Beth n Rod

Lots of guys do use their sprayer for this. It can be done. You do have to make sure you keep it clean and maintained. If you are concerned you can use a pump up, but either will work. Beth

Rod has used both the original and the new M5, and he swears by his M5.

Rod wants to know if you know what the surface of the court is made of. Can you post a picture? How is the run-off, what's the condition of the striping or paint, and is there a coating on it? Rod says these factors will come into play with regards to how you should wash. Also use can use Ryan's suggestion, and you can also use just water, depends on if there is mold, mildew, etc., and how bad the surface is. He has done these several ways. Beth

Rod has done a few of these with a surface cleaner. I'll ask him to check in here this evening when he's back. Beth

Cool! Was there a URL or phone number or anything on the label? Beth

Hi Mathew, Many years ago, early on in my sales day I too hated the word "no", but then I learned that each "no" gets you closer to a "yes". Here's what (in my opinion as a sales professional) I would do it I were you, to get more yes's... First, listen. Ask questions. Don't try to overcome objections or close people. What? Is she NUTS? She's not trying to close them? Nope. Make a list of things you want to be sure to cover with folks when you meet them, and if you don't have the answer to somethiing, tell them you will get back to them with it. Ask the prospect questions. Learn what they want, learn about the last time someone did work. Then you'll know everything you need to know. I have an article I wrote that appeared in BlastMaster years back on Consultative Selling. I think I put it in the Library forum here... Go surfing...Enjoy! Beth

Thanks all. You really know how to make a guy feel.....well, (shoot let me put my dentures back in, they're crooked!) anyway. thanks! :yoda:

I use DAP Dynaflec 230 Elastomeric Latex sealant. Its easy to work with and holds really well. It expands and contracts well. As with other caulks, it needs to be tooled or 'finger it' if you will. It helps to set the contact zones and ensures good adhesion. Rod~

Just so the Moderators know, yes I have seen the above post.... The content stands. However, we do encourage the poster to please share his real name. This post will have alot more credibility if you post your real name. Personally, we do like the wands, all equipment breaks down sometime. Does it break down too easily? That is a tougher question to answer. I will agree that the communication coming from the manufacturer to customers and to us as distributors could be FAR better than it is. I'll just leave it at that.... :( Beth

That was funny Scott... :groovy: And Jon, you're pretty special to us, too! {{{{hug}}}} Beth :groovy3:

Jon, Rod and I consider ourselves fortunate to have you as a friend. You have been there for us, and during the time I have worked with you on PWNA items, you have been there for the organization and the members as well. Anytime I have ever said 'hey Jon, can you talk to this person and help them please' you have done it with a giving and positive can-do attitude. You may be leaving power washing, but you'll always be a friend of ours. Beth & Rod p.s. You'll always have Moderator status on these forums....:groovy3:

Yes. Everything gold was pine, the rest was ipe. This was considered a two tone job, and was priced accordingly. It took a while yes, but they were thrilled. I know we will be maintaining that deck for years to come. We padded and brushed everything on that deck, except the lattice, which was sprayed and then padded. Beth

Great Jim, Tell us how you do it then! Let the rest of the bbs know and lets get some feedback from them too! Rod~

Sounds like you need a smaller port valve on the bypass end of the unloader. Check with a local repair shop and they can get you one. Same problem here, changed out a K-7 with the exact same one but the port valve the manufacturer shipped in it was too large and caused the surging cycle. The mechanic showed me the same technique to check it by squeezing the bypass line enough to restrict the flow and the surging stopped. But just as quickly, as he let it go, the cycling started back up. Rod~

Here's Steve Howland's response to me vial email.... ************************************************* Beth, Please let the customer know that all they need to do is re glue the part on using an epoxy type product, the surface should be sanded on the area the glue will be applied. Allow 24 hours for complete cure. Be sure the line up the pin lok collar with the trigger gun so that the pole will be in correct position once the part is glued and cured. Any further questions please let me know. Sincerely, Stephen Howland Extend-A-Wand Inc. PO Box 3090 33B Rosemont Avenue Sussex, New Brunswick E4E 2R5 Canada Toll Free Tel: 866.783.9390 Toll Free Fax: 866.783.9424 Local Tel: (506)433.1939 Local Fax: (506)433.1508 EMail: info@extendawand.com

