Paul B. 523 Report post Posted April 21, 2003 What kinds of chemicals do you keep in your vehicle for testing stains for an estimate. My truck is a chemical warehouse and contains the following: Sodium Hypochlorite Simple Green Crete Clean Plus Krud Kutter White Scum Remover Goof Off (2) Sodium Metasillicate based cleaners (2) Potassium Hydroxide based cleaners (2) Sodium Hydroxide based cleaners The Works TSP Gutter Zap Ferrous Stain Remover White Ox Oxalic Acid Citric Acid Citralic Acid Detergent 600 Vana-Trol Glass De-Etch Muriatic Acid SuperKlean D'limonene Bacardi 151 Pain thinner Xylene Denatured Alcohol Lacquer thinner Jack Daniels Mineral Spirits Paint thinner SafeStrip MEK HD-80 EFC-38 Bix Tuff-Job Dad's DeckStrip A&L SuperStrip I do need a bigger truck and I do carry a decoder ring (data base) to help me remember what works well on what (my short term memory has always been a problem, but I never forget a face). I visit stores reqularly and get specials from time to time. At Home Depot I purchased 10 gallons of MEK for $1 per gallon along with 10 quarts of Xylene for $0.10 per quart (dented cans). At Sears last week I just purchased about 20 cans of Wolman's Deck and Fence Cleaner/Brightener for $1.97 per 2.25# container (normally priced at $14.95 each). I have all my neighbors, friends, workers and relatives calling me when they discover a deal. Nice to have spotters out there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted April 21, 2003 On the Goof Off, we prefer the original kind. The water based isn't as effective on FRP glue. Some very interesting ingredients...er...um...things on that list... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul B. 523 Report post Posted April 21, 2003 I suppose some of those chemicals can also be in the first aid kit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul B. 523 Report post Posted April 21, 2003 By the way, What has worked best for you folks to remove oxidized paint runs from brick surface? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dk34 14 Report post Posted April 21, 2003 Diedrich 101 WN Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul B. 523 Report post Posted April 27, 2003 dk34, I'm not doubting what you are saying but when I talked to the product tech at Diedrich, he said he would not recommend that but said the 101 Restoration is the product that would do the job for me. The 101 contains Hydrofluoric acid which scares the you know what out of me because you may not feel the pain for 24-48 hrs later and the pain can be very disproportionate to the size of the burn (small burn spot, severe pain). In the Prosoco line EK Restoration Cleaner (jell) works well (rather pricey at $131 per 5 gallons) but is safer to handle as it contains ammonium bifluoride and the Light Duty Restoration Cleaner (also a jell, but contains less than 1% hydrofluoric acid). I was wondering if anyone has had success on oxidized paint stains on brick with: HD-80 EFC-38 Citralic Acid or another product???? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ParadiseProWash 14 Report post Posted April 27, 2003 If you use enough of the Jack it wont matter LOL:) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul B. 523 Report post Posted June 4, 2003 By the way, I tested close to 20 different products on paint oxidization and lime runs on brick and I am staying with the Prosoco products. I really like the jell products even though they have to be rolled on. With rolling, the product is actually very cost effective and provides the dwell time needed in some cases. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aplus 525 Report post Posted June 6, 2003 I think the jell would be a lot safer to roll on as opposed to spraying chems. Paul, Do you wear some kind of Tyvek suit to protect yourself? Can you share the precautions you take, just so everyone understands how they should equip themselves? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul B. 523 Report post Posted June 6, 2003 Poly rain gear would be most appropriate along with eye protection respirator and gloves. The EK Restoration Cleaner is fairly neutral in PH (5.5) so a hat, faceshield/goggles (avoid ones with tiny breather holes in top), long sleeve shirt and gloves are adequate. With the jells, respiratory protection is not necessary (as long as you keep your head out of the bucket). When spraying acid based liquids, I would highly recommend respiratory protection! We keep a bucket of clean water and rags near by for cool-off and skin rinsing purposes all the time. When working with acids (even while wearing eye protection) there is some minor risk of getting the chemical in your eyes, so havinging an eye rinse kit is highly recommended. The KEY for me is long term protection. A single exposure may or may not impact your health if unprotected (how lucky do you feel?), however, continued exposure will have negative health impacts if proper protection is not used. I would also recommend yearly health screening/check-ups. Remember: Safety First, and Make IT Last! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
