area (bad kitty) they say, and when they tried to clean it themselves, they made it spread to the whole room. (Bad kitty parents) Will wait and see if they call.

Well, I did stop them after they finished with the HD clerk. I told them that trying to cover up something like that is ill advised and that they need an enzyme type cleaner. They said they tried a few and that none of them worked. I have tried bleach and after many gallons, had no quality results. They also admitted that they were to cause for this as they were trying to clean a smaller area, and then it spread to the whole room. They were now going to replace the carpet and pad, but needed to get the odor out of the concrete first. My suggestion was try baking soda first, and if that fails, call a carpet cleaner who has tile and grout capabilities. Left them with a card, so if they call, I will recommend the "OUT".

Pipe Insulation worked well. Cheap and easy, to prevent any customer upset. Stores easy too. Found another use for it also. Put about 4 feet at the end of the hose, to prevent burns from the hose and couplings.

The driveways are not **** and span and could use a cleaning, but lately I have had a few customers that plan on replacing the driveway soon, and do not want it washed. My marks are from turning the wheels , and pivoting of the trailer. They do wash away fairly easy, since they are fresh. I do have a newer vehicle, so I have no problems with leaks, as of yet, but if I were to, they would be addressed asap.

The reason that I sometimes have to park in the driveway is because of these large driveways, that are 200 to 300 feet long. I use a trailer mounted unit, and running hose for the length of the drive, plus more to the backyard is not going to work. Today for example, I was doing someones backyard. After parking in the driveway, which was 250 feet long, I then ran 250 feet of pressure hose, to reach the end of the back yard. If I were to park in the road, that would of been 500 feet of hose. Wish I could of sold them a driveway wash too, as it was a 4000sq foot one. But they are getting it redone soon and did not want to spend the money for washing.

Ammonia is a good stripper. It can and will do some damage to painted surfaces. Did you wipe or scrub the gutters that he was able to get clean? Sometimes the no touch cleaning approach does not produce favorable results. Tom, Nice looking website. See your a Ford Man also.

I will be using Ron's idea on Thursday. I bought it in 6 foot lengths, for $1.28 each, at a local hardware store. Will be using 50 feet of the stuff, so hope it works, or I will be leaving the ugliest brown streak in town. Just for info, I am not washing houses with hot water, this is for the Concrete and Flagstone in the back. They do not have a paved path, so the grass is the only choice.

In regards to the spam email. Do not click on the unsubscribe button, as it is only a tool for them to see which addresses are valid, and they will send more. Unsolicited faxes sometimes also have a number on the bottom to be removed from their list. I have called a few times, and never got another one from the companies that I called. E-mail wise, I have very few problems. Every once in a while I get some junk, but not very often. I am on Adelphia now, but when I had AOL, it never stopped. Finally had to dump them for that reason. As far as the calls go, I used to get way to many, and it seems like the more you say no, the more they feel compelled to push the issue. I finally got fed up and just told them I was on their DO NOT CALL list and they had better end the call now. ( I was not really then, but I was desperate for them to stop) That worked, they apologized profusely and then hung up. The calls have slowed down to not so many lately after telling them that I am on the list. They do listen when you say that.

That bad huh?

Paul, What is a BFCPC?

Can not find the link right now, but here is a file photo. It is for 3/4" lines.

When I use my downstreamer, I place it just before the gun. I do need to drag around a bucket, but it is not really a problem, as I do not use it very often. I have not put a gauge on when I have run long hose lines. I have 350' if needed, but have only used 250'. Pressure loss what not a problem, as I generally do not run more than 2000 psi, so with the loss from 3500, it is not a big deal. They do have pumps that are made for home firefighting and also have a foamer for it. It is really cool looking, I will have to find the link for you.

Very interesting topic indeed. I have never run more than 100 feet of supply hose to my unit, as I have 350' of pressure hose if needed. In general, I do not fill on site and work off of my tank, but of course that is not always possible, but since I recycle water, I can make it last longer than most people. In wash down situations, I have used both 3/4", and 5/8" hose for 200 + feet and have not noticed a difference between the two. I even went so far as to ditch my 3/4" line for that purpose and stick with the 5/8" as it is lighter to drag around.

Seems as though people are quick to vote, but do not answer the why part. Just because a lot of people may use 3/4" over 5/8", does not have me convinced that it is better. They use it because others said it was better, and then pass it along to others. My trailer came with 3/4" supply line, but there are many places where the fittings and the filter only have 1/2" orifices. Since many hose bibbs are 1/2" and 1/4", I do not feel that 3/4" is worth the hassle. I actually plan to ditch my 3/4" hose when it croaks, and put more pressure hose on that reel. I will then use 5/8" supply line, that is kept in the truck.

And finally someone else agrees with me. I have been saying this for quite some time and everyone always wants to bicker about it.

Try this, it is some pretty incredible stuff .www.bullfrogsunscreen.com/

Paul, Would you then agree that 3/4" hose is overkill for the typical 5gpm machine?

Dave, As you already know, you have some incredible and professional trucks. I like the reply of the Lexus guy. "Well, not that much" Classic.

Brick chimney, 24 feet tall, total of 130 sq ft and painted with latex. Here is my plan of attack. I have had pretty good luck in the past with latex and hot water, so of course I will try that first. As a back up, I have many paint strippers that should tear that latex apart, and a soda blaster. I am charging him a very pretty penny, as I have to deal with a 24' mess, water recovery is part of the job. Of course the chimney is surrounded by painted items that are not to be stripped, so extra caution is in order. Other than the items above, any suggestions on what I may want to bring as an alternative back up plan?