4running 14 Report post Posted February 20, 2008 Hello all! I would like to convert my Landa 700 VHP Propane washer to 220V for more gallons per minute, now that I have some bigger jobs at my new house for it to do. The propane burner on this unit should make this easy, as I have no blower motor, However it does use some sort of solenoid, and the machine does have a pressure switch to turn on the burner. I already have a 5hp 220V 56 frame motor, and have done the math for the pulley size on my belt driven General Pump. What else do I need to contend with? Can I turn up the pressure on the Burner for more heat? Or do I need a new orifice? Has any one else done this? I think this may be kinda fun, but I want it to be a pro conversion, not something that looks slapped together. Any ideas? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Russ Johnson 141 Report post Posted February 20, 2008 Hi, Kyle, you're at it again, I see...:D You can increase the fuel pressure for more heat, but I would use a temp gauge to keep it below 200*. If the burner is 24 volt controlled, you'll either have to rewire the transformer (if it can be done), or buy a new transformer. Does the machine have a rotary off-pump-burner switch? For 220 volts, all legs must "break" in the off position, where 120 volts only break the hot leg (usually black). It would be advisable to change the switch, too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
4running 14 Report post Posted February 21, 2008 I Know- It always seems like I am doing something goofy. When I moved to texas the movers did alot of damage to the machine, so I have about $700 to spend on this. It is a Rotary switch, and It should be easy to get ahold of as Landa built this machine also as a 220V. I am actaully in the dessert right now on a new deployment, seems I get almost no time at home these days! What does the transformer do? This machine uses a ignition switch rather than an autolight. in other words first you must light the pilot with a small button and a knob. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Russ Johnson 141 Report post Posted February 21, 2008 Does the machine have a combination gas valve on it? (pilot and main on positions on the knob). Either you need 24, 120 or 240 volts to open the main part of the valve, or it's got a "Powerpile" thermocouple that actually generates millivolts from the heat. If it's millivolt, you have no worries, otherwise you've got to make sure the valve gets the right voltage or it'll break. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
4running 14 Report post Posted February 21, 2008 Yes, it has the pilot and on position on the valve. I assume this will need to be replaced or re wired as you stated above. Illcheck it out! and continue to post. Kyle Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Russ Johnson 141 Report post Posted February 22, 2008 Look at the thermocouple. (The rod that sticks up into the pilot) If it has a copper tube on it running back to one screw in fitting on the main valve, then the valve is electrically activated. If it has 2 wires encased in a spiral wrapped metal jacket, and attaches to 2 screws on the main valve, it's a millivolt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
4running 14 Report post Posted March 6, 2008 Hi Guys! Just got back from my extended stay in the mojave tonight and my 6HP 240V 3450 motor was here waiting, and my pump is on its way. The pump I selected, is a HyPro 2359B-P. I am a little worried about the shaft size, given that most pumps have a 24mm and this one uses a 3/4 inch. but for $225 I think I did ok. I wanted to oversize the pump in order to run it slightly slower than its 1750 max and also to get everylast drop of water out of that 6hp motor. This HyPro pump should last me a good 20 years! I am hoping that no fabrication will be needed to adapt my unloader or to bolt the pump to the machine. Ill try to keep everyone updated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
4running 14 Report post Posted April 2, 2008 Ok- The machine is finished! It looks great, runs great, and I am VERY pleased with the results. I will have pictures posted by the end of the week. The heater doesn't work, and on my step down transformer, (from 240 to 110v) I keep blowing the 1 amp primary voltage fuses, so I am going to try a different amperage to see what happens. The valve on the gas valve shouldnt take more than 1 amp to open, but we'll have to see. Also I am on the GP website trying to find some good nozzles. once I figure out the nozzle size this machine will be golden! Kyle Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Russ Johnson 141 Report post Posted April 3, 2008 The heater doesn't work, and on my step down transformer, (from 240 to 110v) I keep blowing the 1 amp primary voltage fuses, so I am going to try a different amperage to see what happens. The valve on the gas valve shouldnt take more than 1 amp to open, but we'll have to see. If it's blowing instantly, there's something wrong. If you can, take a pic of the gas valve and one of the wiring in the main box. I'll see if I can figure out what went awry. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
4running 14 Report post Posted April 3, 2008 Russ- I figured it out........ DON'T LAUGH PLEASE! :) Ok, Remember on your post above you say I need to make sure that my power switch breaks both legs of the circuit for the motor? Well, with my volt meter I couldnt figure out why my transformer was getting 90V all the time and 240V with my pressure switch depressed. Heres what I did wrong..... THE SWITCH NEEDS TO BREAK BOTH LEGS OF THE CIRCUIT DUMMY! I needed to wire all saftey switches on the 115v side of the transformer if I want to only break one leg. GEEEZ........ Well I learned something valuable tonight........ Even though I was already told............ Kyle Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Russ Johnson 141 Report post Posted April 3, 2008 :applause: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
4running 14 Report post Posted April 4, 2008 We did talk about adding more heat, and although this machine still gets MORE than hot enough, for future reference I assume that the center black plastic nut on the regulator gets turned in order to increase propane pressure. Can this be done with out "sooting" up the burner? And if so which direction do I turn the large nut? CW or CCW when looking at it? I know propane is threaded in reverse but does this apply to the regulator? Kyle Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
4running 14 Report post Posted April 4, 2008 Heres the pics download them for greater detail! iDisk Public Folder (Graphite) If anyone has any questions about a voltage conversion project and its feasibility or approx. cost, please drop me a line and I can let you know what this project cost me and how long it took. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Russ Johnson 141 Report post Posted April 4, 2008 Depends on the regulator...some are clockwise, others counter...turn it a bit and see what the flame does. Gas fired machines have a neat ability to increase or decrease their own make-up air as needed. About the only things that will soot one up is the flame touching the coil or a stopped up chimney. If you have no stack, then that's one less thing to worry about. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
4running 14 Report post Posted April 4, 2008 You had also advised me to keep it below 200, so I will monitor the temp if I choose to turn it up in the future. Thanks Again Russ! I will most likely call tomorrow, as I need a few things! Kyle Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
