Beth n Rod

I can relate. Many people try to spell our name "C dirt run" We have to say "you know, like see **** and jane run up the hill" Some still don't get it and get hooked on the letter C. :lgbonk: See what acronyms are doing to us? Rod!~

no pic??Regardless, then this would be the answer in that the formula has changed. Before, at 8oz/gal efc-38 would not strip it but clean it quite well. The recoat would be very rich. If it is that easy to strip now using a beefed up percarbonate then I can assume it will not last as long as the old formula before the VOC laws forced reformulations. Thanks. Seems our enthusiasm has segway'd this off topic so... Now, back on topic for sealer composition Rod!~

Russ, We have done and seen many things in the field and as you are fully aware have removed and applied many finishes. Perhaps rather than doubting, it would be best to embrace the information. In some cases more information may be available than in other cases. This is unfortunate but is reality. Not everyone will understand to get information. Most homeowners would not know to do this and neither would some contractors...others will. We get what information we can. Also you said wood tux would never crack or peel. http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/look-whats-new/4513-wood-tux-wet-faq.html We have seen it do this under a very specific set of circumstances as well. There was a deck which a homeowner burned with a store bought chemical containing bleach. He poured it straight onto the deck. We restored the deck, and when we went back to look at it two years later, a very very small area, about the size of a quarter was peeling. The rest of the deck looked fine. As we reviewed the deck, it hit us (we had before shots at the office of where the product burns were and we reviewed them) that the one place it cracked and peeled was where there was a burn. It did happen. There are conditions that can create problems, and that's the bottom line. This does not take away from Wood Tux as a product at all, but it may help another contractor who experiences a fluke instance to see and perhaps understand what they are facing. Beth :cool: p.s. it amazes me how Behr continues to effect wood even after a really solid stripping job....

That interesting. We quit using Olympic products unless by request of the customer. Our problems were in application after behr being installed. The wood never looks as good clean or with another product on it in our experience. Rod!~

I am giving you something to be aware of due to a couple of our customers who had this problem. (see quote above in blue) We deal with wtw daily and love the results. When Russell first debuted this product it was fulfilling all our product requirements and one being that it didn't have to be stripped in order to maintain it. It was known to be difficult to remove at the time of application so we made sure to qualify our customers selection before hand. Penetration has not been an issue although I admit that rs will penetrate ad infinitum. Not the same design of course but considering a lack of a drier in the rs formulation and the requirement of a surface free of any barriers to penetration (like so many other products) it may not be suitable after having wtw applied. Do a test patch to investigate further. I don't know of your methods and how thorough you are since you have an aversion to caustic strippers so I am just relaying my cautions. You know what you can do and if you feel you can get wtw off thoroughly then by all means proceed. I myself am adverse to stripping in general and is why I work hard to convince our clients that once they go with our product to stay with it and avoid exposing their wood to the unnecessary stripping associated with changing products which can speed up the aging process as you may likely agree. Rod!~

Knock it off Jeff and get back to work...:whip: Just keep everyone in line and nobody gets hurt! ;) Rod!~

A word of note: If you are going back to RS after having WTW installed, you may not get the same penetration you once did with RS. It may stay on top and get tacky. Just playing Devils Advocate. You may find you will have an easier time of it just recoating with wtw. I know how adverse you are to using a NAOH stipper so I am putting that out there for your consideration.Rod!~

Exactly. Ken got it. Beth

Thats too funny. Rod!~

This was from post #28 Don't fear the maintenance with wtw. Just clean it focusing on the horizontals. The rails may exhibit some environmental staining which cleans easily. A percarbonate or efc-38 (even better) will do the trick. Just neutralize afterwards. Recoat but expect to use less product. We experience a 30% product savings on recoats.Does this help? Rod!~

I like Scott's thinking better. Don't box yourself in. In fact, if you do it, your competition may undercut you. I would rather not drive all over town with my price on the side. But that's just me. Beth

