My self built trailer mount machine

[CBhaydare 14]

I have spent the past month designing and fabricating this machine. I had the trailer given to me it was a 16' I cut it down to 12', new fenders paint and deck. The machine is a 25hp Kohler, AR 4gpm @4000psi pump, Voltmaster 2800 watt generator,110volt AFG model Beckett burner 2.0gph nozzle, old Northstar coil, 225 gal tank. Still have to wire up my controls and plumb everything in, going tomorrow to have hoses made.

*Yes I am going to put a rain shield over vent hole on the coil, just haven't made it yet*:D

Let me know what you guy's think.

Thanks

Edited May 30, 2010 by CBhaydare

[CBhaydare 14]

So much for having hoses made................ I forgot it was Memorial Day...:juggle:

Come on some one leave me some feed back please, questions, comments, suggestions, anything...? Seems like I have the plague or something when I post, people seem to shy away from them. :crying:... lol

[offduty 25]

Your pump needs to be even with your water feed. Why are you using a 25 hp for that small of a pump? Just curious. I use the same motors for 8 gpm. If the ethanol starts vapor locking in your fuel pump call me and I will talk you thru it.

[CBhaydare 14]

Your pump needs to be even with your water feed.

That sucks.... lol I asked a tech at a Landa shop and he said that it should be fine that these pumps pull a vacuum, I wasn't to sure about it myself tho, I don't want to starve my pump and burn it up. lowering the frame is out, raising the tank is not a good thing as the center of gravity will be to high on the trailer. What about adding a 5gpm flowjet pump to feed it? I only have about 3ft of hose and fittings from my tank to the pump and it is 3/4" hose with about 10" of rise to the pump.

Why are you using a 25 hp for that small of a pump? Just curious. I use the same motors for 8 gpm.

1st reason I already had this engine it was off of an old carpet cleaning machine I bought. I wanted to use the Tuthill blower also for a reclaim system, but after doing the formulas and research the 25hp wasn't enough to run everything.

PSI x GPM/1460 x 1.30 = 14.25HP

Then I found out that there was some big lawsuit or some kind of issue with small engine manufacturers, over rating the amount of HP that their engines actually put out. So I found another formula to be safe.

PSI x GPM/1460 x 1.8 = 19.73HP. So pretty much just 20hp required to run to pump safely, maybe overkill but better safe than sorry, and 5hp to power my generator.

If the ethanol starts vapor locking in your fuel pump call me and I will talk you thru it.

Yea, I don't know why we need corn in our gasoline? lol I have seen what this stuff will do if it sits in a old bowl style needle and seat carburetor. May have to give you a call on that if I have problems with it.

thanks for the input man.

Brian

Edited June 1, 2010 by CBhaydare

[Cajun Cleanin 64]

I think the pump will feed once the level in the tank reaches over the pump.it looks like your a pretty handy guy tp build all that.

I think the old chevy hub caps really set it off.hahahahaha

[CBhaydare 14]

I think the pump will feed once the level in the tank reaches over the pump.it looks like your a pretty handy guy tp build all that.

I think the old chevy hub caps really set it off.hahahahaha

Thank you. Yea those caps were on the trailer when i got it, I'm surprised all 4 were still there.

[Dave O 15]

Your belt driven pump will suck that tank dry where it is at, and will not have a problem.

Our trailer units have always sucked 2 large tanks close to dry

So in another words it is fine

I do not like that unloader on the side of the pump. Alot of weight on the pump head with vibration from hoses, unloader, and travel, or even someone smacking it. Put it on a block mounted on the machine base

Run your bypass to the top of the tank neck with nipple, and also you feed hose to top with a hudson float valve. Hudson takes the slosh of water better if traveling full.

Run your feed from the bottom of the tank (You should have a drain there) and then to you pump with a 3 way ball valve for draining tank when needed.

I also do not like the straps on the tank. Chemicals and sun may wear them down , so you should use the horseshe clamps around the tank.

Point that burner up and put a cap on it within the specs to keep the burner breathing. This will keep rain our of it, and it wont be pointing at your vehicle heating things up in the back.

Also point the motor exhaust away from that battery box. They get hot and will melt things

[FullBlast 14]

Man I must say you made yourself a nice system there.

Yes I do beleive that the pump will pump it like it is but I don't think I would do it that way. Once you get it primed it will go, but lets say you happen to run out of water when you are 5 minutes from being done with the job, I think you will have a lil time of it getting it primed back up untill the water level gets back up there a lil more, and who wants to wait around that long when you are ready to pack it up??

Why is dropping it down out of reason?? It looks like you have a fuel tank down there, but that can be moved to a different place and can use a different tank if you want.

Just a thught!! Looks good tho.

P.S. I would cycle the water back to the tank as was mentioned, I learned the hard way...

[CBhaydare 14]

Thanks to everyone for the input and advice. Some of the things that were said I already had in mind just haven't got to it yet. Finances are low right now, haven't had work in like 2 weeks, the vent-hood installation around here isn't so good right now due to the economy. I have to replace a fan tomorrow so I have a little coming in... Hope to make up on the down time of no installs with cleaning all the ones I have installed, have plenty of customers waiting on me.

The exhaust on the engine will be extended and out the top, I'm not keeping the straps on the tank, don't trust them due to dry rot, just a temporary fix for now. I have a mounting block for the unloader and wanted it remote mounted to begin with. As for the exhaust port on the burner, yes I'm going to extend it up and cover it, I don't want the paint cooked off my tailgate.. lol

Yes the bypass is going back into the tank.