Wayne burner not burning

[Integrity Curb Appeal 64]

I have a Wayne oil burner on my hot water machine. I have electric going to the igniter, and the oil pump is working. I am pumping oil into the valve, but none is coming out of the valve. Would it be:

1. The valve, or power going to the valve? How can I test this?

2. The igniter. Does it have some kind of feature that will tell the valve not to release oil if there is some kind of issue?

Any help will be appreciated. I have 3 hot water jobs ready to go.

Scott

[John Orr 206]

I recently had a problem with my Wayne burner. It turned out to be the gasket in the oil/water separator. (The clear plastic cap on the bottom of the diesel fuel filter.) If there are any bubbles when the burner should be on, you have an air leak. There is an adjusting screw on the cap and it needs to be turned all the way out (down).

Hope this helps.

[Russ Johnson 141]

If you are getting fuel to the solenoid valve, but none comes through, it could be one of several things. Firstly, take the coil off the solenoid (remove the little nut and slide it up off the post. Get a magnet, start the machine, turn the burner on, and slide the magnet along the post on the valve. If it fires' the valve itself is ok. Next, open the ignitor. Find the wires to the solenoid. One should be bundled in with a wire fron the ignitor and a wire from the motor. The other wire should be attached to only one wire. Remove the single wire and bundle it with the other wire going to the ignitor and motor (not the same bundle as the first solenoid wire). Cap all connections, close the ignitor, start the machine, and turn on the burner. If it lights, all is well with the burner assembly. Rewire everything back where it was and close the ignitor.

Now we have to go after the switches. Pressure switch, flow switch, vac switch, high limit switch, and / or thermostat. Bypassing a switch involves disconnecting the wiring going to a switch and connecting the wires that the switch was connected to together. Do them one at a time, rewiring properly before continuing to the next. A thermostat is the easiest. If you have a jumper wire with alligator clips, just clip the wire between the terminals. After bypassing each switch, do a test fire until you trace it down.

Or drive to Louisville and see me...

[Hotwaterwizard 33]

***CAUTION***

If you hotwire the fuel solenoid ***DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRING THIS WAY***

It is very dangerous. the burner will stay lit even when you release the trigger.

This can cause a Steam-out condition.

Your Machine coils can blow up!!!

Your hoses can pop and burn you and put you in the hospital.

This is serious.

Before you get started make notes of the wiring and put them back where they were.

The easiest way to test the solenoid coil is to pull it off of the body and stick a

phllips screw driver thru the hole in the coil.

With the burner running and the trigger pulled the coil should hold the screw driver like a magnet.

When you release the trigger it should let go of the screw driver.

If it does not do this then you can look at the wiring.

[BULLDOG 14]

I've delt with oil burners for 17 yrs, they are messy and always breaking down.If you dont treat em with kid gloves, you will have problems, sooner than later. The last 3 years I've been using propane burners, haven't had a problem...yet. (knock on wood) I think propane is the only way to go, and right now fuel is cheaper too!

[Integrity Curb Appeal 64]

First off. thanks for all of your help. I appreciate it very much.

If you are getting fuel to the solenoid valve, but none comes through, it could be one of several things. Firstly, take the coil off the solenoid (remove the little nut and slide it up off the post. Get a magnet, start the machine, turn the burner on, and slide the magnet along the post on the valve. If it fires' the valve itself is ok.

In the photo, is it the top nut and cylinder I should remove?

Next, open the ignitor. Find the wires to the solenoid. One should be bundled in with a wire fron the ignitor and a wire from the motor. The other wire should be attached to only one wire. Remove the single wire and bundle it with the other wire going to the ignitor and motor (not the same bundle as the first solenoid wire). Cap all connections, close the ignitor, start the machine, and turn on the burner. If it lights, all is well with the burner assembly. Rewire everything back where it was and close the ignitor. .

I did this and my burner fired as long as it remained wired this way. I immedietly wired it back to the original configuration at the conclusion.

Now we have to go after the switches. Pressure switch, flow switch, vac switch, high limit switch, and / or thermostat. Bypassing a switch involves disconnecting the wiring going to a switch and connecting the wires that the switch was connected to together. Do them one at a time, rewiring properly before continuing to the next. A thermostat is the easiest. If you have a jumper wire with alligator clips, just clip the wire between the terminals. After bypassing each switch, do a test fire until you trace it down.

