Beth n Rod

Does the appearance resemble that of the photos in this threads first post? If so, the way to remove it is by buffing. If not the same, then pics would be helpful in identifying the issue and proposing a solution. Rod

We used to recommend Extenda-wand. Typically, there is only the one kind now available. Here is my google search results: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=24+ft+Telescoping+Pressure+Washer+Wand&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwierIK6hdjwAhWPGFkFHZ60B0UQ1QIwFHoECB0QAQ&biw=1152&bih=521&dpr=1.67

London based company. I am sure there are sprayer units one can have customized for this. The biggest and most expensive is the sheet metal wash container and reclamation. Any Local metal welder can build it for you to the specs you have in your vehicle. Rod & Beth

We all get calls from time to time that are out of our service area. Help your fellow contractors here on TGS by sharing those leads here. Networking works! Beth :sunshine: :dancing:

Rust is typically removed with Phosphoric acid. You mentioned a metal shim so that should be a good course of action. More dwell time as well. This stain looks to have been absorbed over time so it will have penetrated the pores of Ipe which is unlike soft woods which have elongated fibers instead. The sanders may come in handy after again. Now, as to the photo, this looks to be a caustic stain. Given it in a public use area, who knows. I would try f18 alone. Prepare you may have to do entire lengths of boards to keep the appearance more uniform. Brushing may also be helpful. Neutralize after. Rod & Beth

I have always heard people who own them call them Lanai's. Pool cages sounds very.....industry speak. I could be wrong though. Rod & Beth

BUY the PRESSURE WASHERS GUIDEBOOK here!!! It covers this topic.....

All sites need good SEO. Organic rank is hard to come by. Make sure the text on your page reflects the key words your clients would use to find you. Beth

Looked at your site and while it looks good, what is in it counts towards ranking in search engines. There isn't enough of the content to push your rankings so you likely get shoved several pages down in the search people may do. I did a search for: Naples Fl. lanai cleaning and your way down on page two. Your site calls it a pool cage. That isn't a common term people would use so stick to what is commonly used by your customers. I'll let Beth contribute here as this is her specialty. Rod & Beth

Armstrong Clark products do not have any resin system to hold onto a grit. Your suspicion that it wouldn't hold would be correct in that. If they want a similar appearance, you can try Sikkens SRD natural with the grit. That will hold it. One other thing. We always add a small amount of Japan Drier to help speed up the drying process and avoid the 'scotch tape' feel underfoot for weeks following the installation. It also helps to minimize pollutants sticking to it and later becoming mold embedded. Now for the cons. You will need to strip it to avoid the UV shift which causes the resins to darken making maintenance a bit more involved. Otherwise, I'd look into a product that has something that will hold onto the grit. Rod & Beth

Envirospec was the company that built them. This should help. Send the tech a photo of that tag and a full picture of the unit, the pump, motor etc they may need. https://envirospec.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2tiYvpGG6gIV7MuGCh1MtQT7EAAYASAAEgImOfD_BwE Rod & Beth

What is it you need the info for? Rod & Beth

Glad to know we could be of help. Enjoy your deck and pool! Rod & Beth

Either way, I'm sure you will enjoy it. As a contractor myself, there are things that I just don't have time for in my own back yard and have had to hire someone to help. Using a pressure washer is not about the pressure. It is about the technique and method. We don't use High pressure on wood. The cleaners do the work and the pressure washer serves as the speed rinse tool to help facilitate faster and more effective cleaning. It is when one leaves out the cleaners that the pressure washer is left to it's intent to clean with. Pressure. It is not really clean either. It may remove most of the superficial dirt but there is remnants that remain or can regrow if not removed or properly addressed. Rod & Beth

Doing it every year is ambitious. I know from dealing with my own deck but I wish you the best in making your new pool deck a wonderful place for your family to have fun. Rod & Beth

Considering maintenance is the first topic in choice of not only the wood but a sealer either clear or with a stain/tint is important. Considering a budget and the likelihood that the pool will be in a sunny area, Pressure treated wood is the least expensive option. Look for it to need replacement in about 15 years or so. Sealing with either of the options is acceptable as long as you go forth with the understanding that when cleaning is performed, there is likely to be wash debris sprayed into that pool. The deck should be dry by the time you seal it correct but should be done within two weeks of installation. Also, the end cuts of the boards need to be sealed with an End Grain Sealer to help with longevity, and natural moisture loss which will happen in these situations. As far as oil vs acrylic or any hybrid formulation, I would stay away from acrylics which do not perform well when exposed to bleach and can lead to the wood turning black due to a chemical reaction with the formulation in the wood. Oil based products will weather better and be easier to maintain. Rod & Beth

