Beth n Rod

I've never been to one, but if I were in to fleets and cars, I might say yes. Beth

An excellent and inspirational thread. :) Nothing to add, except this is the stuff I love to see. We all help each other here folks, we help each other become sucessful and realize our dreams. Many hands (and minds) make easy the work!! Beth p.s. the new TGS logo pretty much says it all ;)

Yes. HD-80, F-18 or Timberstrip Pro would all work better. Been there....done that. Beth

What ^ he said! :) Rod!~

I'm glad to see this thread in the new forum. :) Thank you Wayne for starting the thread. Beth

Find an opaque container that you can add product to. Also you will need a scale that measures ounces. Add product to the container and weigh at 2pz intervals and mark the container. Do this until you have a full container with measure lines incremented on it. The oxalic may need to be neutralized by adding an alkaline detergent to even out the spots you mentioned. Do a test spot first before you apply to the whole side. It may have been too strong to begin with. Rod!~

I use a soap tip on the end of my extension wand. Unless you are dropping the pressure considerably the pressure could be high enough to cause the condition I previously posted. Just something to consider. Rod!~

Well, come to think of it you did dress like the bleach bandito that one time... hmmmm.... Beth

Jim, That is a great idea! Beth

Then apply an acid to neutralize then rinse thoroughly. Overkill. Use one or the other but apply an acid afterwards for neutralization.I'll let Russell answer the question pertaining to WTW blending old to new wood. Rod!~

Then I would say Keith nailed it on the head, because Dragnet was the example I used. After all, Grime Scene and Crime Scene...the site was named for that play on words and with a detective theme in mind.... Beth

This is the org we are working with... http://www.onourownmd.org/ We have our location and project scheduled and it is right around the corner. I'll post pics once we do it. Anyone else? Beth

Reminder.... Now that we have a new logo...the "default" skin has changed, but you can choose whatever skin or look you like. Follow the above steps. Enjoy! And please vote, so we can continue to improve TGS. Thanks! Beth :cup: :cup: :sunshine:

That's a shame Ron. It's actually a few days before, but the haunted tours and the Halloween themed night at Busch Gardens are Halloween fun for all ages. Beth

Bill, We have been members of PWNA since 1999, and have also been through the wood restoration program. Both the membership and the certification have helped our business to grow and thrive. The org is not perfect ( nothing in life is), and is made up of volunteers. Nothing in life is perfect and the old saying about you get out of things what you put into them is true. If you simply pay your dues and wait for good fortune, you may get a smaller return on your investments. You need to market your membership and network with the members. Hope this helps...I now return myself to my early morning coffee..... :cup: Beth

Rick, if you look at the posts Ed made you'll see I agreed with him. Sorry you lost your post. So do you like the logo? Beth

Flood has a product for doing this and more called 'RESTORA'. I would not recommend using pressure that high on siding especially vinyl and aluminum. The design will not allow the water that is forced behind the siding to escape without cascading behind it and wicking up into the sub-structure which can cause mold problems that will not become evident for a long time after you have left and can be expensive to remediate. I have used a 2 step cleaning process on aluminum involving and acid pre-wet followed by an alkaline detergent wash and then rinsed. Brushing helps well with this. On vinyl, Sodium Hydroxide works well to remove oxidation but brushing is required in most cases. A wax application helps to slow the future onset of this problem or you could your Flood's products to get yourself a sweet $$$$ ticket on restoring siding. Oxidation Removal is ale carte in our services. Mostly our clients just want the mildew and algae removed. Rod!~

Rick, reread the post. There are several factors being covered. No matter which 'bleach' you choose to use, there are always drawbacks. The man asked for advice now let him make up his own mind according to what he feels is necessary. This is not going to do what you say it is and is exaggerated. You also left out the neutralization part which stops the action of SH. Dwell time is important, concentration is important but it is not going to do what you are claiming if he follows the guidelines I have listed. I don't believe he said this was the case. I mentioned the possibility of a wax coating being present on new wood which a percarb will not effect. You should elaborate on how this is done then since Doug is considering 1 of 2 different sealers. No, but this helps limit the sharp contrast. It's a suggestion based upon what I have learned how to do and it works quite well. Responsibility is in letting someone know exactly what the process will do and I believe I was quite clear. Doug will let us know if he has any further questions. In the meantime... You have your method and I have mine and based upon what customers ask us to do and our educating them as to the possible detriments of ANY chemical being applied to wood new or old is prudent. What I have described for Doug was a technique for blending old with new. It keeps the color from being so sharp against the older wood next to it. Furniture restoration technicals will describe many bleaching methods available for accomplishing this and more. These are options that are no worse than using straight bleach and water. I suggest a cool shower, the heat is getting to us all. Rod!~

Rick, Rod is not talking about heavy duty stripping on the wood. He's talking about a very light duty bath, with low concentrations and low pressure. Works like a charm. Beth

Wash the new wood with a SH mix and acid bath afterwards. This opens the structure up to accept sealant. It also removes any wax that has been applied to keep it from weathering while in transit from mill to warehouse/lumber outlet to construction. Many lumber mfr's use a 3-6% wax solution to help protect the wood during this time. It would be a barrier against sealant penetration. The SH / Acid phase helps to chemically age the wood to keep it from being such a drastic difference compoared to the older UV aged wood. Rod!~

Met with them the other day, will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the lead. :) Beth p.s. Aj it's a building wash

Let's see if we can narrow this down....select a choice for The Grime Scene's Round Table event! We have to know where to plan to hold this... Beth

Hey - next year when we hold the second round table for TGS, we'll have to throw a Florida location into the ring for a vote. I love palm trees. ;) Beth

Please vote :)

Ok....we need to get busy planning this event.... Looks like Williamsburg is the winner. Look for more details to follow. Beth :cup: