One Tough Pressure

Sounds good Ron, when are you gonna start???

Looks great Joel!!

Steel Eagle has a few that you may want to look at. The first two are floaters and are less than $500.00 each. The 12" is good for 4 gpm, and the 16" is good for 5 gpm. Both at 3000 psi. Next is the 24" which is what I use for both Res and Com work. Not sure what the max gpm is, but does fine for me @ 5.3 gpm. http://www.steeleagle.com/ProductCatalog/SS-LittleFloater.htm

I have not done any wood floors, but can not imagine why you would run from them. With what you are doing now, you are on the right track to do this also. Of course you need some more training and maybe a few more tools, but it is a service that can be added to compliment your current stuff. You may also want to look into Tile and Grout Cleaning, as this would also compliment your current status.

Several companies make a stripper in an aerosol can that will cling to give better dwell time. Should be able to find it at a Janitorial supply house. I have used Windex in the past, due to it's high Ammonia content, it worked well. Dwell time and Proper mixing of most strippers would also do a good job. My favorite is Potassium Hydroxide based strippers. Mixed right, it will not dry out so fast and you can leave on for extended dwell time. Do not be surprised if you need to do repeat applications. Always follow the directions and wear Safety gear.

Great Stuff, Thanks for sharing.

Reed, How true it is. My mom always knew the truth, before I had finished doing the wrong. Would have loved to share this with her. My wife wants to share it with some of her e-mail groups, would that be okay?

Fury also has a 24" to go along with that 16" & 11". I never mentioned size.Other than the whisper wash, anyone having a problem with casters?

http://www.ungerglobal.com/german/ger_pro_en/01d_window/01d2_squee.html

I would start with a Red pad, and then switch to Blue if needed. Both of these are used for Scrub and Recoat applications. Use a good neutral floor cleaner and rinse well.

Use a good quality sodium or potassium hydroxide stripper. Application will vary by manufacture, so follow directions on label and wear safety gear, as this is lethal stuff when not handled correctly. Make sure to rinse well. Mix ratios as described on label, as making it stronger or weaker than reccomended will really upset you when you have to start over. As far as wax goes, you can use acrylic liquid wax, which includes the sealer. What you need to look for is the SOLIDS content. Regardless of what the label says for the amount of coats, you want 100% solids on the floor. So lets say the wax you pick out is 25% solids. The label may say use two or three coats, but you really want 4 coats. Going over the 100% does not mean the floor will shine more, but the finish will hold up much better. When applying wax, make sure to allow the coats to dry well before putting on more, if it is dry to the touch, you can put on the next coat. Do not load up the wax near the wall and in corners, as this area does not see much traffic, so does not need to be thick. Go different directions with each coat, so you get a uniform finish, they call this crosshatching.

Seems as though everyone reccomends using 3/4" supply lines, but have you looked at most pump inlets, they are 1/2". On top of this a lot of people are using ball valves that restrict their 3/4" lines and do not even realize it. If you have any elbows in your plumbing then they also restrict water. Most swivels on hose reels are also only 1/2". I did a test today, using 5/8" hose with a 3/8" quick coupler attached. I was able to get 8 gpm. So basically what I am getting at is if the water is there, then you will get the water. All this hype regarding 3/4" lines and the truth is it really does not matter for the standard 5 to 6 gpm machine. What it does is add weight and cost to fittings. If someone has any comments and can convince me to change my mind, then fire away.

If you look at most hose bibbs, the orifice is only half inch., and sometimes only 1/4". You are only going to get as much water as the spigot will flow, regardless of hose size.

Has anyone ever tried to strip or clean VCT with a surface cleaner? I know to much heat will bring up the tiles, but is their an approved way to use a PW skid for this?

I was planning for just warm water and if that does not work, then some degreaser and run the SC over it again. Lots of grease, oil and tire tracks.

This particular floor is in my garage. I guess I will go ahead and test it to see what happens, since I do not care for it anyway.

Yes, Vinyl Composition Tile is what I am talking about. The drainage is not a problem, but wanted to know if anyone has done the PW thing on them. I know all to well the real way to do it and thought maybe it could be sped up a little.

I guess i will give it a try. Thank you

This item is a vacuum recovery unit, made of Stainless Steel, so I believe the casters are their to support the extra weight involved. I would like to find out what the problems are for people that use casters.

Chuck, What size tee are you using? I compared a 3/8" one to the zero nozzle that's needed for the inside, but it was to small and a 1/2" one seems so big, plus the weight.