Press ReleaseSource: Law Offices of Marc B. Kramer, P.C. Law Offices of Marc B. Kramer, P.C. Announces Nationwide Class Action Certified by Court Against Trex Company, Inc. (NYSE: TWP) and ExxonMobil (NYSE: XOM) in Case Alleging Product Defects Wednesday June 2, 10:25 am ET NEW JERSEY, June 2 /PRNewswire/ -- On May 28, 2004, the Superior Court of New Jersey certified a nationwide class action in a case originally filed in 2000 against Trex Company, Inc. (NYSE: TWP - News) and ExxonMobil Corp. (NYSE: XOM - News; collectively, the "Company"). The case alleges that the TREX product is defective. The Court certified a nationwide class of consumers spanning the twelve- year period from 1992 through 2004 on a claim that the warranty issued by Trex and ExxonMobil in conjunction with the sale and distribution of composite lumber products is unconscionable and must be reformed. In addition, a class of New Jersey consumers will be certified for the same twelve-year period on claims that the sale, marketing and distribution of allegedly defective Trex lumber products (and its predecessor product Timbrex) violated the New Jersey Consumer Fraud Act and breached express and implied warranties. Damages under the New Jersey Consumer Fraud Act are trebled as a matter of law. In connection with the nationwide reformation of warranty claim, the Court observed that "[t]his issue has already been argued before the Appellate Division in this case and their decision is controlling." The complaint alleges that the Trex and Timbrex products rot, splinter and degrade as a result of inherent defects in the manufacturing process. The defects are allegedly inconsistent with claims in the marketing materials distributed by the Company. In addition, although the Company claims that the product does not need sealants, after the product exhibits mold, the Company allegedly recommends that consumers apply sealants. Plaintiffs also seek to reform the Company's warranty to, inter alia, include costs of repair and replacement of allegedly defective product, cover costs of sealants and eliminate the exclusive remedy of providing replacement product. On the New Jersey class action claims for violation of the New Jersey Consumer Fraud Act and breach of express and implied warranties, Plaintiffs seek money damages. In certifying the Class, the Court noted that the damages theory in the case could be supported by evidence that Trex's allegedly false advertising campaign allows them to charge a price of fifteen (15%) percent higher than alternative pressure-treated lumber products. According to the Court, the New Jersey classes "will serve the purpose of a 'test case' but on a much larger scale." Marc B. Kramer, attorney for the Class, said "We are obviously gratified that the Court certified a nationwide class in this important consumer protection case." While the amount of damages must await further discovery, Kramer explained that "over the past twelve years, Trex and ExxonMobil have sold allegedly defective products nationwide to hundreds of thousands of consumers. Those people did not get what they paid for." Source: Law Offices of Marc B. Kramer, P.C.

http://www.winchesterstar.com/TheWi...siness_trex.asp http://www.sheltermagazine.com/newslawsuit063004.htm

For those of you who are wondering what the hubbub is about acetone when working on hardwoods, here is some helpful information. We all know that Ipe', Teak, Balau, Mahogany, Cherry, Hickory and Ash are hardwoods which acheive their namesake properties due to the density of their structure. Because the wood is so dense, there is literally not much room for product to penetrate into the substrate. Many products normally designed for use on less dense woods will not last long due to this situation. Water will penetrate because it has 'adhesive' qualities that when combined with the woods fibers, pull on each other. Its a symbiotic relationship. Now on the other hand, when using a sealer, the oils are likely to penetrate to some extent, but the solids in the sealer are left to fend for themselves on top of the wood where they are susceptible to being easily worn away. Solids (Manmade resins and pigments) are not necessarily compatible with the ones found naturally in the wood. Since they do not bond very well to each other, this leaves the solids with little to hold onto. So therein lies the problem, how do you give them anything to hold onto? Acetone helps to temporarily emulsify the natural sugars (resins if you will) in the wood. Applying Acetone to a small area and then applying your product to the same area within 15-20 minutes depending on ambient temps and humidity starts the emulsification of the sugars naturally occuring in the wood allowing the sugars and solids you are about to apply to commingle. As the Acetone evaporates, it allows the two to coalesce and harden. This forms a bond with the wood giving it the ability it needs to last. The principle is somewhat the same as when using crazy glue. (cyanoacrylate) You know, the action of breaking 2 surfaces down and allowing them to mix and then reharden forming one continual bond. While all of this is very interesting, the important thing to remember here is that there is a possibility for other products out there to be used on hardwoods. Rod~