Just as a heads up, some of you have asked how often you have to accept the rules. The way the software works, you will only need to accept them one time per forum. Once this is done, it won't ever bother you again, unless we make a major rule change, which is not in the plans at all. Thanks for your patience as we continue to improve the site. Beth :groovy3:

Well, not having pressure washing or power washing in our name has not hurt us at all. People tell us it is catchy and memorable. My suggestion is have a logo that fits the name. I visualize a house getting a huge wet splash of water. The house might have a look on it's face that conveys a certain emotion. For example, Happy because it is getting washed bracing itself - here comes the water shocked - didn't see it coming Being different can work. Sometimes being the same loses you in the crowd. Just my thoughts.... Beth

CARLOS!!! :lol: made ya look! btw----TAG! ur it~ Rod!~

The primary reason we wash any and all wood before sealing is because of the exposure. Wood being installed is not pristine and in some cases it may have also been immersed in a 4-6% wax solution to protect it while being warehoused and in transit. Once lumber gets to the job site for installation, it has been exposed to road debris, exhaust fumes, humidity, pollen and spores. These elements need to be removed in order to get the best look and performance out of the product being installed. If not removed, these elements can interact with the sealers ingredients and create color changes along with the sealer migration below the surface taking these elements deeper into the wood with it. If the product does not contain sufficient mildewcides, the problem can be exacerbated by application alone. The most important reason to do it is because your companies reputation is being built upon each and every job you do. The results speak for themselves and the person making a decision on whether or not to hire you will depend highly on what they see you produce. Time will also be either your friend or foe based upon how well you do the job. This is the way we approach each and every job because our business and the family it supports depends on it. We left corporate america because we were tired of being other less scrupulous people's stepping stones. In our business we have the chance each and every day to make things better without anyone holding us back. Now, regarding price. This is something of a grey area and the ways people go about it are different. Some price by the linear foot, others by the sqft and will base the price upon one side or both sides of the fence being cared for. Delco has a guide to start from: I hope this helps.Rod!~

You also have to consider what you are allowed to ask for as a deposit. Be careful. If your state requires licensing (ours does) then you might want to check before you establish your deposit amount. In Maryland, we are allowed to ask for up to 1/3 down. It's important to do this, because if you end up with an unhappy customer who decides to make problems for you, and they say "well, XYZ Company asked for half down" and the law says you can't, it just looks worse for you. Cover yourself and check before you take a deposit. Try your State agency that governs home improvements...they should have your answer.... More coffee....:cup: Beth

Git'er Done!!! :lol: Rod!~

Tom, Call me and I can explain one method of thumbnails to you. Once you have the code piece you need, just copy and paste and change file names. Beth

Don't forget to take your....anyone...anyone....X-JET! Beth :seeya:

J-Rod, I don't care how much you want them, I'm not giving up all the green colored M&M's! ;) Those are my favorites. Beth :groovy:

Ok Jarrod, here's your key to the Executives bathroom. [*]=~~ Rod!~

Warm honey gold is our favorite out of the can Wood Tux color. ;) Beth

I don't see you doing that any time soon either... no doubt you'll pop in and post. ;) Directing time and energy can only be positive. Focus is a good thing! Beth

Sorry Rick, didn't mean to offend. Just sharing what I have read. I dread working on decks coated with the stuff. The wood never looks as clean and bright again and the stain goes dark again because of what is left in the wood. Strippers won't remove it if it was the first product installed on the wood. That part I think has to do with some other ingredient in their product of which I have no clue. I apply warm honey gold and get yuck honey brown. Trying to sand the wood is a bugger to say the least (hardened wood) and if I don't get below 6mils the darkening will show through. Rod!~

Looks like it's coming along well. I have a couple of pieces of feedback for you. all background should be the same if you use a pattern, or maybe have one white and one with a pattern or a color. Too many patterns make it look cluttered ( just my opinion) I would remove the games. This is your business where clients come...here on TGS we are fellow contractors, but when your client comes to your site, they want to see what your company is about and what excellent services you offer. Don't detract from your level of excellence. Again just my opinion.... Beth :)