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douseahouse

oxalic problem

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i posted this on the pt forums but nobody had an answer so i'll try you guys. being a bonehead i applied oxalic acid to a pool deck that had the slightly beige tint to it. the reason i applied was to remove rust stains. well i did remove the rust stains but the concrete now had a white chalky look to it. i had to go back over it with pressure to remove the top coat of oxalic but it still has a slight white chalk look to it. the surface cleaner would not cut it so i had to use a 40 degree tip. now i also have those dreaded stripes in some places. luckily the homeowner is not complaining but if i were them i would. any suggestions?

rando

thanks john, micah, and dustin for the telephone help

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mr. knucklehead left it to dry. roger and celeste have offered some advice and the good guys at echochem also gave me a few ideas to try. thanks for all your prayers...you guys are praying for me aren't you?

rando

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hey ken,

tell me more about the gs restoration. eaco chem called me and had me try a couple of products but not that one. anyway, the two (hd80 and efortless) really did not work. also, how much area does a pail cover?

thanks,

rando

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i posted this on the pt forums but nobody had an answer so i'll try you guys. being a bonehead i applied oxalic acid to a pool deck that had the slightly beige tint to it. the reason i applied was to remove rust stains. well i did remove the rust stains but the concrete now had a white chalky look to it. i had to go back over it with pressure to remove the top coat of oxalic but it still has a slight white chalk look to it. the surface cleaner would not cut it so i had to use a 40 degree tip. now i also have those dreaded stripes in some places. luckily the homeowner is not complaining but if i were them i would. any suggestions?

rando

thanks john, micah, and dustin for the telephone help

Can we get more info on this or a piucture? I ask cause I wonder if the tint you describe is a colorant or if it is the all too common result of muriatic leaching of the crete minerals and glues. People can get used to the biege tint from the muriatic and but if you want it back your gonna play hell trying to reproduce it. My feeling is that if you have to make good on this then your gonna have to treat the whole area and work towards it all being lighter as it should be in the first place (that's if it not a stained or colored crete project).No way I would do such with checking if customer wants it lighter though.....

The prevention of beige/yellowing/and or rusting from the hydrochloric is to use less strength to begin with and then neutralize after. The rust is from using unhibited muriatic most likely and the coloring is like a combination of minerals and glues being leached up...looks yuk to me personally..

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i was by the home today and forgot my camera. the funny thing about this is that the homeowner is not complaining so maybe i should quit too. it's just that i know that it's not right and i really wanted it to be. i feel like if i leave it alone then maybe the oxalic may just wear off and everything will blend back in. that's what i hope will happen. ken suggests the gsr from eaco chem. i just emailed them to get their opinion since it is their product. as far as the homeowner is concerned i'm finished and everything is ok but i know what i'm looking at and apparently they don't. they are probably the best customer that i have ever had and i really feel like i have deceived them. tomorrow will be a better day i hope.

rando

hey, thanks for you help

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Don't beat yerself over it..such work with substrates in attempting rust fix or color changes is not work anyone can guarantee (sp?)lol) with any certainty of outcome...Guess it would depend on what you told them to begin with on whether you have justification of labeling yer own self as a deceiver.. :)

The oxalic or what you did will not wear off..it is an actual change made to the surface..All you can do is wait for dirt, add color, or lighten the other areas to try and match.

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