Beth n Rod

Another thing to keep in mind is that when you have 2 different species of wood in the same construction, they will have different color representations based upon the sealer you choose. If you are choosing anything that allows you to see through the stain, there will be a difference in the color. A toner as you mentioned is the lightest of pigmented stains and is going to be the most noticeable. Some contractors who specialize in color matching on different woods can get you a closer match but there is no guarantee due to the age and condition of the two different sections of fence that they will match. H.O.A.'s are funny with the covenants which are often created by people with a preference and not necessarily a valid reason. I would submit to them the ability to apply a semi-transparent stain to the fence which will be better bang for your buck and last longer than a toner would and provide a protection factor the toner can't. Food for thought. Rod

At least for now, the WASHINGTON CAPITALS are on top of our division....NOT the NY Rangers.... DO you hear that John T? See you next week. Beth

I posted this on behalf of the vendor who was stolen from. Just trying to help spread the word in the hopes that someone would know something. I hope the good folks at McHenry Equipment are able to recover it. Beth

Hydraulic oil is not necessarily a lubricating oil. It is designed with a density factor for the purpose of limiting compression differential. Made to displace air which compresses so easily in order to provide a safe hydraulic fluid. ND (non-detergent) oil is typical for pumps because of the sealed compartment they operate in. I would stick with oil designated for use in pumps and change them based upon the operations manuals specifications. Rod

First starting out, we used the top end units HD would sell which worked fine. Helped to bring in the revenue to upgrade to better units. Went through 4 of them (one was a mistake, mid-grade unit....broke down the very same day). Once we got our first Hydrotek unit, the results improved and so did our backs. Rod

That is the important part of this job. Setting expectations. I tend to set them low and over deliver. Rod

Definitely a unique application but I have not had any opportunities to do any myself. Rod

I just clicked the banner, and it works fine for me. I'll type it again here..... http://www.cleanertimes.com/books/bb2015/ You can copy and paste it. The book is an incredible resource. It's OVER 500 page s long, and would be a huge asset to you as a newbie. We wish you the best. Beth

Or one can buy a larger orifice 0* tip. We have a 0040 and 0050 we use as shooter tips. Rod

As long as you are not disturbing the asbestos beneath the paint, you can wash it. A detergent and bleach combination will work well but be sure to rinse abundantly afterwards. Wipe the siding with your hand (gloved) to see if it still feels slippery (indicates bleach and detergent still present). One you can wipe the siding and the water feels more like tacky, you can be assured it is free of chemicals. Rod

If you are going to read all winter, click the link in my signature. It will keep you busy. Beth

No Problem. Hope it helped. Rod

Awesome pic!! You can see the numbers are there!!! Beth

Do you have a machine that will heat the water? Rod

No fire place? No fire wood? You could have seasoned that and sold it roadside to pay for your Heineys!!! Beth

Oxalic Acid would work as a mild version. Phosphoric would be stronger and more aggressive. Rod

Thanks. Sometimes the 24' doesn't reach all we need it for. Rod

The question is, what did you do with the lumber? Beth

We used to use a decker for applying stains. Problem was the seals would wear out fast and you would have a leak or drip below the pump onto the surface unexpectedly and thus a clean up issue. I don't imaging those using light bodied stains like ready seal or twp for example would experience any issues such as we did. We only use them exclusively for applying chemicals. As for applying any coating we use Titan sprayers. Rod

Chemical residue improperly rinsed will become active in subsequent dew/humidity periods and degrade the siding. Aluminum shows it as a rust while the vinyl will show it as dirt. You can try a mild acid to see if it will come off. If it doesn't, it is pre-existing irreversible damage. Rod

Mike, Mind sharing the brand of that pole you mentioned? Rod

A Makita 7" grinder/buffer will be a great investment in your ability to provide some great prep results. Expensive yes....but durable. Our have lasted many years and helped with hundreds of projects so far. The only thing you will have to deal with is occasionally replacing the cord (gets wrapped up sometimes) but I keep a spare in the bag the unit comes with. We have 4 Makita's and only 1 Dewalt. (the other died a horrible death and became parts for the remaining unit). Rod

We have and use both..... each has a place. Beth

The solution depends on the surface you are cleaning and what you are removing. Can you pick a surface or job type? There is no one chemical fits all in pressure washing. Most of us have many chems for a variety of scenarios. Beth

It will work. Cob webs are a pistol. Yuck. Beth