Water Tank

[Howard 50]

I've been looking at hooking up a water tank to my washer. I have a 3500 4GPM AR pump, hot water unit. I know the pump will pull water from the tank, but are there any other tricks or, "oh by the ways" I should know about?

Thanks

Howard

[Jon 533]

Run your pump in by-pass and the water back to the tank.

Just don't do it if using up or down stream.

Jon

[Howard 50]

Originally posted by Jon

Run your pump in by-pass and the water back to the tank.

Just don't do it if using up or down stream.

Jon

Uh?

What do ya mean run pump in bypass?

What I "planned to do was plumb the tank into the pump inlet, with a "Y" shutoff so when I didn't need the tank I could just hook up the water hose.

Am I thinking wrong on this one?

[ron p 500]

couple of things to think about.

install a water filter

install a water softener

install a Y and hook up a 12 volt shur-flo pump. [wash down pump]. This gives you a way to rinse,wash your face,fill bucket's,empty the tank.

Install a gated Y before the tank with one side going to the tank and one to your wash unit. On some jobs where you effecient water supply . You can put a rinse aid in the tank and wash with reg ol tap water.[fleet washing,window's,ect...] Then switch to the tank water that could have a wax in it or rinse aid.

If your wash unit has a small flot tank allready, dont hook the big tank to the small tank, it wont pull the water. Another gated Y is used to direct that water.

Install a check valve in the supply line comeing off the tank. You dont want air in that line, it will catavite your pump[break the ceramic seat's]

If you dont use UPSTREAM then take the line off the return side of the unloader and run it back to the supply tank.[you need a second hole in the tank with a hose barb]

this way you can run your wash unit in bypass all day and never heat-up the pump. Your unloader will last a lot longer as will your pump.

If you do use UPSTREAM you will need a Y in the return line with a valve. This way you can choose where the return water goes.

Also i would install a HUDSON float valve in the tank so you dont worry about overfilling it.

Lastly it is hard to find true 3/4 inc fittings. [they have 3/4 threads but the internals are reduced to a much smaller size]

I used home depot fittings to make my own true 3/4 valves and Y's.

I also have a filter before the first Y in my system to catch the grit from the garden hose.

I wish i had a cam .

so here it goes.

1-garden hose to filter

2-filter to Y

3-one side of y goes to large tank

4-other side goes to small float tank

5-skip 2,3,4 if you dont have a small float tank

6-connect hose to float valve that's installed in the main tank

7-output hose at bottom of tank goes to second filter

8-from filter to check valve

9-check valve to gated Y

10- one side of Y goes to wash unit

11- other side of the Y goes to a 12 volt washdown pump.

13-from outflow side of 12 volt pump to a hose reel[cheap home depot type]

14- take off return hose from unloader and run longer hose back to the tank.

15-if needed install a gated Y for diverting water back to unloader if you need to use upstreamer.

I hope this help's.

[Howard 50]

Thanks, that helps alot, the more I thought about it the more I thought that was what Jon had said about the bypass.

I have to sit down and draw out everything you said, I know it'll be easier than it sounds.

:)

Thanks

[ron p 500]

in the plumbing dept of home depot.

Look for the red and white pvc valves that have threaded ends[female]

then where the underground sprinkler parts are you will find the threaded hose barbs[male] They are gray.

The Y's are really T'S[also in the spinkler fittings section.]

Get a lot of hose clamp's and teflon tape.

They also sell the hose but my home depot did away with the bulk box's:mad:

I used the 3/4 hose and am pulling 10 gpm out ot it with no problems.

5 gpm to wash unit and helper is rineing trucks with the 5 gpm 12 volt.

p.s.

i have a very large 12volt ind truck battery just to power that 12 volt pump.

I am buying a used 5 gpm wash unit to replace the 12 volt for rinseing. I charge the batter with a battery charger at the end of the day.

Jon- your check is going out friday, i did'nt forget you.

thanks again

[ron p 500]

if you plumb it the way i said jon you can run both upstream and downstream but it cant be left running in bypass for long when upstreaming.

oward now that you have the plumbing of the supply water in order, how meney chems do you use when you downstream or upstream?

I have 5 plus the x-jet and sure-flo pump.

When do you want to get into that?

Are you happy with just changing the line from bucket to bucket?

I was at first but it get's old,fast.

I now use 5 20 gal barrells and 2 for chems that i put in 5 gal buckets for use with the x-jet.

[Howard 50]

For now I'm happy changing the line from bucket to bucket. Then use buckets with the x-jet. I usually use minimum of 2 chemicals when I up stream 3 if I apply wax, then one more for the x-jet.

[paul-uk 500]

why dont you buy one of these credit size digital cameras..they take good enough pictures close up and rigs..$30-40 will get you one.....till you want a better one.

ps..they are cheaper on ebay!!!!!!

cheers paul.

[Jon 533]

Ron did I mention 100% daily interest???? Thanks I shall look for it in a few days.

Howard here is a not to good picture of my by-pass valve, look close and you will the top of the handle facing down,(red hose coming out of 3way ball valve) very seldom do I ever run it normal, I would say 99% it is as you see it, in by-pass back to my tank. Can run for hours and hours without fear of the pump over heating.

Also you can see the white filter going into the pump, it has since been moved as I have made changes to my setup.

If you want more pictures or better ones let me know and I will try to take them for you.

Jon

[bulletproof 14]

anyone know where I can get a schematic on how to run the pump like how it is in the picture?:confused:

[ron p 500]

has not been around lately. He would draw you one in a heartbeat.

You prob. dont really need a pic. because very few contractors use UPSTREAM chems.

If you dont use chems before the pump and coil[upstream] you dont need all those valves.

just remove the short jumper hose from the unloader and put a longer hose on the outflow back to your supply tank.

You see that short hose recirculates that pint or two[?] of water over and over and it get's hotter and hotter when left in bypass.

When hooked to a tank it recircluates the volume of the tank water and stay's much cooler.

unless you are into fleetwashing you rearly ever need to upstream[high pressure chem]

[Littlefield 65]

Just as an aside, you may not be able to run your pump in bypass mode. I wanted to do so, but the cheaper unloaders dont have a jumper hose, its all self contained.

I will be upgrading to flow actuated unloaders that will allow bypass into tank soon.

[Howard 50]

Jon Ron P

Thanks loads for the info,

Ron I printed out your instructions and I'm currently studying them.

Jon thanks for the picture and yes if its not too much trouble I would appreciate more pictures. Thanks as well for the info you emailed to me.

Rich Yes my unloader has a bypass so that isn't a problem. I'm just trying to get the right procedures so I don't have to buy another pump to try it again.

[ron p 500]

Howard from another bbs takes this to the exstream.

On his small unit's,the take the unit to the surface type, he installs a valve in the bypass hose and let's the water flow out by a certian amount. Just enuff so the unloader is not kicking on and off but flows out enuff to keep enuff freash water flowing in the pump head to keep it cool enuff to let it run in bypass all day.

You could just remove the return side and let it all flow out onto the ground.

[Aplus 525]

If you're not sure which hoses needs to be diverted, look for the one coming off the unloader, and going to the pump. It will be connected with hose clamps, because it is not high pressure.

All other hoses will be connected with high pressure machined crimps. Don't touch these.