PLD 14 Report post Posted June 10, 2005 After just 1.25 years the oil in my GP T1511 is getting milky. This started after an oil change saturday before last. It was clear before that. It has run dry on rare ocassion when I started the pump and then realized that the water was off. I suspect blowby, and see quite a bit of action in the sight glass when the pump is running. It may have always "bubbled, boiled, and rolled" when running, but I never paid and attention until the oil came milky. If it is blowby, it's not bad as the oil level never changes significantly. Now for the questions: - Rebuild or minor repair? - Realistically, how long can it last like this? - Should I press on until it fails or stop now. I.e. Will waiting considerably increase the final repair bill. If it will cost 1-200 extra, I press on and wait. If it will result in a cracked block vs. a bearings and rings rebuild, I stop. - Is a rebuild a do it yourself job for someone with good mechanical skills and tools? Are special tools required? - How long does a rebuild take typically (hours)? - Even if I CAN do it myself, should I or should I really consult an old pro? - How long does a repair shop charge/take? -I'm a one pump shop. Should I buy a replacement T1511 and rework mine "off the clock". i.e. I'll be out of a pump for several days. Now for the sidebar questions - Is there a pump that will run off 13hp and trade PSI for 5.5gpm? - Is that a stupid idea? - Should I just drop 5g on a 5.5/hot rig and put this one in the shop? One last question: - Who's the idiot who designs most all small engine tools so the oil drain always pours onto the frame before spilling downward into the drain pan? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RyanH 14 Report post Posted June 10, 2005 Milky oil is a sign of water mixed in with the oil. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tropical wave 22 Report post Posted June 10, 2005 One last question: - Who's the idiot who designs most all small engine tools so the oil drain always pours onto the frame before spilling downward into the drain pan? the same idiot that designed and sells the extension tubes so oil doesnt drip on the frame....... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Russ Johnson 141 Report post Posted June 10, 2005 Here's a link to the service instructions for General. GP Service Parts Breakdown A couple of things they don't mention: Internal pliers or a slide hammer puller can be used to extract the brass rings. Always replace the copper washers if you remove the plungers. I would rebuild as soon as possible, as it can only get worse. You've caught it now before major damage is done. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites