Beth n Rod

Well I hate to see that happen to anyone. A week seems to me to be enough time on an order that was conveyed as a rush, assuming it was in stock. We have gotten in the habit over the years of keeping certain things on hand to avoid that situation, but sometimes you just need something when you need it, you never know what opportunity will pop up and put you in that situation. It does happen. That's why they call them rush jobs. Beth

Daniel, We are interested in the results you get. Keep us posted. :) Beth

You mean... Pau Lope Pau Lope Decking - The World's Finest Decking We have a couple deck and a porch we maintain built with this. Beth

Ok, go tinker with the acids and let us know what you turn up. Rod!~

I'd be moving. Maybe that goes to show how much freedom some people don't have. Rod!~

oh, that's not right. :eek: Rod!~

Rick, Sorry! I misread it. I thought he was saying the two acids would separate from one another after being mixed together. Well, I guess it is time for more coffee for me... :cup: :cup: Didn't mean to confuse things... Beth

And how does gravity prevail? Unless you are applying with a more precise method like a brush, the two will blend where they meet. Rod!~

Sorry, been busy this week and a little behind on the threads. But I still like to ask questions when someone asks about doing something in a new way. Innovation is what it is called and some great ideas come out of it and I was just trying to find out what your 'theory' was. Rod!~

We have been using a blend of citric and oxalic for years, and the decks we do never, ever neutralize/brighten unevenly due to this. Ever. It just doesn't happen. Beth :cup:

How did you come up with that one James? They are talking about 2 acids mixed and dissolved into the same solution. From what I remember in chemistry, the compound does not formalize into two separate bleaching reactions but one where the pH is balanced between the combination of the two and the result is even. Rod!~

Ok, pursuing that logic regarding Ipe', now how about these questions: 1. What difference do you think it will make a few mils further down? 2. Does your thinking entertain the possibility that the wood is less dense or more open further down than at the current surface as it has been prepared? 3. Are there any more or less extractives a few mils deeper? 4. What is the process going to have to do to effect a few mils deep? 5. If using a stronger acid to 'open' up the pores (which are primarily in hardwoods, Soft-woods have capillaries) and keeping in mind the pores are extremely small and shallow, do you think the color will last longer as a result? 6. Given the fact that most extractives are impermeable to begin with and give the wood it's natural resistance to decay and insect repellancy, do you think that you can limit the depth of the acids activity and still have a surface that will hold a stain? 7. Do you think the wood that is left after your process will still have any integrity to last longer than otherwise? 8. After considering the previous questions, do you still think it is a viable option? Rod!~

Welcome to TGS! Beth

The reason for these questions, is I am doing research for an article I am writing. Anyone who wishes to participate and share their experiences is welcome to do so. Beth

Around here there are "Minute Men" who hang out where the day labor congregates making note of anyone who goes looking for workers. Also....There have been offices scheduled to open that have not done so to help these people (some of whom really are here legally) to look for work. The proposed offices have met with such hostility and political unrest that they have not been able to open. Of course we are right near DC, so everything gets pretty heated here. Beth

washingtonpost.com - nation, world, technology and Washington area news and headlines US Immigration officials arrest 62 at pork plant - washingtonpost.com Immigration Probe Targets Ill. Company - washingtonpost.com washingtonpost.com - nation, world, technology and Washington area news and headlines immigration raids - Google News washingtonpost.com Beth

Oh, I'm sure it's not real.... nah...couldn't be real.... washingtonpost.com Beth p.s. see Form I-9 link

About Form I-9, Employment Eligibility Verification http://www.uscis.gov/files/form/i-9.pdf Hope these help. Beth

Same thing I was referring to earlier on I suspect....when you have a new ipe deck, it is better to let it sit and age, let it naturally grey and get that silver patina prior to cleaning and sealing it for the first time. You get better product penetration due to the wood being drier. We tend to let ipe age 6 months to a year (we suggest it - not all homeowners listen to the advice however) before the initial cleaning and sealing. We would suggest this on teak furniture as well. However we do not suggest this for PT, cedar or redwood. Beth

I agree! Beth

We're having upload troubles...bear with us. I'll post when they are resolved. Beth

Welcome to TGS! Beth

We have been caring for ipe for years. You won't get two years on it. You simply can't change the physical characteristics of the wood enough to do so (in my silly little ipe loving girly girl opinion). Good luck with your tests. One thing I have heard people talk about but have not done myself, is to seal the wood, then lightly sand it to etch the surface, then seal it again to give better adhesion. This is akin to what is done with furniture finishing. It makes some sense given the density of the wood, but again, have not tried it. Beth

I would rather suggest to an owner to let ipe age 6 months to a year before doing anything. This accomplishes the same thing as you are trying to do with the acid. It has worked for us on woods such as ipe and teak. Beth

You don't want to remove the extractives any more than you have to. I don't think it will lengthen the life of any product significantly to do so. If you put so much acid on an ipe deck that you run a red river off of it, you just went way too far in my opinion. Less is better for the wood, not more. Beth