Both of these are freshly washed Ipe. Notice one is blonde the other is pretty red. This is common. Also look real close and you can see a faint hint of where a tiny knothole would be. Also notice there is not much to the rings, although some boards will have them. Notice how tight the grain looks. One sure giveaway is look for wood screws. You won't find nails on an ipe deck. I doubt you could nail through the wood.

Oh Celeste, you will LOVE ipe. It's brazillian hardwood, and is dense and beautiful. The grain reminds me a bit of teak. The color can range from a gold to a deep red like a mahogany. I sure hope you get the chance to see some. I'll dig up a photo of a board close up and post it for you. The way you can tell these different types is the distance on the rings, the color, the shape of the rings, the smell (no laughing, I sometimes sniff wood to distinguish between redwood and cedar). Go look at some teak furniture in a store if you have a garden center near you. Run your hands over it, look closely at the grain. You'll see similarities in some of the families of species... For example - all cedar has a spicy smell. Also knotholes are common. Redwood the rings are tight, the wood is darker and is soft like cedar if you scratch it with a fingernail, but no spicy smell. Ipe, teak, Balau, mahogany all have a tighter grain. On Ipe , teak and balau it becomes harder to see the rings. (to me anyway) but the grain looks different on the hardwood. Pine has wider rings, look at your PT lumber .. look for that arrowhead pattern it has. Hope this hleps. Let me see if I can find you some pics. Please don't feel silly. We all have a first time we see a wood type. Beth :groovy3:

Here's a couple decks we did with Aussie oil.

How would you know what I know Jim? We were RS users a couple years back. It was not a product we decided to continue with. We moved on to what WE feel are better solutions. Now I NEVER said to use WT on Ipe, I merely suggested that if someone wanted to try it, I suggest using acetone first. I have very, very credible reasons for doing it. I said we suggest Aussie Oil on Ipe. We use three things on various wood species ourselves, we use WT, various Cabot items, and various Sikkens items, depending on the job and customer preference. All are excellent. All three manufacturers make a penetrating oil. In my opinion the Aussie oil is longer than either the SRD or WT. This is why I suggest the acetone, per Sikkens suggestion, for WT and Sikkens alike. I am also very familiar with the resin systems in both of these products. Aussie also seems to have longer oils than RS from our experience with both. For those reading... There are long oils and short oils. Shorter oils are found in thicker products. The longer the oil the thinner the product, also the better the penetration. Oil types also play into this. There are different grades of each of these oils, meant for different uses. Some examples are: tung oil linseed oil alkyd oil parafinic oil There are also various resins that can be in a product. It is important to know what difference oils and resins do and what results they will yield. I'm glad you get such nice results with RS. But Jim, just because we don't use bleach and RS does not make us idiots. We too get excellent results and do great work that lasts as it should. Have a great day. :groovy3: :groovy2: :groovy: Beth

James, did you apply acetone to the ipe before you applied the Wood Tux? Please advise... I would not suggest applying WT on Ipe without doing that FIRST... this is the same step Sikkens suggest for use with their product. Cabot does not list the need for this step, however on newer would I would suggest it. I would not suggest Ready Seal on Ipe. I do not think the oils are long enough. I have worked with several products on Ipe, and like Cabot's Aussie oil best. Beth

Jesse, Wood Tux has not been tested on Ipe yet, at least not by us. We suggest applying Cabots Australian Timer Oil. Let the lumber age maybe 6 month, wash w/ efc, then nuetralize lightly, and seal. Beth

I have an 18 ft fiberglass flip lock in stock, and a 24' aluminum pin lock. Also a 18' aluminum pin lock.