Beth n Rod

Wacoon Wuss! :lol: Beth

The percab we buy now ( NOT ESI) seems to last much better....but then I suspect since we buy pure percarb - and not sodium metasilicate in disguise....it would last better and fizz more. I have a headache. Headaches make me grumpy....but I promise to be nice! :lol: Beth

Big Mike, I have noticed product I have in stock from last year does not work as well as when it first came in...but here is some of the information you asked for. 06c099pe Evidently, the shelf life is around a year but this could be extended by encapsulating the powder. Downside is that it does not work as well in this form according to what I have researched.Rick, you must have some of that version or something that my little I am not a chemist mind cannot explain. Percarbonate cleaner I have ordered that is older than 1 year tends to not work as well or at all, does not fizz or help to remove mildew or algae which is the point of using it to begin with without having to muscle it off with the pw'er. btw, I have some 2 year old efc_38...want it? I gotta warn ya, it's crap right now. Rod!~

This is just a really good link! Powdered Oxygen Bleach Products Beth

Adrian, Why don't you just ask Henry to do the brotherly thing for a fellow TGS member and fly down to Texas and save you the embarrassment of being a "pansy tit" again? :lol: He could make a quick 500 bucks! :lol: If you do, get a video! Beth

Well, IF it is misinformation chalk it up to.....drum roll please.....RUSSELL CISSELL....................who says his EFC-38 (contains percarbonate) does indeed have a shelf life in powder form.... Beth

Dude! you looked like you were about to hurl! lol Congrats on the guts to do it but I bet it was fun. Rod!~

Make sure it is fresh, some dealers are not aware that percarbonates have a 6 month shelf-life. Rod!~

On the other hand you do not want to forget to pull the lollipop!!! :lol: Beth

Manny, ryanwiles and rayh78 Would all of you please go to your MY CONTROLS and add your signatures. Thank you. Beth

Welcome to TGS! Glad you found us. Please go to your My Controls and add your signature. Thanks. :) Beth

I have never understood the urge to jump from a perfectly good plane that will land, but if it floats your boat...BRAVO!!! Glad you had fun! Beth

Oh joy!!! Nine days after 4 weeks....of...rain. Yeah - that seems balanced.... :lol: Beth

Or washing in general - too wet to seal!!! GGRRRR!!! Beth

Amen! Beth

If this rain keeps up we'll all end up with webbed feet! Beth

A lady contacted me in Charlottesville, VA, she has a white cedar play set that was just built and the builder sealed it in Sikkens, not sure if it was SRD or DEK. They did a sloppy job and she is looking at thick areas, thin areas, runs, drips, etc... She wants it stripped and recoated in something else, she deosn't like the "orange" either. If you are used to stripping Sikkens, working with cedar and this is your area, let me know and I'll put you in touch. Very nice lady. Beth

I have not used that product but I don't not believe that The Sealer Store would carry anything that did not work well. Not good business for any one and Scott Paul is a good guy. We use HD-80 and have done so for 8 years with about a 98% success rate overall considering we have had to boost it for acrylics. Understand, Sikkens is an oil based resin and it penetrates deep into the substrate of the wood. It can take a few applications to get it all out and the best indicator I can give is make sure the wood looks dark consistently all over before you wash it off. Then, neutralize it and rinse thoroughly. Sanding is in case you are not going to strip again. I was referring to the wood that showed a marked presence of sealer still in the wood because there is a difference in color. If you strip it, a light sanding may be necessary to remove the fuzzy crushed velvet looking condition strippers create. Rod!~

p.s. Rod forgot to mention that as we were walking up to his door, we noticed damage from a pressure washer, inflicted by him or another company....maybe the one who did damage across the street, we did not know.... Beth

