Beth n Rod

Rich, You are so right! If you can take off the tough as nails products most others can't, let 'em know! It does make a difference. Beth

If thats the case Jon, then I am glad the networking here could help you in the process. Thanks for the praise but I feel I am still learning like everyone else here and am glad to share what I can for others to benefit from. Rod!~

I agree...rinsing is key. Just my opinion, always rinse. Beth

I'll ask Russ Cissell to chime in here... Beth

Hi Jarrod, We encourage you to contact one of the vendor's listed here: http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/faq.php?faq=new_faq_item800 There is a list of vendors who support these forums and also provide excellent service and support, as well as great prices on the products you need. I know at least 3 of them carry the x-Jet M-5. In alphabetical order they are: Pressure Tek Southside Equipment Sun Brite Supply Beth

It needs maintenance every year in order to keep it looking its best. At least thats what we see up north here. The wood on your deck seems to have been a playground for testing and who knows what was done to it. My guess is that the wood contains a significant amount of an alkaline still that lies deep in the structure which when reactivated by moisture exposure below can work its way up towards the surface (water evaporates upwards) it brings with it whatever is causing the sealer to fail so completely. Just a guess and this is giving the benefit of the doubt to the sealer that the formulation is still as good as it ever was because this seems to be an isolated incident for you. Given this, longer dwell time with an acid at higher concentration should help minimize the future occurence of this problem. Curious... Rod!~

Thank you all for your support! Beth

Address: See Dirt Run Inc 13616 Warrior Brook Terrace Germantown, Md. 20874

Jon, In troubleshooting a sealer I look at the information given here and try to understand what I am seeing in relation to your information on what has been done to the deck. By experience with SRD up north here with higher humidity conditions, it is possible that in 15 minutes the product can set up. I dont know how hot the temps were when you did it but the condition influencing the sealer is full sun and once the product starts to dry thats it...I consider that a coat. My intent is not to question you or deminish your application methods, but to adding my notes on what I have encountered and the detriments of the same scenario played out up here. Anyway, I am just noticing the fact that the deck had very little product left on it although SRD is a one year product. It is a strong point that I always evaluate products even when applied by others and the conditions so that I am aware of its capabilities or weaknesses and your posting this Q & A thread has been very helpful in that regard. Rod!~

We have 3 donations so far from this thread... Beth

Wow... We stepped out for the day and come back to this...you are all so generous. Thank you all. We're glad the forums mean so much to you. Wow.... Beth & Rod

Mike, Thank you very much for the support you have shown us here. I will check and see if you can keep the ads as well. I think having that option is a great idea. Members of TGS who contribute will get recognition in their postbit (info that shows up about you when you post in a thread) letting others know they are TGS Site Supporters. (coming soon - after the 1st of the year) Some of the costs associated with this site include: Hosting fees Software licenses and upgrades/annual fees (4 of them I think - forums, gallery, skins, and portal) Technical support for upgrades, add ons, database care, skins, hacks and more (Tech Admin) I have linked to the donations page in this thread for those who are interested. Regardless of that, we do appreciate the support our members show throughout the forums, by posting and responding to others questions. It is my personal hope that our lurkers who have never posted will give it a try from time to time here on the forums. Thank you all. Beth & Rod

We also work with others in a network. If we deviate, it is something small and simple. Beth

Depends on the rails and what you want to do there. EFC would be a great choice, stronger rather than weaker. Just my .o2... Beth

Jon, Keep in mind the formulation changes for the new voc laws. I dont know how long ago they released the new formulas but still I would take this into consideration. As for applying 2 coats to saturation is why it failed. The wood fibers were too open and allowed too much into the substrate creating a non flexible surface. SRD was not meant to be applied with more than one coat. We had a customer who did the same thing and then afterwards told us we didnt know what we were doing. He went ahead and added more to it after we had already finished the job and guess what he is in for??? More of the same and by his ignorance alone. Rod!~

Ok....I'll take a guess also... Guess is assuming a full sun deck. Can't see what the surrounding tree growth is like, and do not know what exposure the deck has. Photo doesn't contain any shadows.... Age: 3-6 years old Deck floor and rail caps are due to be serviced. Perhaps Olympic on the rails.... Grill stains appear to have been there a while. Deck boards look like they have been washed before. Pressure treated lumber..... Would feel better about this guess if I could see: shot of the whole yard know the exposure of the deck see a close up of typical floor board area could see the corner where the rail caps join more clearly to see how the boards look Beth

We like: 24, Lost, Prison Break, South Park Beth

7-10 years, Acrylic or behr brand sealer washed maybe 1-2 times. Grill stains and dry wood, checking. AT the current resolution, its hard to tell much more except that there appears to be remnants of silicone in the wood. Rod!~

Merry Christmas Everyone! Have a wonderful day and be safe. Beth & Rod

Heard that loud and clear! Alternative methods do have a place in wood restoration. Beth

Also, when using a squeege, it took me a bit to get this through my head that you just glide the blade over the glass and do not put force into the blade as you are squeeging. I had to fight back the common urge of using elbow grease in every aspect of cleaning until I actually evaluated my technique and tried some different methods. A light touch works great and saves so much time on mid blade streaks from improper contact. For the tile, try this... http://www.aldonchem.com/pr-sealer-selector-1-holder.htm Rod!~

Rabela, That is a very tough one to answer. The reason being that recent voc law changes have caused many manufacturers to reformulate. The new formulations are barely a year old for the most part and the jury is still out amongst many wood restoration professionals who evaluate their performance in stages. The first years evaluations will start this spring and more info will come out as feedback (positive of negative) starts to trickle in from customers who have structures these new formulas have been installed on and also -vs- old formulations compatability with new. As a rule though, it has been a practice to remove the previous finish if any segment of it has failed because of the UV exposure that darkens most products and the exposed wood. In relation to the new product, it would be an uneven color result because of this factor. On the other hand, if the product is still intact and has good integrity, then it is feasible to just clean and re-coat. An experienced Wood Restoration professional would be able to give you an answer after an inspection. Rod!~

We have a set mounted in our Sprinter. 2 High pressure reels and 1 Supply reel They are compact and easy to maintain. Rod~

It is really cool, but dang, trying to get the song out of your head is driving the family nuts (I'm a rocker and the best way to do it is to finish the song) :bandplay: Rod!~

Good suggestion James. That was a part of our deck plans as well. We just didnt get to the Ipe' part of it :-) Ryan, If you use 6x6's for your supports they will already be pretreated with a high concentration of acq or ca for in ground use. The ledger, joists and baseboards will be lower in concentration but still rated for ground contact purposes. Another design which looks really sharp for a rail system to go with your Ipe' is one that has Metal uprights in different finishes with 4 holes drilled in them that a cable goes through at different heights (ex. 1', 2', 3'and 4') to act as the rails. It is easily maintainable and the rails are precoated with anti-corrosive coating that keeps them looking great. Sorry, dont have a pic. You could also use Cedar as an upper and lower support rail with tubes to act as spindles. We have a pic of one in our gallery. http://www.seedirtrun.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/407/cat/503 http://www.seedirtrun.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/424/cat/503 http://www.seedirtrun.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/427/cat/503 another version http://www.seedirtrun.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/4/cat/503 and the most exotic yet... http://www.seedirtrun.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/478/cat/503/limit/recent Hope this gives you some good ideas. Rod!~