Two questions about cedar (deck and planters)

[Dario 0]

Hi all, 

 

New here and have the typical "what to do with my deck?" question. 

 

I have a small cedar deck (about 300 sq ft) that was painted. I stripped of the paint and then sanded the deck until it looked consistent all the way around. This is clear cedar - that's all I know about it. Tried reading up on the best way to stain/protect and see way too many opinions. I see that many people recommend a sodium percarbonate cleaner followed by a pH balance/brightener (Cabot's?). Do i need to do this? The deck got sanded about a month ago.

 

I have no problem doing work and don't want to cut corners - I have the time to do it right. I'm ok spending money on good quality finishes. And I'm fine reapplying it every year if needed. I live in Portland, OR so the deck will be wet 8 months out of the year. I want a semi-transparent finish. Don't care if it's water or oil based. 

 

While I've got you... I'm building some cedar planter boxes that will have veggies in them. Is there anything I can use on the outside of the planter boxes to keep them looking nicer? Or is there nothing I can to that is food safe? I considered an oil (mineral or linseed) but see that these can lead to all kids of problems when used outside. 

 

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

I have moved your post to the DIY area, since you appear to be a homeowner.

 

Good luck with your project.

 

Beth

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Hi all, 

 

New here and have the typical "what to do with my deck?" question. 

 

I have a small cedar deck (about 300 sq ft) that was painted. I stripped of the paint and then sanded the deck until it looked consistent all the way around. This is clear cedar - that's all I know about it. Tried reading up on the best way to stain/protect and see way too many opinions. I see that many people recommend a sodium percarbonate cleaner followed by a pH balance/brightener (Cabot's?). Do i need to do this? The deck got sanded about a month ago.

 

I have no problem doing work and don't want to cut corners - I have the time to do it right. I'm ok spending money on good quality finishes. And I'm fine reapplying it every year if needed. I live in Portland, OR so the deck will be wet 8 months out of the year. I want a semi-transparent finish. Don't care if it's water or oil based. 

 

While I've got you... I'm building some cedar planter boxes that will have veggies in them. Is there anything I can use on the outside of the planter boxes to keep them looking nicer? Or is there nothing I can to that is food safe? I considered an oil (mineral or linseed) but see that these can lead to all kids of problems when used outside. 

In order to answer, I have some questions for you to consider in relevance.

Is the deck low to the ground or higher up (2' high +)?

Which direction is it facing? (Reason is to consider stain type and environment.)

Do you have a lot of shade tree's?

Are there any water features near to the deck, a hot tub on or nearby, or pool? (humidity source)

Does your climate have any extended dry times? (month or more at a spell)

 

For the planter boxes, They would be best if they were sealed throughout and the end grain cuts capped with an end grain sealer.

The design should have slatted bottoms to allow water to drain quickly and the boxes themselves holding the soil (in my opinion) should be in

a liner the box is built to accomodate.

This prevents the soil from catalizing with the minerals and reacting to degrade the wood. Ever see planter rings on a deck?

This is what I am talking about. The soil is rich in minerals and once water is added along with the pH of the soil, brings about a catalization which begins

to break down the wood and cause it to rot.

 

Many designs forego the liner for aesthetics and cost reasons. Your call.

 

Meanwhile, the answers to my initial questions will help to determine which stain base (Oil or Acrylic) would give you the best performance and set expectations for maintenance.

I have a day in the office today and can answer your question if you are able to respond soon. Otherwise, it may be later towards the weekend when I get my next chance to respond due to

a log home we are beginning which involves travel that takes up my office time.

 

Rod

Rod

 

 

[Dario 0]

I have moved your post to the DIY area, since you appear to be a homeowner.

 

Good luck with your project.

 

Beth

Thanks Beth. My mistake.  :orange:

[Dario 0]

In order to answer, I have some questions for you to consider in relevance.

Is the deck low to the ground or higher up (2' high +)?

Which direction is it facing? (Reason is to consider stain type and environment.)

Do you have a lot of shade tree's?

Are there any water features near to the deck, a hot tub on or nearby, or pool? (humidity source)

Does your climate have any extended dry times? (month or more at a spell)

 

For the planter boxes, They would be best if they were sealed throughout and the end grain cuts capped with an end grain sealer.

The design should have slatted bottoms to allow water to drain quickly and the boxes themselves holding the soil (in my opinion) should be in

a liner the box is built to accomodate.

This prevents the soil from catalizing with the minerals and reacting to degrade the wood. Ever see planter rings on a deck?

This is what I am talking about. The soil is rich in minerals and once water is added along with the pH of the soil, brings about a catalization which begins

to break down the wood and cause it to rot.

 

Many designs forego the liner for aesthetics and cost reasons. Your call.

 

Meanwhile, the answers to my initial questions will help to determine which stain base (Oil or Acrylic) would give you the best performance and set expectations for maintenance.

I have a day in the office today and can answer your question if you are able to respond soon. Otherwise, it may be later towards the weekend when I get my next chance to respond due to

a log home we are beginning which involves travel that takes up my office time.

 

Rod

Rod

Deck is off the ground about 2'. It was pretty well covered up on the bottom with skirting, but I removed all that and will replace it with open steps that run the length. There will be pretty airflow under the deck from now on. 

 

The deck faces North. It gets heavy morning and afternoon sun. No shade trees to help it. No water or other features on the deck. Summer tends to be pretty dry here, but it's very moderate compared to the rest of the county. It'll be wet for 8 months and get sun most of the other 4. 

Re the planters, they have no bottom. I'm putting right on the ground. I'll take some metal fabric to the bottom to keep animals out. But they'll be free draining. Good idea on sealing the end cuts. However I'm making these with vertical rather than horizontal slats, so I have a lot of end cuts on the ground. I'd need to be sure any sealer would not be toxic. (Hmmm... maybe I want to run a 2x4 across the bottom to keep those end cuts out of the dirt. Or use bricks or other material to support the planters(?). 

I could use a liner but was thinking not because I wanted to give the plants as much room for roots as possible. I was also concerned that water trapped between the liner and the wood would cause issues. And lastly, it rains a lot here - we get about 40". If I put in a liner I'll have to cover them for 8 months or I'll have a bathtub. 

 

Thanks much for the feedback. 

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

An oil based product would best suit the environment.

 

Rod

[bloodysafety 0]

I agree with rod on the oil based products as far as the moisture is concerned (im in washington); since the end grains will be in direct ground contact I reccomend and use copper. Buy copper slug tape and wrap the end grain with it secure it with copper nails. Copper does not rust, kills some types of fungus and repels slugs. It might look pleasing to you to do this on all the seams and tops. If you are concerned about enviromental protection use something whose oil base is linseed or tung...stay away from petroleum. Tung oil is more durable than linseed but I have yet to see it pigmented.

 

I also wouldnt worry about a liner, just oil the inside of the pot really well, multiple coats is ideal. If you Really really want to maximize root mass without using cloth, you will need to drill a bazillion small holes in the side walls. These holes provide more gas exchange and cause whats called air pruning of the root tips which results in more roots. I'd go in depth with it but this aint a growing forum ;)

[bloodysafety 0]

that last post was mostly for the planters if you couldnt tell ;)