Wood tux on new wood?

[ACSTravis 14]

I have heard that it is so that you can put WTW on new wood because of the high solids content. I am in the process of negotiating with a deck builder to seal all of his new decks. He is pretty sceptical about how exactly it works. So, I was kind've looking for some technical jargon to throw at him about how and why you can apply WTW to new wood.

Thanks a lot,

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Can't speak to WTW specifically but.. Although its been past practice to let some types of wood age a bit outdoors before sealing, most current wood care advice goes that it is best to get things stained and sealed the moment it is exposed to the elements to protect against dimensional changes. Some wood comes out the mill with a mild form of protection/glaze coat so surely that could be a factor on things.

[Tmrrptr 164]

Can't speak to WTW specifically but.. Although its been past practice to let some types of wood age a bit outdoors before sealing, most current wood care advice goes that it is best to get things stained and sealed the moment it is exposed to the elements to protect against dimensional changes. Some wood comes out the mill with a mild form of protection/glaze coat so surely that could be a factor on things.

I'd like to hear more about which products might have something applied at the mill... I can see where it might be a good idea to let mother nature work on the product for a bit, to open pores and such that may have been sealed off by the gazillion rpm planing knives in the mill... we'll see trex here, before ipe or hardwood decking. It's redwood here, and quality has just been dropping. . . What product would you feel is using an applied coating? r

[acegot 14]

If youre going to seal new wood you should still pw & condition, RE: citralic or borite for mill glaze removal. Bio-wash makes the borite mill glaze remover. The best sealer would be WTW cause alot of new boards are very wet & WTW as you know is moisture friendly. Thats what I use. Out here in Ca it is very important to seal them asap. The new growth Redwood & Cedar dry out to quick. Have seen 8-18 month old decks un treated look like 6-10 yr old decks. We usually end up sanding them, an unnecessary expense, but needed when neglected.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Rich,

In my mention of past practices of aging wood abit before finishing being outdated I was refering to practice of waitng months not weeks to finish PT. Days or weeks unfinished is fine and is, as you mention, a recommended thing for wood subjected to the mechanical mill glazing. It is also recommended for to allow some lumber yard treatments to evaporate. Can't find specific info on that right now but I know Wolman talks about it somewheres in their literature while going through their certification and product education.

As I understand it we have two or three things to worry about with new wood. Good old fashioned paraffin wax used during manufacture of PT, lumberyard treatment with preservatives, and mechanical mill glaze. I do not know how such conditions are placed upon the various areas of the country..Wouldn't doubt some portion of the talk below is Wolman tooting their horn and many lumberyard woods are raw..

"The Wolman technology extends beyond pressure-treated wood.

Wolman Wood Care Products is the industry leader in the protection of fresh cut

timber, supplying sawmills with special coatings for raw lumber. In fact, there is a

good chance you already have Wolman Products in your home now. Over 60%

of the sawmills in the United States and Canada use Wolman Products. Leading

window and door manufacturers apply Wolman millwork chemicals to strengthen and

stabilize the wood used in their products. And homeowners can enjoy the beauty and

protection that Wolman weatherproofing finishes give to their outdoor wood structures.

From start to finish, understanding the wood market is Wolman® Wood Care Products’

business and specialty."

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"Surface Preparation

Q: If my wood is new, why do I need to clean it?

A: Today's pressure-treated wood is made with more paraffin wax to protect it when it is stacked at the lumberyard. This additional wax results in a thicker waxy build-up on the surface. Cedar and Redwood species are often subject to a condition called "mill glaze", a burnished surface glaze that results after the fresh cut lumber is planed at the mill. The presence of these surface barriers prohibit a finish coating from properly penetrating the wood. Without proper penetration, exterior wood coatings cannot give optimum protection, and poor coating performance may result. Uneven finish appearance, premature fading or shortened water repellency life-span are common consequences that would normally not occur if a finish coating is properly absorbed. WOLMAN wood cleaners are specifically formulated to remove surface barriers from new wood, so that protective finishes can be applied immediately to prohibit any damage from water absorption, mildew growth and UV exposure. "

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"For New Wood: Prepare the Surface!

New wood installations may appear clean, free of contaminants and ready to

coat, but appearances can be deceiving! Just as in the restoration of old wood, it

is necessary to prepare the surface of the new wood before coating. Preparing the

surface involves cleaning the brand new, uncoated surface in order to open the

wood pores so that a coating can properly penetrate and adhere to the surface.

Also, some new wood species, such as Cedar and Redwood, can harbor an invisible

surface barrier called “mill glaze” that will impede the penetration of a top-coat.

Mill glaze appears as a burnished surface, and is often present on new Cedar lumber, a

result of the planing process it goes through at the lumber mill before shipping out to

the wholesaler or retailer. By cleaning the glazed surface, wood pores are unclogged

and opened, allowing for better coating penetration and adhesion, and ultimately

longer, better performance."

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