Beth n Rod

Spray and back pad. Rod!~

Call Tom at ACR Products and ask him for some 633-add. It will boost it and get it off. Rod!~

Yes. In the right neighborhood, it can be very effective. We place a sign when we are washing, and when we are sealing. We don't leave them past the point of being done. No time to go back to get them. Beth

....you ate those brownies too didn't you Jim.... Beth :lol:

Don't forget to vote! :) Beth

But Jim, vague questions promote thought provoking discussions from wood professionals such as yourself! :banana: Beth

Download these and keep them handy! Have employees read them. Beth

Bump! This is especially important if you are new to this business, and always serves as a good reminder even for those who have been around the block.... Beth :cup: :sunshine:

My least favorite part of wood restoration only deals with the heat. I find that when the temps are above 95* the temp on the deck can reach upwards of 110*-120*. At this point, flashing becomes the issue along with the heat prostration. Cool down trips to the water cooler every 10-15 minutes and a good soak down of the head always helps. Rod!~

Ah....gotcha. Yeah, that is the pits. Beth

You mean being given an unmarked can and told to put it on the wood? Beth

.....which is why we like the pads better on ipe...no scratches. Beth

Pete, Pretty much ALL semi-transparent oils will "look" the same. They contain pigment, but let the wood show through. They all come in pretty much the same colors. Ipe is dense, so they will all last about the same - or within a few months of one another in full sun. This is an expected result. As for the Osborn, we prefer the defelting pads on ipe. You can get them at ACR PRODUCTS . They are a buffing pad, and we like the results better on ipe. Better than sanding or Osbornes. We like Osborne's for other things....each tool has its place. Beth

Shot of HD-80 melting a coating... http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/attachments/wood-cleaning-restoration-decks-fences-etc/6554d1168271115-pick-winner-wildcard-ready-rinse.jpg Beth

I would have had the same suspicion as well. I would call that a warning. Now, any upstanding company would have nothing to worry about, but who needs the hassle of someone who is already in the mindset of looking to protect their rights before they have even had any work performed. Given, in the past they could have been burned but that would be a flag for me. We had a number of potentials in the past who have given us signals that they were looking for a way to get something replaced just by having the work done and putting the liability on the last contractor to do it. A few were looking for new siding, others wanted a new deck. We didn't bite. In some cases we refused to provide any literature or pricing. I like being able to choose our clients. It allows me to make the right choices for our company and build a more solid client base who really want the service and appreciate the hard work and attention to detail we provide and stand behind. You have every right yourself to question the intentions of a prospect as it can deeply affect your companies ability to serve the clients you already have and impact your ability to meet your obligations. Rod!~

We use QB Pro. Beth

This is why we love deck work also. It is very satisfying all the way around. Beth

I will agree with Ken on the air flow condition as it will retain moisture but I will add that it appears the prep was incomplete and looks like there is another stain beneath the latest coating. This could have caused some adherence problems in conjunction with the high moisture retention condition which only needs a few weeks of dry and hot temps to set this type of failure in motion. In the event it does not come off with hd--80 alone, add a booster to it and give it a 30-45 minute dwell time. Keep it wet the whole time. Rod!~

Rewash with a percarb and neutralize. Beth

That is an easy strip. :banana: Go to: TheProSealerStore and buy HD-80. Mix at 6-8 oz per gallon, apply and let dwell. Time is your friend. Keep moist w/ more HD - don't let it dry out while working. Test it in a well adhered area by scratching at it with a paint stirring stick. When it comes off with ease in the worst area, wash the deck. Neutralize with Oxalic, citric or a blend thereof. Rinse again. Go back and sand any areas that need a little attention. Seal as customer desires. The reason I say it's not a hard strip is it is a deck STAIN on there not a paint. If it were a paint ( and if you are wrong you'll find out) you would be looking at a different chemical to remove it. Beth :cup: p.s. Nick, nice deck you posted in your 2nd link. How do you like working with Wood Tux and Woodrich S&S?

Looks great! Beth :cup:

Rowlette is out of business. Beth

...6 months to a year is about what I have heard is the life... I would still test it before I waste it...or get stuck on a job with no backup for it... Beth

If they are old, they may not work. Percarb has a shelf life. Beth

If there was a new oil based wood sealer on the market today, would you try it? It seems like many people are frustrated over longevity, availability in some cases, consistency in some cases, and some are just looking for a solution that better suits their client's needs. If a new product was released, would you try it this season? Beth