Beth n Rod

Thanks Barry, Appreciate the feedback. It was one of my thinking out of the box ideas and stemmed from a point of contention in the fact that at the time we had a bad customer. I am always trying to think of how to improve relations with our clients. Point is, some may not like the feedback but then again, if it was that bad, I am not about to do business with them again anyway. It was my thought to let them know why. I am a rebel and don't always go with the flow of things. Especially when it comes to people treating us with any less respect than they expect to receive from us. Oh well, never know what the consensus is until one asks. Rod!~

Welcome Robert! Yeah, I'd say you got a great deal. I have found the average new tank price runs around $1/gal give or take .01's and including freight. Rod!~

So...hows your report card so far? Rod!~

One will find many contradictions in the uses of bleach. Agreement on many camps has been for one reason over another and while there is validity in each, there is also some concern of the long term effects on wood. Down Jimmy boy. I got Wood tux and I'm not afraid to use it! Color up those bleach suede shoes for ya I will!!! I am not going to tell anyone not to use bleach on wood anymore. I have found my uses for it but they are according to suitability as with any chemical available for wood restoration. Rod!~

Well... what was the problem you solved? btw elvis just turned over in his grave Jim. :lol: Rod!~

For someone who has been doing it as many years as you have it may be simple, but to others who are just getting started perhaps the fact that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing and more if beneficial is what I think you are trying to say. For those who are trying to make sense of it all, the premise is this; learn about the reasons for each chemicals uses and the limitations/potentials and drawbacks of each. Learn about inter-chemical reactions and the hazards they can create by mixing the wrong ones. Understanding these helps one to make better use of the chemicals and also to understand when one becomes over kill. Kevin, you could benefit greatly from this: Forest Products Laboratory -- Forest Service -- USDA There is all the information regarding your proof you could need. It is where much of my intrinsic wood education comes from in addition to AWPA - The American Wood Preservers' Association and some others that I like to visit. Happy reading. Rod!~

There are other chemical and other media that come into wood care as well. The sun does not rise and set around bleach nor will bleach get you through each and every job. What is right on some jobs will not be right on others. The bottom line is getting professional results with your tools, with as little impact on the wood as possible. If you have done that, you're in great shape. Beth :groovy3: :cup:

Also noting that some of the siding possibly was stripped in the process. IF that is so, get a color swatch and match as closely as possible and buy some paint (spray paints are usually good matches) and recoat the affected areas. Your strip looks like you got about 96% off and may need some more neutralizing if not just some sanding to even out the uneven sun exposure splotchiness. Rod!~

A typical strip is up to 98% complete. It may take from 1 to 5 applications to get the product to easily come off the surface. Trick is not to wash in between applications. It adds water to the equation and throws off your concentration. Apply till you can easily remove the coating which is indicated by lightly scratching the surface in numerous areas to test for effectiveness. Once you see the wood directly by a test overall, you can begin the wash and then a thorough neutralization if you do not discover any remaining areas afterwards. You're off to a good start. Rod!~

Nice strip job! Beth

Kevin - If you pressure wash those interior floors with too much pressure you'll see that raised grain. ;) Beth

Raised grain is a misnomer in terms of referring to the hills and valleys that are created when the softer early wood is removed from between the harder late wood. The term "Raised grain" when used accurately refers to a situation where dried wood is exposed to water and the grain raises as it absorbs the moisture. This can be seen in most untreated lumber with a drip test. The undesired result can be remedied by sanding. Pressure treated lumber is already soaked with a specific concentration of water and a preservative which is determined by its designated usage of ground contact or above ground contact. Each has a respectively different concentration of the solution infused by pressurization. Certain cuts will exhibit raised grain while others will not. This is created by moisture. Now, the ribbed grain patterns most people notice on their decks which is created by a number of different causes is not only done by chemicals but also, weathering and high pressure cleaning. It is arbitrary in the fact that a chemical creates the ribbed grain but truer to the fact is that the method of cleaning creates the condition. Too strong a chemical can destroy the lignin in the wood making it easy for the early wood to be removed by brushing, water washing or a pressure washing process. The fact of the matter is that no matter what method one employs to clean a deck, the grain may suffer if the deck has not been properly protected or has been subjected to extensive use and/or neglect. We can all argue the various pro's and con's of any specific chemical or process but keep in mind that if the condition results, sanding will alleviate it. It is possible to use NAOH (Sodium Hydroxide based cleaners/strippers) or percarbonates or bleach to clean a deck, BUT!!!! in the correct diluted strength as it pertains to each. If you are stripping a deck (can't do it with bleach...sorry James) you will most likely get this result. Plan to sand it afterwards. If the deck has been allowed to age and weather for a prolonged period of time, the condition will occur as well. There are a number of different ways ribbed grain can happen and not many to always avoid it. Rod!~

It's my understanding that "raising the grain" as it is called, is actually the result of removing the softer wood, and is the result of too much pressure.... Beth

If you are leaning towards bleach, why not use the percarbonate instead? It is safer for the wood and works equally well. Beth

We have been known to help folks out both locally and farther away as well. I think it is important to get to know the person you are helping as well. You can get burned. Jeff, I have heard about your generosity and how you have given some very, very nice leads to folks, and I guess sometimes it works out and sometimes it doesn't. ;) Beth

Hi Rich, Thanks for your perspective. To me it is pretty much an arbitrary topic which tends to bring out the mincing of words whether purposefully or not and tightens the scope of others who may share any similar view points to ambiguity. I do not agree that it is impossible to avoid being a part of history when history favors those who figured prominently in it. I don't see myself making anywhere near that big of a splash as to be noticed in any archive of noteworthiness. I am a contractor like yourself and while we may clean up in our business', it will just get dirty again. If neither of us is chosen to clean it up again, someone else will. There is nothing notable for history to write about the majority of us except the statistics that our lifestyles, property and spending habits comprise in a demographic profile. Since there isn't a place for names, we are all anonymous figures that will soon be overwritten by the next wave of figures that pertain to the economics of that time. Pretty neat huh! ;) I did some searches this weekend and found that I am nowhere to be found unless I pay some service to release the data. Rod!~

yeah...if you say so rick ;) Beth :cup:

We're members also. Beth

This is another excellent question. Rod!~

I can see where you are heading John and Carlos. Unity in the industry is lacking seriously and contributes to the ineffectiveness of any efforts to formally bring about a common ground. With all the different facets of pw'ing alone, there is a bit of rivalry and too much "what's in it for me". I see people with that attitude as incapable of seeing beyond themselves and realizing the benefits of coming together for a larger purpose. With the lack of formal education and accredited training, there is a heavy reliance upon the bbs to fill in the gap. One problem is that the information received here is not tout worthy to anyone. It is without structure and hodgepodge at best. Yes, there is good information in the bbs, but it will never be able to hold a place in a portfolio to show to a customer. I have heard many say "I don't need that", or "I have my before and after pictures and a reference list and I am doing just fine", or "if I don't know something, I can go to the bbs and ask there". Ok, good for them. I for one am looking for something more substantial to help grow our business. Something that has stature and worth. An accreditation by an organization or national foundation that supports it and brings about consumer awareness to the attributes of its integrity as an official training or certification worth the paper it is written on. There isn't anything like that in existence and this industry is going to be nothing more than the us -vs- them mentality with arbitrary values to separate the professionals from the wannabes without it. Franchises have little hope of success without any type of official backing to give them the authenticity consumers are looking for. What can a bbs do? Who will step up to the plate? Rod!~

We have a Biz Links directory, and BBS's are welcome to ad their link. Some have done so. I think Grease Police is listed there. Beth

Well the batch that had the drier fixed but was not the "classic" does need to be mixed. I have pics of it separated in unopened pails. We still have a few of those pails left. The classic ones are better, but a drill and paddle are just good practice. We also use other products for different types of jobs and some of those must be paddled before applying them.

We keep a drill and paddle handy. In some cases you just need it. It never ever hurts to mix a pail, even if it looks fine. Just a good practice to get into. Adding a simple step like this helps to ensure you get the best result with your product, regardless of what you are putting down. Beth

Very clever. :) Beth

Ok, so how shall we set this up? Thread style or poll? Rod!~