Or drive to Louisville and see me...

Can I use alligator clips on all connectors without disconnecting them?

[Integrity Curb Appeal 64]

Sorry, it did not upload the photo.

[Integrity Curb Appeal 64]

I can short this (temerature control/thermostat) out for a test?

[MMI Enterprises 289]

1. The valve, or power going to the valve? How can I test this?

2. The igniter. Does it have some kind of feature that will tell the valve not to release oil if there is some kind of issue?

Yes that pic seems to be showing a solinoid.

If you have a volt meter you can get into the solinoid wiring to see if it gets power when trigger pulled if you like.

There are different configurations/schematics for various makes of burners but generally both the igniter and the solinoid will not have power until a complete circuit makes it past your vacuum,flow, or pressure switch.

You really can't go wrong with having a meter handy for this.

Since the oil flowed through soliniod when you direct wired it seems to me your issue is farther back in the switches. Contacts and springs go bad in the vac switches, and reeds break in the others.

[Integrity Curb Appeal 64]

Based on if I have done everything correctly, when I removed the coil, I stuck in a brill bit, and it did not hold it. I used the bit because it was the same size as the valve cylinder. Does this sound as if I have done things correctly?

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Scott,

With your result here: "I did this and my burner fired as long as it remained wired this way. I immedietly wired it back to the original configuration at the conclusion." ..we can assume the solinoid works and allowed oil through to fire..right? If that is case ya got to find the switch not completing the circuit.

Use the following generic picture to weed things down.. when you rewired you bypassed the loop the circuit makes through the various items..As you can see switches are all series wired through theirselves (can be bypassed individually or as a group). The circuit..motors and all are considered parallel wired as a whole though as they all make one loop off power source..

ps. The pressure switch in picture could be either a pressure switch,flow switch, or vacuum based switch on your setup..simply connect their input/output wires together to bypass

[Integrity Curb Appeal 64]

Thanks everyone. It is fixed. I followed the steps Russ gave me early on and it led me to a pressure issue that was not enguaging the pressure switch.

Thanks again.

Scott

[Integrity Curb Appeal 64]

Scott,

With your result here: "I did this and my burner fired as long as it remained wired this way. I immedietly wired it back to the original configuration at the conclusion." ..we can assume the solinoid works and allowed oil through to fire..right? If that is case ya got to find the switch not completing the circuit.

Use the following generic picture to weed things down.. when you rewired you bypassed the loop the circuit makes through the various items..As you can see switches are all series wired through theirselves (can be bypassed individually or as a group). The circuit..motors and all are considered parallel wired as a whole though as they all make one loop off power source..

ps. The pressure switch in picture could be either a pressure switch,flow switch, or vacuum based switch on your setup..simply connect their input/output wires together to bypass

You are the man. I did just get it going, but it so happens that I did walk the curcuit the way it is listed here. I hope this page helps someone else that may have the same issue. Thanks for you time, effort and help.

Scott J

[MMI Enterprises 289]

You are the man. I did just get it going, but it so happens that I did walk the curcuit the way it is listed here. I hope this page helps someone else that may have the same issue. Thanks for you time, effort and help.

Scott J

With that said..I say thanx and happy washing to ya.. :)

Oh and here..I pass this link along for future visitors..Is John's archive of invaluable info: Hotwaterwizard

[Hotwaterwizard 33]

You know I drew that picture it is on my website.

Hotwaterwizard

Hotwaterwizard

Burner Wiring Easy.jpg Posted by Thehotwaterwizard on 8/23/2001, 24KB

And I thought nobody ever went to that site anymore.

Last Post on that board. 8/31/2006 9:32 PM

[Integrity Curb Appeal 64]

You know I drew that picture it is on my website.

Hotwaterwizard

Hotwaterwizard

Burner Wiring Easy.jpg Posted by Thehotwaterwizard on 8/23/2001, 24KB

And I thought nobody ever went to that site anymore.

Last Post on that board. 8/31/2006 9:32 PM

It seems as though people have downloaded the diagrams and saved them to their own folders for reference. Thanks for all the work you have put in on these diagrams. It is a wealth of knowledge.

Scott

[Hotwaterwizard 33]

Some things are just worth Saving.

They say a Picture is worth a Thousand words.