Percarbs

[petemoss 14]

Around here most decks are pressure treated pine with no sealer. I have been cleaning these with Wolman's Deck and Fence Brightener (which works ok most of the time). I have been intending to go ahead and purchase a percarb product in bulk for the cost savings. After looking, it seems that everyone has their own flavor of percarb that they sell. I read that the EFC38 is supposed to be very good, but I was wondering how much difference their really is between all the different brands.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

It's a HUGE difference. You really should try it. This is a percarb with attitude and it acts as a light duty stripper at full strength, or a fantastic cleaner at less than full strength. It's shipped in powder to allow you to mix as needed.

Beth

[Firedkm 14]

Pete,

I have tried alot of precarb cleaners from other sellers on different boards. They all have there favorite "secrete recipe" and work very good. Some are just a straight precarb cleaner and others like the efc38 that beth carrires has other cleaners mixed into it. Out of all the precarbs I have played with I do like the efc-38 the best. This is just my opinion and others will reccommend other brands.

Out of all the chems I have tried I am not buying everything from just one supplier. Somethings I feel work better than others and that is where I will purchase them from. I would say you should ask Beth for a sample kit she offers and try them out for yourself and make your own decision. Good Luck!

[ron p 500]

if you just bought OXI-CLEAN you would be sorely dissapointed. It would also cost you a ton more money.

Most percarb's have filler's that do nothing but make it look like your getting more for your money. Oxi is the worst for doing this.

EFC has other chem's in it that make it work better and give it CLING. without cling your not doing much on vert. because you need dwell time.

[reed 500]

One thing not mentioned above, even with the EFC38, you SHOULD brighten/neutralize afterwards. Though efc will brighten on its own accord, you can do yourself a favor and the customer too, by using a citrallic or oxallic after washing with efc38.

Another helpful hint, if you a going to strip TWP, use the efc38 instead. It was formulated at the beginning to be a stripper for TWP. So you can save some $$ and not use a stripper, but use the EFC38 instead. And as always, brighten afterwards.

Reed

[petemoss 14]

Thanks everyone.

That does help me out to hear about the additives in EFC38. I always felt that the Wolman's didn't have quite enough kick. What Dale said gives me confidence in the product. When someone isn't dedicated to one mfg. but chooses one of their products because they like it best says alot for it.

Thanks Reed for the info on the brightener. I have been using straight oxalic on the decks that seem unusually dark when I get done, but I will try to go the extra distance on all of them in the future.

Michael Moss

[Tim Smith 14]

I restore wood with a percarbonate mixture. I too, in the past, have used efc38 and think its a great product.

Always neutralize - your finish product is so much better - Also, certain cleaners and strippers can cause problems for your sealant, if not properly neutralized. Its a fairly quick process - just spray on brightner/neutralizer and leave - no need for rinsing. I show the customer the deck as I neutralize, so that they can see the instant brighting-Customers love it-Its another way of showing your competitive advantage (what makes you different).

I use a 50/50 mixture of Oxalic and Citric acid. Oxalic is poision and can cause problems to metals, etc. Citric is safer, but not as effective. I find a mixture of both works well.

I use the above process for decks, fence, shake roofs, & log homes.

[Tim Smith 14]

m

[Tim Smith 14]

I restore wood with a percarbonate mixture. I too, in the past, have used efc38 and think its a great product.

Always neutralize - your finish product is so much better - Also, certain cleaners and strippers can cause problems for your sealant, if not properly neutralized. Its a fairly quick process - just spray on brightner/neutralizer and leave - no need for rinsing. I show the customer the deck as I neutralize, so that they can see the instant brighting of the wood-Customers love it-Its another way of showing your competitive advantage (what makes you different).

I use a 50/50 mixture of Oxalic and Citric acid. Oxalic is poision and can cause problems to metals, etc. Citric is safer, but not as effective. I find a mixture of both works well.

I use the above process for decks, fence, shake roofs, & log homes.

[eregor 14]

hello,

I know some about Asphalt roof cleaning but nothing about Shake roof cleaning. I've been reading about EFC38.

1. where do you get it?

2. how do you apply it?

3. how do you neutralize the roof once done and where do you by the neutralizer?

4. also, I have three boxes of 12.5% chlorine in my shop. Can i use this with the right mixture on Asphalt roofs?

please help.

thanks.

[Deck Guy 14]

Why on earth would you ever spend $10+ for two pounds of Wolmans brightener?? Get the stuff the pros use, and save some $$$ at the same time.

I refuse to show up at a customers house with anything from Home Depot in my truck. It just makes it harder to explain why I'm charging $600-$700 to prep and stain a deck when they could have bought the same stuff and done it themselves. Please tell me that you don't use Flood CWF-UV to finish decks!

[bigchaz 157]

Hey larry this post is super old and the poster doesnt seem to be around anymore.

[Deck Guy 14]

Thanks Chaz, I guess it popped up on "New Posts" due to the question posted above my response. I guess I should take a peek at the dates before wasting my time.

[bigchaz 157]

Haha yea he doesn't have a signature either so no way to tell if hes even still in business

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Might as well close this down then for posterity with pricing info...

As low quantity buyer I paid $1.71 per lb. recently.

[seymore 90]

What's a precarb??? BDA 4EvEr !! :cool: