Beth n Rod

Excellent one Eric! Rod!~

This was discussed in another thread lately. Have a look. http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/wood-cleaning-restoration-decks-fences-etc/10534-experienced-woodies-question.html :lgwave: Rod!~

Wood Tux. It will last longer. Beth

That is typical. Rod!~

We have a crew at a repeat clients house right now, applying Wood Tux for a rush request. This client is a high profile banker, who loves to entertain. He has like 60 people coming tomorrow at 2pm. We sent the "classic" pails out with the crew this morning, they are sealing as I type, and we are confident that not only will it be dry tomorrow, but if we get those thunderstorms this afternoon (looks like a good chance we will), it's not an issue. Thank you Russell, for bringing back the 'classic". It makes a difference. Beth

On the contrary though, his books have become internationally acclaimed. Great reading. Rod!~

Here's one of my personal favorites.... Ladies and Gentlemen, take my advice. Pull down your pants, and slide on the ice! - Dr. Sidney Freeman, character on M*A*S*H Beth

No, we didn't get anything till the afternoon and then some rain overnight. Puts us a little behind due to the decks being wet but we can seal later in the am. Rod!~

You may also run short on the supply hose. I have 125' which helps to get to most faucets around the homes. Ambitious service mind you but a good model considering you are going to do replacement of deteriorated wood. This will set you apart from others who are not visibly offering that service. One contradiction is in using a 3000psi+ machine only to drop the pressure down to your specs of 500-700psi. While you may find the high pressure useful in other wash situations the rest is overkill. Just an observation. In the event you do not plan to use the machines full psi capabilities, I would suggest that you buy a unit with a higher gpm pump and <1500psi along with a supply tank of around 185 gallons to help supply the unit. More water speeds up cleaning. The set up listed as is will do fine but I would recommend adding a couple of longer lances for reaching behind bushes and so forth. Also to aid in avoiding getting so dirty from the splash back that occurs when you are washing close to the ground. my .02 Rod!~

Stripping will not do any good in my opinion, since the pressure treatment is in the wood, not on the wood. Over time, with subsequent cleanings and weathering cycles, more of the treatment that is in the wood will leach out. Depending on the treatment, this may be seen as a green patina like you see on weathered copper. Give the deck a light percarbonate wash, lightly neutralize it, and seal it. Sooner is better. Do not let it age. I suggest Wood tux. We did this very thing on our own deck a few years ago when it was built. Looked great, held up, and protected the wood. Shane is correct. You may need to perform maintenance sooner the first time on the floor, but after that you should fall into a regular maintenance pattern. Beth

I have had to rip a little off the sides to make new ones fit as well. Then I use a router with a 1/2" round bit to round over the ripped edge to make it match. Rod!~

Just wanted to see what others thought on this subject as it has been brought to my attention that some people prefer different things especially on nextel phones. Some think it is better to send a chirp and wait for a response while others like to send an alert. While it may not be a problem to just introduce your call and state your name some may feel that is imposing more and distractive. Not everyone has a nationwide direct connect plan and the cost could be extra for those who don't so it may be cheaper for those concerned to just call instead. What do you think? Rod!~

Database had the hiccups today. All better now. :) Beth

Hi Steve! How are you? Hope you are well! Beth

We began using Wood Tux this season on hardwoods. Before that we were using Cabot's Australian Timber Oil. Beth

To act in anger, without control and discipline, to have no forbearance, is to be defeated. -Don Juan Rod!~

You can clean it like you would other woods, but do not expect the finish you apply to last as long as on softer woods. Beth

It can happen (warping/cupping) if the boards are cuts that are prone to this kind of dynamic change. I had kept a few from a reskinning job we did for just that reason. Problem was, not many really want used lumber or aged lumber. They want new and so we oblige. Even though the boards look obvious when new comparatively to the old, it is a better thing to replace bad ones than try to age new ones. It takes up what is called cash flow and becomes unnecessary inventory IMBO. Rod!~

Maybe this thread would shed some light... http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/chemicals-safety/6547-hd-80-mixing-instructions.html You will need more than just a regular sodium hydroxide stripper on that deck. Beth

And...it's not. And this is why we asked the question. Here's another question for all of you. Does this thread belong in the forum for product reviews, Q&A and issues? Let me know. It's title...says yes to me. Beth

Jim, We do that too...with Wood Tux. Beth

There has not been a product buildup with WT in our services. The only thing that comes close to what you may regard as build up is the amount of product that stays in the wood. That is the cured part, the excess above the surface comes off in the wash. Each application is more rich than the last but not to the point of a similar product by sikkens where the product builds on the surface to form the protective layers. I can see your point though. But if you are going to that extreme, you might as well join the RS crowd. lol I do not have any interest in trying the timber oil as it has no market here. People want a lasting product with only the need to maintain it every couple of years and that is the minimum most are willing to accept. But what is it you like so much?: The ease of application? The frequency of service? Or the ease of maintenance...or any combination of the aforementioned? You have always sounded like a very intelligent tradesman and I enjoy your posts. I have to ask you this... What do your customers want? What is the minimum they are willing to accept? What separates you from your competition? We all look for something that makes our lives easier but I have learned that it is not always better just because it is easy. We have based our methods of application on the premise that they conform to these 3 conditions: 1. They do not compromise the appearance. 2. They do not create a hazardous environment. 3. They do not lend to premature product failure. Conforming to these conditions required that the product be predictable in results based upon acceptable application methods without the need to alter the formulation. Many products available specify on the label "Do not thin this product". The majority of them require back-brushing after any type of application method in order to attend to any drips, runs, laps that can be encountered in the process. My point is simply this: If the labeling requires something in specific from the applicator, are you looking for a product that performs with the minimal amount of effort on the applicators part or are you looking to eliminate any specific steps? I look at the steps you mentioned and can see you would achieve an outstanding result with it. I am impressed that you can offer such a detailed service because our clientele will not justify the price in lieu of the other contractors who offer more affordable solutions with store bought products. That is the reason why I asked the questions. You have an above average service as it is by applying in a two-step system. Rod!~

My info may be a little outdated by about 30 years but for the sake of info anyway: The driller I knew of had a flat fee to come out and set up and begin drilling. He charged by the section of pipe depth (usually 15') and back then it was $115/section and they had to drill 185' to hit water. So with that in mind, it was around $1500 before the set up charges. Of course, this was in Arizona mind you and they had to drill through caliche (calcified bedrock) to get to it. Depending on where you live geographically and the current water table levels, you may be fortunate to not have to go very deep, but be prepared to have it go at least 100'-185' depending upon your areas land relief and rises. Have a surveyor come out. They have plenty of information on surrounding wells that have been completed and the current lay of the land that contains underground springs or chambers they have mapped out. Rod!~

Health and happiness to your family Scott. :) Congratulations! Rod!~

Did you check to see if this guy was licensed or insured? 20 minutes including set up and tear down? Right. (shakes head) Beth