The best advice I can give is to look into vinyl siding manufacturers on the subjects of: Installation, maintenance and recommended cleaners for the types of siding installed. Aside from vinyl, there is aluminum, composites such as Hardiplank and cementatious coatings such as E.I.F.S. (Exterior Insulatative Finish System) or brand names such as Dryvit and common other versions called Stucco. There is much to learn in regard to washing houses and learning about their construction including familiarization with IRC residential and local codes helps one to become a better cleaner and less of a creator of damage or liability. We only use low pressure from two options. One is an M-5 Jet which is for application of the cleaners. The other is a rinse tip and at times a shooter tip which is a 0° tip with a larger orifice to help throw water up high. Pressure never really exceeds 60-100 psi given the range from tip to surface. Rod & Beth

It is unfortunate that you have that allergy so in terms of what you are asking, there comes another aspect you need to be aware of. Pressure on siding forces water behind it. That is bad. The siding is a system of J channels that overlap and have no ability to keep water out when it is forced up under each clap board lap of siding. This is why we use chemicals to do the work and prefer soft washing in order to limit the liability created by pushing water behind the siding where it can get to the sheathing which is mostly particle board or plywood. Yes, there is a moisture barrier wrap installed but the one thing I have found is it is not consistent. Many contractors installing tyvek or whatever name brand house wrap before siding goes on actually skip the upper floors and gables and in some cases the whole house if the inspector is not due to be back before they can make up for lost time due to weather. Bleach is a part of the solution we use. There is a number of other ingredients involved to help clean. Just like doing dishes and laundry, there are cleaners for specific stains and clothing types. This plays into our field in that we largely only focus on removing mold, mildew and algae which are the common conditions house siding incurs. There is a detergent, a degreaser, a foaming agent and a rinse aid. Each plays a part in the cleaning process and most of all helps to ensure that not only is the siding clean, no bleach is left behind to be reactivated upon any subsequent moisture event. Now, in answering your question about GPM vs PSI, there is a rule of thumb. GPM helps to rinse and wash faster because you are using more water to do the job. PSI is used to address issues that require pressure to remove. In the instances of what you are planning to do, psi will play little in that role. But! Before you jump to higher gpm, you will have to ask one question: What are the supply capabilities of the residents flow? There are some out there that have flow restrictors which won't feed your machine the gpm it requires. The other option is to have a buffer tank that you can arrive with and fill while applying chems to get ahead of that. Some use trailer configurations (personally I hate them due to neighborhood road/parking conditions which don't allow much room to navigate. Others use a van with a weight capability to support the large load of a tank. A gallon of water weighs 8 pounds so multiply that times the tanks capacity and compare to the cargo capacity and let that guide you. I have two versions we use since we do commercial in addition to residential which is our primary focus. A sprinter van which has a 200 gal tank and a chevy 2500 which only has a 30gal tank. Each serves a purpose accordingly and both are 3500psi 4gpm+ units by Hydrotek. We also have a simple drag around unit which is a 4000psi, 4gpm unit to supplement when we need additional guns on the task. The correct soaps and in many cases bleach will be required to address the many conditions you will encounter. To avoid the issues of allergic reactions, not only for yourself but any employees as well: PPE (Personal Protection Equipment). Rain gear, gloves (Determine which you have no allergies to. We use Nitrile) and rubber boots to keep your feet dry. The other item which will help as well is a face shield. These are costly but less so in the long run considering the medical outlays or time lost. Let me know if you have any questions. Rod & Beth

The product he is using is Oxalic acid and is common for cleaning before application of a stain. It does not have stripping capabilities and should not be a problem as long as the contractor attends anything that gets on it to avoid any whitish remnants on the surface. Oxalic acid is white when it dries. The 'Deck Wash' product is bleach which is the part that needs the Revive to neutralize after the wash is complete. This product may discolor the stain on the neighbors side. Either way, the contractor will need access to the neighbors side to attend it properly after washing AND staining to ensure there are no issues. Unless the stain product is designed to be applied on wet wood, not allowing the wood to properly dry is not the way to do it. Find another contractor. Rod & Beth

Make a good year of it! Rod & Beth

I hear ya. We are beginning next week on the 11th. Given our season is finite and ends late november, I feel much of this year is going to be diminished and our biggest concern is people dropping off due to financial reasons. Rod & Beth

We're hoping the first week of May but we'll see. In Maryland, this is a hub of major infrastructure and as a result have not reached that plateau. Rod & Beth

Been on pause since late march. Rod & Beth

Ok, Does any of it seem kinda powdery or chalky? Asking because you may need to wash it again and recoat. If not, just recoat. Rod

From what I can gather, the product is a solid (according to the product named). Once dry, recoat where affected. If the product has peeled or cracked, you may have problems later on during its installation. Trying to strip a newly applied product is very difficult compared to one that has aged. Can you post pictures of the results after the rain? Rod