tannin marks

[ron p 500]

from nail's in cedar.

Black streak's by nail head's on floor.

Is sanding the only way to remove them?

This is my first sikken's coated cedar deck.

Hard time with spindal's

Am going to return with rubber gloves, hd80, scotch brite pads,

and windex bottle's

Spindel's are only 1 inc apart and i am having a hard time getting between them.

Im taking a butt kicking because I DID'NT TEST FIRST.

DUMBA$$ i am.

I stripped it 3 times, i'll never use hd80 on a cold cloudy day again for sikken's.

Full strangth,30 min dwell.

Man that hd80 sure makes that old finnish SLIPPERY as it eat's at it.

[Paul B. 523]

Ron,

I'm not sure if Citralic will work on the nail head streaks, I know Oxalic will.

Sodium Hydroxide is slick (it's a distinguishing feature of a strong alkalyn vs. acids). It will dry out your hands (removes all oils), shrivel them up and makes them shiny.

This is exatly the reason I purchased all the M.E.K. that Home Depot had for $1 a gallon.

Also, I work on the cost averaging principle. By the week, by the month, by the year. It's too difficult to make good money on every job.

Stay patient and Good Luck!

[ron p 500]

i think it was the citric that might have caused it.

i'll try the oxalic.

[Aplus 525]

Ron,

Sikkens is one of the toughest stains to remove. I've had occasions where HD80 will not remove it well, even when applied heavily and allowed to dwell for extended times and kept wet with more HD80.

I always tell customers upfront that the Sikkens may not completely come off, and it's best to evaluate until after the stripping.

I know Beth says they have no problems with Sikkens removal, but I have not seen that yet.

The citric did not cause the nail stains. They were already there, but you couldn't see them when the deck was dirty. Oxalic is the best for removing nail stains, or rust stains in general.

[ron p 500]

oxalic fixed the tannin marks.

Still have to hand sand about %20 of the spindals.

Went through about 20 scotchbrite pad's and strippered it 3 times.

Deck never see's direct sunlight.

What finnish would you use?

sikkins was still good, but turned black.

I want something re-coatable, without stripping.

I dont want to use penofin on this deck.

Maybe CWF-UV?

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Tony,

I'm beginning to wonder if climate has anything to do with the effectivness of a product on a sealer/stain, or on how well the product adhears? We have been able to get over 95% of Cetol Dek off without any problems here. But if you are not seeing it there, it makes me wonder about other factors other than dwell time or keeping it wet. Dunno what to tell you. I'll ask Rod what he thinks.

Beth

[Aplus 525]

Ron,

ReadySeal is great for maintainability. Not sure about Wood Tux, Beth can answer that.

Forget about the CWF-UV, that's a finish you and your customer will regret. It holds up very poorly.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Wood Tux is easy to maintain too. :)

Beth

[Paul B. 523]

This is my third try before I have to put my fat fingers on a diet - keep mashing a button that keeps erasing everything (I know... Type it in word and cut & paste), blah, blah, blah..

Any time you have a shady situation (same as with a house) the door is open for mold, mildew and moss. The moisture can not dry.

The owners need to keep the leaves, branches, dirt, debris and standing water off the surface. Several cleanings are also in order, be it the owners or contract a pro. I would say at least in the spring and fall and keep a close eye on it inbetween.

Whatever product you choose, consider adding mildewcide in addition to what is already in the product.

If it was my (shady) deck, I would consider a Cabot solid with urethane. A primer coat and two top coats. Same cleaning and maintenance requirements, but your stripping would be minimized in frequency and with a solid, not all would have to come off.

Some food for thought.

[ron p 500]

Went back to check on the deck.

All the black streak's are back. Crap!

This deck is going to kill me.

Now i have to buy a detail sander to get the top inc and a half of every spindle.

Beth, do you have a pic of the light brown over cedar[wood-tux]?

What is the re-coatability of wood-tux?

If i ordered it friday, would i get it by wed?

5 pails-free ship? Can i mix colors to get my 5 gal order?

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Yup....lemme find it... hang on a sec.... http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=302

Ok let's see if I got the right one...

I'm not sure you would have it by wednesday though. It's shipping from St. Louis.

What do you mean by recoatability? You mean after a couple of years, or do you mean adding multiple layers during the first application?

Yep...5 pails free shipping, any colors you want. :)

Beth

[Aplus 525]

Beth,

Does Wood Tux have to be stripped completely for a recoat, or can it be just washed with a percarb cleaner and recoated?

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Wash with a percarb, and recoat. :) You can apply 5 times (up to 15 years) before you need to strip, unless the owner changes their mind or something...but then, we all know THAT never happens....lol...:D

Beth

[Paul B. 523]

Can we talk oil based semi-transparent stain theory? Hopefully some experts will jump in and offer corrections and additional expert advice/information.

Without talking product quality, could it be said that most (maybe not all) oil based stains can be coated over with only cleaning?

The less failure level, the thinner coat should be applied for maintenance coat?

Some of the factors impacting the quality of results would be:

- You expect some failure before you apply a maintenance coat as with a semi-transparent stain, a recoat, especially ones that contain a significant amount of pigmentation will cause the semi-transparent to turn into a semi-solid or solid surface coating (unless it reaches a level of failure prior to becoming a solid look).

- Too thick of a coating will cause a higher rate of failure on all surfaces but especially on horizontal surfaces.

- I'm not sure what other items are considered solids except all that does not evaporate (these would include pigmentation and non-evaporating oils). Again, I'm not sure how the percent of solids in stains determines life and overall quality, but the assumption is that the higher levels provide higher quality.

Example: Cuprinol at 18%; TWP at 30%; Cabot at 44%; Wolman F&P at 68%; Ready Seal and Wood Tux with 80% plus.

Based on this criterion, (and assuming that the mildewcide content provides adequate protection against mold & mildew) you could say that Wood Tux is one of the top quality stains on the market.

So you ask: "What's your point?"

I'm trying to check my assumptions and learn a thing or two.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

There is a top of the line mildewcide in Wood Tux. :)