Help with bid

[flimmy 14]

I stopped at this real estate office to drop off some bus. cards and a flyer. While I was talking to the agent she told me that the owner of the building was looking at getting the it cleaned and stained. So I took some measurements and pic's. I came up with 2600 sq ft of siding and deck. It was never stained before. This is my first paying wood job so I am looking at what to price this at. I would love to get the job because it is on a major road right near the entrance to a development that is mostly wooded and has alot of potental customers ( log and wood sided homes). btw I do have a friend that is in the painting bus. that will help me on the staining.

Thanks,

Scott

[seymore 90]

My bid for a job like that would be around 3-4K clean and stain. :cool:

[PressurePros 248]

With my new lowball pricing tier I come up with $400. I will use "five minute fence" to seal it and apply it with my garden hose. Just playing. Can you remove all the signage?

[seymore 90]

With my new lowball pricing tier I come up with $400. I will use "five minute fence" to seal it and apply it with my garden hose. Just playing. Can you remove all the signage?

That's tooo :rotfl: FUNNY!!....:rotfl: Pros...... :rotfl: :lgsideway

That job looks pretty easy after you get it preped with plastic.

[flimmy 14]

With my new lowball pricing tier I come up with $400. I will use "five minute fence" to seal it and apply it with my garden hose. Just playing. Can you remove all the signage?

Yep , signs are only held on with drywall screws or hex head lags. Cordless drill should pull them out easy.

[flimmy 14]

Thanks for the reply Shane

[seymore 90]

NO prob Scott hope you get the job. :cool:

[seymore 90]

Hey Scott i was just curious to what stain you would be planning on using for this cedar office?

[flimmy 14]

Ready Seal or Woodscapes. Bob at Pressure Tek suggested Ready Seal. I am going to clean it with F-10 and nuetralize and brighten with F-8.

What would you suggest ?

[seymore 90]

Well i would stay away from Deckscapes especially that oil base it's veggie oil.You are just asking for mildew problems with that type of oil base.The water base you really want to stay away from cause it doesn't keep the wood moist and it will dry up fast.

You want to stay with a penetrating parafin oil base stain.Also stay away from film forming products.

I've never used Ready Seal but there are a lot of guys that have good luck with it.The colors look good and natural but it's a little light pigment wise for me.I live in a pretty HOT climate here in Texas and lighter pigmented stains don't hold up for the 2 yrs for decks.

I myself have only used Baker's Gray Away wood seal and have been using it for over 10 yrs.It's been a great stain to work with easy to apply and my cutomers love the color tones.It's also reasonably priced and you get good sqft. per gallon numbers so you are able to make good $$.It's also has been field tested by the Texas Forest Service and has great results. :cool:

I would test an area on the building first with a cleaner not a stripper and see how well it cleans up.If you can help from not having to use a stripper it would be good for the wood.You won't get to much fuzzies if you don't use a stripper.

The biulding doesn't look in that bad of shape it should clean up pretty easy

I only use my stripper mix and oxalic mix i make myself and a bleach/soap mixture for all my cleaning.

[Aplus 525]

The bad thing about Ready Seal is you'll likely need two coats, especially since that siding is probably as dry as a popcorn fart.

I can't tell what type of business it is, but for a good period of time, you'll probably have to cover up the entrances with plastic long enough to apply two coats of stain.

Plus don't forget that during the stripping process, you will want to keep the parking area clear, and be responsible for where the runoff goes. You wouldn't want sodium hydroxide laced runoff puddling around where customers could step in it, or have the runoff go to the storm drains.

[flimmy 14]

Shane , I don't really have to worry about fuzzing. It's more of a rough cut siding , not very smooth. I am betting it was bought from one of the local lumber companies , there is one 1/4 mile away and 2 more within 20 min.

Tony , it's a real estate agent , it has a gravel lot ( no drains) , and yes it is dry. I was planning on doing the cleaning when they are closed along with the staining of the front. The rest can be done when they are open.

Beth or Rod , what stain would you suggest ? You guys are not too far away and have the similar climate. Also this building is located on top of the mountain and does see alittle harsher weather in the winter. It can be snowing there and raining were I live 20 min.'s away.

Thanks

[PLD 14]

dry as a popcorn fart.

Coming from a southerner who uses his share of colloquialisms this is definitely a new one. And very funny!

[seymore 90]

Shane , I don't really have to worry about fuzzing. It's more of a rough cut siding , not very smooth.

Scott

I mostly work on rough sawn cedar and it can get fuzzy after stripping and P/washing.

The "greying"dead wood fibers on the cedar will cause it to look furry if not all removed.

I've seen some rough cedar get fuzzy and some not get fuzzy.The times that had no furring was when i used the least harsh chems with little pressure.

Tony you killing me over here.. popcorn fart..:rotfl:

[PressurePros 248]

Shane what would you do in the event you ended up with major furring? Do you take it off?