tank plumbing question

[Curb Appeal 14]

OK, got my TS2021 coming to me so now I can finally use my tank.

Just to confirm,

1. I need to plumb with 3/4" braided poly to the pump.

2. Float valve at the top of tank.

3. Bypass from unloader back to tank.

Does home deopt/plumbing supply have all that I need to make all of these connections?

I'll be using a 300 gallon tote with 100+- gallons of water with a 2" gate valve. (should I use the gate valve as a dump and drill a hole and mount a 3/4" barb for the tank to pump line?)

All of my connections need to be disconnectable seeing as I have to mount the tank in the bed of my truck. (I REALLY need a bigger trailer!!!) Does this pose any problems that you can imagine?

If anyone has any pictures of any or all of these connections, please share. 1000 words could really help me out right now.

• float valve mounting onto tote tank
  
• pump feed line from 2" gate valve or new 3/4" barb type connection
  
• tank side of unloader bypass

Thanks to everyone...

[hydro Tek Man 14]

If you are using the cage tanks do not put any holes in the sidewalls use the 2 inch ball valve and split it from there . 3/4 inch hose is fine but include a water filter and bypass the unloader back to the tank .

[Curb Appeal 14]

Got it plumbed. The guys at the local pipe supply and hose supply houses were very helpful. We got everything hooked up and ready for my new pump. I can't wait for my new toy...

one thing I was wondering though:

How much pressure does the bypass line have from the unloader?

Thanks...

[RogerG 14]

Your bypass will not have alot of pressure on it. You can use hose clamps on the hose with no problems. I had better results with 1" hose, you can get a barb fitting that 1" hose barb with a 3/4" thread.

Roger

[hydro Tek Man 14]

All you have to do is get a brass hose barb and drill an undersized hole heat up the hole with a torch and screw it into the hole . The hose barb will make threads that will hold it . Also keep it away from the inlet so you do not get any air bubbles in the inlet .

[John Orr 206]

As I recall, some types unloaders need a little back-pressure in the bypass hose. If you set it up and have a problem building pressure, kink the hose a little to test. 3/4" may be the right choice.

[hydro Tek Man 14]

K-7 unloaders should be run as short of a distance as possible no larger that 1/2 in.

[PLD 14]

Also keep it away from the inlet so you do not get any air bubbles in the inlet .

Good point, and one that bit me...

The bypass line generates quite a bit of turbulence. If you place it over the tank outlet, and it will cause air to be drawn at low water levels (<100 gallons).

FWIW, all my feed lines enter from the top of the tank and the outlets (pump feed, dump line) leave the bottom.

One last advice: Make your dump valve large (1.5" or better) so it does not take all day to dump.

[Washaway 64]

Phillip is right. I've got a 2" dump valve and it drains like a bat out of hell.

[Curb Appeal 14]

Thanks guys,

I'm going to run 3/4" hose back to the tank. In the interest of disconnectability, I got a few of these couplers and plugs.

http://www.colder.com/asp_main/TechSpec/HFC12TS.asp

I got a bulkhead panel mount coupler for the bypass line and a mpt for the feed line, both 3/4" barbs. My tank is in the bed of the truck and this way when I'm done for the day, I can just uncouple the feed & bypass lines from the tank and go...

I'm also thinking of my float valve setup. The way I have it in my mind is that I want it to be adjustable. So, if I want to work with 100gal, I can adjust it down to the 100gal level in my tank. Or 200gal, 250gal, etc...

I'm picturing a 1" hole in the top of the tank. Inside the tank is the Hudson valve screwed into a length of 1" PVC pipe. The length would have to be at least 3' long. at the top of the pipe, a 90 degree elbow and a garden hose thread adapter.

If I want to keep the tank at 100gal, I slide the pipe down onto the tank until the float valve hits the water level and shuts off the supply. If I want to use 200gal, I could pull the pipe up until the valve is at the 200gal level. Etc, etc...

The only thing I haven't been able to figure out is how to keep the pipe secured at the level I want it at. I'd need something to clamp the pipe outside the top of the tank to keep it from sliding back down in. I don't know yet. Time to take a stroll through Home Deopt and see what grabs me...

Oh yea, I am keeping the 2" valve for dumping.

Thanks guys...

[PLD 14]

The only thing I haven't been able to figure out is how to keep the pipe secured at the level I want it at. I'd need something to clamp the pipe outside the top of the tank to keep it from sliding back down in.

a) Smaller pipe inside short section of bigger pipe. Put a thumbscrew through the larger pipe sleeve and squeeze the inner tube.

b) Angle iron and c clamp. Holds tubes like a champ.

[Curb Appeal 14]

b) Angle iron and c clamp. Holds tubes like a champ.

Thought about either that or a heavy duty spring clamp. Either of those would probably be the easiest to adjust...

a) Smaller pipe inside short section of bigger pipe. Put a thumbscrew through the larger pipe sleeve and squeeze the inner tube.

Of course that would give the 1" pipe some stability and support. I think that if the pipe was extended all of the way out of the tank, the top (with the garden hose connected to it) might be top heavy...