2" Clamp! Rod!~

Unless you have a signed waiver, your style better change. You could be held liable for someone elses oops. Granted the pics show damage here but given that you have asked how to deal with it means you are not experienced enough (no offense meant here) to correct it if it can be. This is damage and may not be reversible. The siding was subjected to high pressure washing and not only was the oxidation removed, so was a layer of the substrate. The cost for trying to 'even' it out vs replacement is about the same albeit the latter would make the rest of the house look old by comparison. In addition, you pointed out it was damaged, to even it out means replicating a marginal version of that damage. This is something you want no part in because you set yourself and/or your company up for a liability to replace it without a disclaimer/waiver signed by the customer. If you do not have a waiver, you will need to have a paralegal or better draft one for you. They are usually universal in format but it allows you to describe the pre-existing conditions and the process you are being asked to perform and what that process might inflict upon the substrate. Another important question: does your liability insurance cover this? Sorry for the long post but I have a short story for you. We had a prospect call us for a housewash. Upon arriving the customer was not the usual sort of friendly but invited us to look at the property and give him an estimate. Before hand though, the customer pointed out across the street, another house which had been pw'd and mentioned the streaking and asked if that should be replaced. He mentioned that his house was around the same age and thought about getting new siding since his was oxidized pretty badly. He also happened to mention during the course of conversation that he would not hesitate to file a suit if his siding didn't turn out well or looking like the one across the street. The customer said he had an errand to run and left in his car. Beth and I looked at each other, finished our walk around the house, got in our vehicle and left w/o leaving an estimate. It was the last estimate of the day so as soon as we got back, the phone was ringing and it was that last customer. He was downright furious that we didn't leave an estimate and demanded that we send him one right away. I politely said: "Thank you for the opportunity sir, but we decline." and ended the call. Yours may not be as obvious but there are wolves in sheep's clothing. Your other thread is showing that you are having problems with another customer so I will end this by saying: "Contractor Beware and C.Y.A.!" (Cover You Anterior) :) Rod!~

+1! Buy what you need, do the job, and either return the other pail or use it on a future job. Problem solved. However....did you specify the product on your paperwork? You answer lies in your paperwork. If he agreed to another product IN WRITING, you have something to discuss. If not........make him a happy customer. Beth

Lesson learned my friend. Anything over and above or not included in the written estimate is not an obligation to either party. If the person wants another product other than what you spec'd, provide him with a written estimate for the difference and additional shipping charges. You are under no obligation if it isn't in writing. If it is in writing, order the product and install it. I can understand the cost factor point Ken has made but there is a premise to be established with any customer. If it isn't on the estimate, it is extra no matter what. It takes you another trip, ordering time and the rescheduling to accommodate this customer till the product arrives. If you are small now, it may not seem a big deal, but wait till you get bigger and your time is stretched thin. You will begin to appreciate having a policy that is in line with most contractor laws because it is there to protect both parties. As far as he is only paying the deposit, you completed the strip portion which means you have complied with the contract as you were obligated. The customer is obligated to pay that portion. Unless for some reason you didn't specify that in your estimate separately what each cost was going to be. Proceeding on the basis you did separate the costs line by line, tell him that he must pay that portion, if he does not, then you must notify him of your intent to file a lien on his property in lieu of the unpaid balance (in writing, certified or registered mail) and will see him in court. If your state requires you to be licensed in order to do so, you are in between a rock and limbo on that money if you are not. If your paperwork is in order and you have a signed original of the contract, you have the best position as you have pictures to document your work. Their change of mind in color is not an obligation to you. There must be a change order or addendum by most contracting laws to be filed and signed by both parties before changes can be implemented. (check you local state regulations) If you do not have your end (signed contract, specific cost breakdowns for each service, the product and color indicated and signed by the contractee) you have little to go on and if it were me, I'd cut my losses and walk away. Some states have a verbal agreement clause but those are often hard to litigate and cost more to hire an attorney than it is worth.

Another solution I use is an in-line injector I can use right at the gun. If I need to downstream at low psi like in using an extend-a-wand for high work, I will simply QC the unit just before the gun and stick the pvc tube into a bucket and pull the trigger. Some may say it is too much work but I need to use it only on high reach surfaces and on days when the wind won't allow an M-5 to reach it. As far as capping the downstreamer, remove it and replace it with a male threaded cap/plug using teflon tape on the threads. This is the best way to cap a port. These can be found in Lowes or HD in the plumbing aisle. Rod!~