silver eagle - hot water eqipment question

[MichiganPowerWashing.com 14]

I found this picture here on GS . Can someone explain what's the stuff there ? I also have silver eagle .... but mine don't have most of this stuff ... made for China ? ;-) I'm talking about outlet and inlet of the coil. Do I missing some important safety features on mine ? Mine is open gun with no unloader on the pump , no regulators anywhere ... the simplest design I have ever saw ...

Maybe someone have user manual for ANY of silver eagle machines ? I'm trying to get one from manufacturer ... It's harder than to go to the mars ...

Thanks !

Edited October 21, 2008 by MichiganPowerWashing.com

[Doug T 19]

I do not have one, but they make both propane fired and diesel fired burners. You have one type and the pic is of the other type, maybe?

[MichiganPowerWashing.com 14]

I do not have one, but they make both propane fired and diesel fired burners. You have one type and the pic is of the other type, maybe?

I have single burner / propane / 12 V but same type like on the pic. My question is what I'm missing on mine . I have pressure hose going from pump to the coils and on the other side just quick connection to my pressure hose and gun ... that's it . I don't have any type of thermostat , pressure regulator , burst disc ... The only safety thing I have on the machine is pressure and thermal relief valve on the pump. Should I or can I install anything else ?

Thanks

Edited October 21, 2008 by MichiganPowerWashing.com

[HotShot 34]

I don't have any of that stuff either... :( Looks cool though.

[Jerry 24]

You guys deserve quality answers to the most important question in this industry..

How to make a heater safer, and more reliable.

Basically..

Temperature control switches... should be hermetically sealed... rated for wet conditions.

Adjustable versions typically seen on PW's are not rated for wet conditions, so they don't last.

Especially when they are used to turn on a H.V. igniter, on 12 volts DC.

They should be rated for 10 degrees over the temperature you plan on using...

IF your heater runs at 200 degr. in the summer time, use a 210.

Pressure Relief valves... should be on the inlet side of the heater...

If the coil's plugged with scale, the relief needs to react. Eh ?

It should NEVER be mounted up-side-down, as it fills with scale, and won't open when it needs to.

It should NEVER have less than a stainless steel ball, as the rubber ball version is cut, the first time pressure passes it.. You can't adjust it without destroying it !

A regulating relief valve, like the J.E Adams versions are WAY reliable for years and years.

Also, they are WAY more sensitive than a Pop-Off style relief.

I just wish I could get Adams to make 4, 5, 6, and 7000 psi versions... somebody will.

You should have a relief valve before, AND after a pressure-actuated unloader...

to protect the heater AND the pump. Eh ?

Flow Switches... are better than pressure switches...

We want the heater to go on when there is FLOW, not just trapped pressure.

But, the new TMT flow switch seen on the example Silver Eagle system is a device which is a little more difficult to troubleshoot, as a magnet doesn't affect it, and when they fail, they fail in the on position more often than off. I like the ST5 Flow switches best for up to 4000 psi, especially because they are easiest to troubleshoot, and they last for years. Another real important thing to know about pressure and flow switches... they should NEVER be used to turn on a Hi Voltage igniter...

The inductive reactance in start-up of the HV draws BIG current, like starting a motor... WAY too many machines are "eating" HV igniters on 12vDC. They require a power relay...

An automotive style 40 amp relay will last about 12 to 24 months.

The 70 amp version will last 4 to 7 years. You can expect 4 to 5 years of use on a HV igniter.

We've proved this, when we did the initial field testing for Beckett before they released them out in the industry... in the early 90's. We wrote the schematic in their Owners' manual that shows the 70 amp control relay.

You should also have "the perfect charging system" with BEEFY, CLEAN connections,

and a group 51 battery, or larger... NOT a garden tractor battery... they are WAY too wimpy.

The 12 volt burners can be very reliable when the above rules are followed. ...and SAFE !

One last thing about the example Silver Eagle system..

Those galvanized fittings on the inlet side of the pump have to go !

... they are gouing to constrict the flow, and send rust flakes in to the pump valves, and through the system eventually into the trigger-gun valve, or a spray nozzle.

Next machine you buy... Ask your local dealer for Long-Term-Low-Cost. Eh ?

Glad to help.

Jerry McMillen, President

www.PressureWasher.net

manufacturer of... Sirocco Performance Vacuums

and... BullDogPro Water Blasters.

call direct… 619-448-8111

Edited October 23, 2008 by Jerry
Oops I plugged again..

[MichiganPowerWashing.com 14]

Great and important tips . Thanks

You guys deserve quality answers to the most important question in this industry..

How to make a heater safer, and more reliable.

Basically..

Temperature control switches... should be hermetically sealed... rated for wet conditions.

Adjustable versions typically seen on PW's are not rated for wet conditions, so they don't last.

Especially when they are used to turn on a H.V. igniter, on 12 volts DC.

They should be rated for 10 degrees over the temperature you plan on using...

IF your heater runs at 200 degr. in the summer time, use a 210.

Pressure Relief valves... should be on the inlet side of the heater...

If the coil's plugged with scale, the relief needs to react. Eh ?

It should NEVER be mounted up-side-down, as it fills with scale, and won't open when it needs to.

It should NEVER have less than a stainless steel ball, as the rubber ball version is cut, the first time pressure passes it.. You can't adjust it without destroying it !

A regulating relief valve, like the J.E Adams versions are WAY reliable for years and years.

Also, they are WAY more sensitive than a Pop-Off style relief.

I just wish I could get Adams to make 4, 5, 6, and 7000 psi versions... somebody will.

You should have a relief valve before, AND after a pressure-actuated unloader...

to protect the heater AND the pump. Eh ?

Flow Switches... are better than pressure switches...

We want the heater to go on when there is FLOW, not just trapped pressure.

But, the new TMT flow switch seen on the example Silver Eagle system is a device which is a little more difficult to troubleshoot, as a magnet doesn't affect it, and when they fail, they fail in the on position more often than off. I like the ST5 Flow switches best for up to 4000 psi, especially because they are easiest to troubleshoot, and they last for years. Another real important thing to know about pressure and flow switches... they should NEVER be used to turn on a Hi Voltage igniter...

The inductive reactance in start-up of the HV draws BIG current, like starting a motor... WAY too many machines are "eating" HV igniters on 12vDC. They require a power relay...

An automotive style 40 amp relay will last about 12 to 24 months.

The 70 amp version will last 4 to 7 years. You can expect 4 to 5 years of use on a HV igniter.

We've proved this, when we did the initial field testing for Beckett before they released them out in the industry... in the early 90's. We wrote the schematic in their Owners' manual that shows the 70 amp control relay.

You should also have "the perfect charging system" with BEEFY, CLEAN connections,

and a group 51 battery, or larger... NOT a garden tractor battery... they are WAY too wimpy.

The 12 volt burners can be very reliable when the above rules are followed. ...and SAFE !

One last thing about the example Silver Eagle system..

Those galvanized fittings on the inlet side of the pump have to go !

... they are gouing to constrict the flow, and send rust flakes in to the pump valves, and through the system eventually into the trigger-gun valve, or a spray nozzle.

Next machine you buy... Ask your local dealer for Long-Term-Low-Cost. Eh ?

Glad to help.

Jerry McMillen, President

www.PressureWasher.net

manufacturer of... Sirocco Performance Vacuums

and... BullDogPro Water Blasters.

call direct… 619-448-8111