Beth n Rod

Commercial: Single largest building - new hotel Largest multi-building project - condo complex Residential: HUGE Cedar home

Looks like he wrote it in Ready Seal (after all they say it is goof proof). Notice how silver the wood looks from the bleach...hmmmmm..... Beth

We love referrals! :sunshine: Beth

Post a thumbnail pic of your biz card, front and back if you do so. Rod!~

We do. Click the little button that says ABC and has a check mark under those letters, in the upper right of the reply box. Beth

We get a great deal of requests for repair and carpentry these days and I was curious what others who feel comfortable to share the rate range they may charge. We are in the 65+/hr + materials range, does that seem low? We perform custom requests for enhancements and upgrades to screens, rails, lighting etc... What does anyone else do? Rod!~

Are you planning to go to one of the conventions? If so which one(s)? Beth

You can post stuff like this in the regional forum and you can put it on the bbs calendar too. :) Rod!~

Thanks, This is helpful. Rod!~

It also has a "shelf-life" in the pail unmixed (dry) of 6-9 months. Rod!~

Ken, Check out the vendors here listed under the FAQ button There are a number or reputable ones. Robert Williamson Russ Johnson Tom Vogel Pete Marentay Larry Hinckley All these guys are straight up great to work with. Beth

Thank you Steve R! Beth

When it comes to acrylics, it's fate is not always in the hands of the installer. Homeowner neglect and misleading expectations of durability/longevity are a major reason why we (the contractors) are confronted with the problematic decks. Lack of knowledge of the proper conditions necessary for application and success of the finish is often overlooked in relation to the expectations of the product. This is an issue for contractors to be aware of and education along with experience will be the best teacher. --Acrylics are comprised of thermoplastic resins. They are adversely affected by heat, UV, and prolonged cold such as snow covering and ice. --Acrylics should not be used in the northern latitudes where cold conditions exist for more than 3-4 months out of each year. --Acrylics should not be used on decks with little or no clearances underneath for airflow. A deck with less than 2' airflow clearance is prone to retain more soil moisture and that moisture effects the wood surrounding it. By 'Capillary attraction' wood will retain the moisture and have a higher expansion/contraction rate. --Acrylics should not be used on older decks that exhibit cracks with a width of more than 8-10mils. Using an acrylic on wood in this condition is like putting a splitting wedge into these cracks and letting natural expansion/contraction create larger ones. Plus, there is no definite way to ensure that the wood is completely sealed inside these cracks and therefore may be compromised by moisture being absorbed at these points. --Acrylics do not have anywhere near the same thermal coefficient as wood and is the primary reason for failure. I.e. Acrylics cannot move with the wood at the same rate. Overall IMPO, acrylics should not be used on a deck with full exposure to weather and sun. Screen porches, covered porches do well in most circumstances because the shelter limits wet/dry exposure and UV compromisation. Learning the basics about a component of a sealer helps a would be contractor/installer to determine suitability for the product and help their client get the most for their money and even save them money in the end by recommending the appropriate product that will perform well for their unique situations. Rod!~

check to see if they actually installed the ventury nozzle. Rod!~

I'm glad to hear you don't moon it too! :lol: Sorry, JK. Spring is here and we've started up for a week now. We use a glass mop and various sized squeegee's (Ettore') and Glass cleaner from Daycon (local jani supply co.) Mostly on log and wood sided home restorations. Rod!~

Research, practice and a natural curiosity about wood. The USDA forestry labs has an introspecting guide to wood and all its characteristics and the many different species. Understand that there are many commonly used types of wood for exterior surfaces and some not so common. Go to a lumber supply store(s) and check out what is currently stocked on their shelves. Ask questions and take notes. This will give you a good idea of what you will find commonly in your area. Rod!~

Rick nailed it on the acrylics. Beautifully written, and I agree. Wood Tux is not paraffinic though...that's my only correction. Russ Cissell should chime in there. Beth

Ken, The results do not surprise me. ;) You rock. :dancing: Beth

Hey Matt, Download that 400 page bad boy from USDA Forest Labs and have a good read. There are sections we refer to from time to time. Also go to your local Borders or whatever the big book store you have is, and get a coffee (ours has a coffee shop in it) and look at the wood working books. There are some really good titles out there. Many are construction based, but there are some that have good info on various species, and offer a good understanding of the properties of wood. Now you might think I am really weird here (I'll go out on that limb I don't care) but go to a lumber yard (no not Lowe's or HD, a real one) and get a little of each wood. Get PT lumber, cedar, redwood, teak, ipe and anything else they have and take it home to play with it. Study the grain, the texture, the weight, the color, the smell, as you read from that 400 pages of light reading from Forest Labs. Now let it age, and then at some point wash it and seal it and then leave it out to age. This is a fun lesson in the differences in wood. Beth

I feel your pain brother! When we started up, there was little to nothing out there (internet) on wood restoration and what was available was in the form of advice from what I now know as labels from various products. Beth was on the internet searching while I was out working. Soon, she came upon PWNA and told me about it. We became members in August '99 and we went to the 1st convention in Oct. '99. In 2000, I took the test and certified. Soon after, Beth started finding BBS's and looking for information on them. Much information was scattered and convoluted with various pissing matches and testosterone fanatics. In 2002 we launched TGS. Our goal was to provide a better, more organized on-line archive of information for people just like you and me who need to find answers quick despite any other training that is available. The current schools that are being offered by various entities are often taught by those who have been in the business long enough to know their salt. People like (alphabetically listed) Everett Abrams, Russell Cissell, Pete Marentay have backgrounds and experience that lend themselves to the art of wood restoration on many levels. They are in my professional opinion wood guru's and frankly the most public ones. If there are any others, please take no offense as I speak of those who have publicly offered training in any form. Whether it be from PWNA, Sunbrite or WRAPI that you get training, each will give you a valuable insight into wood restoration and the proverbial wood bible you will be looking for. http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/faq.php The link also has quick FAQ's on wood restoration that we provide for instant access, let me know what you think? I hope this has helped. (blasted site...really~ :winkanim: ) Rod!~

Kevin, Please go to your User CP (button is located upper left) and add your signature. Thank you. Beth

ok...go for it. Rod!~

Check out the vendor forums for more info. Rod!~

Run Norton anti-virus scans on any of those emails from here on out. Just in case. ;) Rod!~

Why do you ask? The Tide is a bit strong (1 cup does a full load of laundry 25-30 gals) Awning cleaners are like carpet shampoo's which are full of surfactants and low sudsing agents (some). That particular awning didn't look like it was that bad from the angle. 1 cup of bleach in a solution should be fine for the microbial problems. I keep in mind that vinyl has a sealer on it and if the cleaner is too strong, it will damage it and cause the awning to fade and become brittle. You may need to add a sealer anyway depending on the condition of the awning and previous maintenance practices. Rod!~