Beth n Rod

We do not like acrylics, because when they fail eventially (all products do at some point) then removing them is very difficult. They can easily become a cracking peeling mess. Beth

1st off, I would keep a pump up for a back up. Now that that little suggestion has proven to be somewhat of a limerick I shall attend to your other questions. Both AC and DC have their benefits but the most common are the ones associated with DC. DC allows you to be independent of other power sources and work without interruption or delay. For example, if you are using an AC sprayer on a job and the outlet gets hit with a spray and pops the circuit breaker and no one is there, you are stuck with the pump up for a back up. (that limerick again) AC units don't go dead on you after not being charged properly or after a full days use. They are lighter than a DC unit due to the lack of a Deep Cycle Marine battery. We use two units, each has a different power supply (ie, one is AC the other is DC) In wood restoration, we send the AC unit to a job to apply chems with along with a pump up for the neutralizer after the wash. When we seal, we send out the DC unit. This way we don't have to worry about the circuit being popped for using them, only for using a sander and blower do we need AC power. We use plunger pumps on our units and they work fine for applying chems and sealers. I have a Shurflo unit too with a viton diaphragm pump but it keeps popping circuit breakers (troubleshooting this one next). It works fine but is only good for chems due to its rating (60psi, 1.2gpm) Our plunger pumps are rated up to 225psi, 1.5gpm and come with a pressure regulator for changes according to need. Hope this helps... Rod!~

Depending upon what is currently on the siding will determine the chemical(s) necessary for paint prep washing. Mildew is easily removed with Bleach and a detergent. Oxidation can be removed by using Phosphoric acid as a first step followed quickly by a caustic detergent making a complete 2 step system. Some brushing may be necessary in areas where oxidation is stubborn. Thorough rinsing in any event will give the best results for paint application. I also use a butyl/sodium hydroxide based detergent in my mix to remove any paint that is questionable. Yes this effects the paint currently residing on the siding but that is getting painted afterwards. This in effect is another form of etching to get the paint which originally was bonded by anodizing to accept another on top creating better adhesion. Low pressure should be used in order to avoid a large introduction of water behind the siding which could take days to dry out and cause water damage and create a mold problem that is undetectable for years until it is a major health detriment. Rod!~

Yep...they have that here too. My son fits into the spectrum as well. Beth

Great job Jarrod! Bet you can't stand pigeons now.... Beth

Snapped this pick on a job where we replaced a floor. This is a good example of CA leaching out of the new wood. Enjoy. Beth

It's the pressure treatment in the wood. Copper Azole (CA). Beth

I would agree that at times it can inhibit our ability to communicate effectively and make a clear point. That in itself is frustrating. Beth

We have to file a DBA (Doing Business As) and wait for approval in the event someone else is using the name. Then there was the incorporating and filing for a Federal EIN (Employer Identification Number) and then applying for a business license, taking an exam, submitting proof of insurance, credit report and paying the fee. We took it further and applied for a federal trademark on the name which took about a year to get. Maryland is on the cusp of DC and so everything is very beauracraticly red taped. Rod!~

Here's a thought for debate...Do you have a minimum where this type of job request is concerned? Many of us won't roll out till there is X dollars coming in. Would your rate be able to survive the size of the job and make it worth taking? Rod!~

It speaks highly of a company to get repeat business. For us it is reassuring and helps enforce the fact that we are doing something right. Rod!~ btw, the job looks sweet! :cool:

Yooohoooo Celeste and Roger....you reading this? We avoid cedar shake roofs. Beth

Very sharp looking! Great job Jarrod! :dancing: Beth

But do use the primer they make - problem solver - it rocks. Beth

Cabot. Only solid we like. Beth

8 oz/gal for about 15 minutes. Use a terry cloth towel to agitate. Rod!~

We use pre-taped plastic and blue painters masking tape. Works well for us. On brick anything is useless unless it is a movable shield. Rod!~

Unless you are doing the backstroke, the satellites cannot see your face to identify you.JK :) Rod!~

Some cases, people only need it on one side due to a tree that provides the environment for this problem. The rest of the house may be mostly free of mildew and not necessarily needing anything. The only perspective I would pursue is overall maintenance of the siding which manufacturers recommend on a regular basis. We have set a 2-3 year period for regular cleaning to help remove oxidation, mildew and other pollutants which can degrade the appearance of their siding. Many Whites, Greens and Blue colored siding are all subject to oxidation more so than others because of the composition of the color base 'Titanium Dioxide' which is susceptible to UV damage and oxidizes more readily. All you can do is educate them. It is their budget and their choice on how to spend their money to maintain their investment. My last line is "What do you want it to look like in 10-15 years? What you do between now and then will determine it" Rod!~

EFC-38 will take off overspray from a vehicle. It will need waxing afterwards but it will do the job, just don't let it dry on the windows. Also, use a 4" scraper blade on the windows and windshields to get the stain off. Works like a charm. Rod!~

We typically run our decker at about 100 to 150 PSI. You might need to add a touch of water or spirits if you are looking for a certain...oh gosh for a lack of better description...spray viscosity. Make sense? Beth

Bill, Don't mind the fog in my head. It's due to the lack of coffee in my tummy. Having said that, I'll say we tend to use WTW out of the pail for the most part. Sometimes we will apply it wet, but mainly we apply it to dry wood. When applying it to wet wood we don't have to add anything. When applying it to dry wood we don't have to add anything. If we wanted to reduce the color so to speak, we could add either water or mineral spirits. I hope this helps. Beth :cup: going on... :cup: p.s. use it, get used to it, then work on using it wet or cut with water....one step at a time...know what I mean?

We used Wolman's F&P prior to using Wood Tux four years ago. We'll never go back to it. Wood Tux delivers a superior looking result that lasts longer. Customers of ours who we have switched from F&P to WT say the deck looks better now than the first time we did it with F&P. Beth :cup: :groovy3:

In one case, it was due to ground contact and was on the leg of a chair. The chair sat in a garden shop, and had soil that was moist frequently beneath the legs. Only one rotted sightly. In the other case, it was on a high end teak bench (sofa type seat) and was part of a rather pricey well known collection. It sat under trees on a north side was heavily shaded, and had a good amount of mildew and algae. The rot, was underneath, that is to say where the seat connected to the frame which was sort of odd...it was low enough to the ground to get some splash up. Also, like in example one there was lots of soil...not grass. Only other thing I'll add about teak, is when we were on a cruise, we had the opportunity to see the teak benches they had up on the deck. These benches are pressure washed every week or so. That was the first time I have ever seen horribly raised grain on teak....it was sad...the ship was less than two years old and the benches were very sad... Beth

No. We actually prefer to apply it dry...call it force of habit if you like... Coating will go from opaque to semi-trans as it sets up... But question 1. is No. We spray and back pad. You could also spray and brush, just brush or just pad. Any will work. It's a matter of preference. Beth