Beth n Rod

If they didn't kill off any existing mold, the likelihood of mold returning is certain. The extent of which is only determinable by a couple of factors. 1. Wood too wet when stained. 2. Deck too low to the ground and high moisture from the evaporating soil beneath keeping mold alive also leading to return. 3. Over hanging plants/trees, excessive shade and or hot tub/pool/pond in proximity adding moisture/humidity for the mold to feed on. Strip the deck. Apply bleach and water at 50/50 (bleach/water) to the bare wood and let dwell. Reapply where dark or otherwise not the true color of wood is present. Rinse thoroughly and then neutralize. Any stain that is oil based at that point should have an additional mildewcide added to help stave off any growth onset during the cure time and a drier (Japan Drier) to help speed up the cure and minimize the ability for the environment to deposit and stick in the stain. Hope this helps. Rod

The Orange looking product may be Sikkens Dek. It was all the rage back then and if that is the gazebo ceiling you pictured, then I'd leave it as an accent. The rest of it has to be stripped unless you offer to prime and solid stain it. Don't bother wasting your money on strippers at H.D. Go here:https://www.opwdecks.com/ and get a contractor grade product. You will need also this:633-ADD which is an additive that helps to strip acrylics and solid stains. You can get it from here-http://www.acrproductsinc.com/ Tell them I sent you. Meanwhile, inform the customer that this is not just a sanding job as you previously thought. That is part of it but not till you get the bulk of the stain off. There will still be some stain in the cracks. No machine or chemical is able to remove. Keeping that in mind is why I suggested priming and solid stain to hide it. The deck boards don't appear bad enough to warrant replacement so the options are limited based upon what the customer can pay and what he is willing to accept as the end result aesthetic. Stripping the ceiling will be the ultimate p.i.t.a. because gravity is pulling your stripper down and in order to get the product to loosen (there are likely 2 coats) you will have to use a stiff bristle brush to agitate it while the product is working. Get the difficulty yet? Just clean it as the manufacturer prescribes with bleach and tsp in water and then rinse. From that level on down, make a distinct separation from it for the other color. If you do strip the entire deck and leave the ceiling alone you can expect a decent result but inform the customer of the potential you can't get rid of the stain in the cracks without replacing the boards. That poses another problem. With any 'see-through' stain, you will have a noticeable difference in the aged wood and new. There is no way to match them in most cases because in order to do so, you have to not only change the color on those new boards, you have to increase the pigment amount to compensate as well. Unless you are practiced at this, I wouldn't do it because it is more trial and error and you end up with a bunch of color pigments you may never use the rest of and it goes to waste. Food for thought. Rod

Cellular structure and pores of the wood are two completely different scales. Soft woods don't have pores. They consist of elongated fibers. Hard woods do have pores but I doubt these are the ones you are referring to in your post. The cells of the wood are closed and cannot be imbued with anything without compromising the integrity of the cell. Scientifically speaking, everything we do to wood happens at the surface and barely penetrates through to the substrate or underlying layers. Considering that this product is designed for cedar (according to the website), I don't see much use in pressure treated lumber which already has the protection installed. Cedar is best protected from damage by simply sealing the end grain with an appropriate sealer upon installation. Baring that, there is no practicality for this product to be installed unless it can be done before construction. Stains last longer on vertical surfaces due to lack of environmental degradation and UV exposure is indirect in most cases where this longevity is observed. My question with the claims to increasing/impeding wood dynamic expansion etc is due to the inability to access all sides of the deck boards/ends etc. Without installing it before the installation, I don't see the claim as reasonably accurate. Furthermore, using a silicone derivative to seal wood prevents any stain from being able to adhere seeing as they are notorious for setting up a repellent feature that stains are not manufactured to adhere. Keeping that in mind, its use on a commercial scale is unsuitable as homeowners are always looking to add their own flair to the deck in a color scheme(s) that compliments the landscaping and house. Having a bare deck greying from UV degradation and being unable to apply a stain that will have any reasonable duration becomes a deterrent. Applying this product before any stain would also Void any manufacturer warranty because it would impeded penetration considering the bulk of stains produced today are now hybrids and water based to begin with. Forgive the argument, but when it comes to wood, I am a champion of informing people and not just letting simple claims create a money waste situation for the customer or the applicator. In your post, I don't feel you have addressed these concerns properly and according to the website, did not find any evidence of compatibility with any brand on the market. That in and of itself is a problem because it sets up a liability for the applicator and unreasonable expectations for the homeowner since there are NO examples or proven trials, no accolades attesting the claims and no photos showing any duration that can provide any confidence in the products capabilities or applicable uses. As far as termites on cedar...yes, immature growth is susceptible but if a treatment is required, many stains on the market already incorporate a preservative. If not, there are alternatives that do not impede the application of a stain or sealer otherwise. Btw, the video and its presentation are outdated. CCA wood hasn't been produced since the ban went into effect 12/31/2003 most decks are now comprised of treatments that have little detriment to human exposure. Again, in the website, there are no photos or testimonials validating the claims. Rod

Depends in part on the type of product you are looking to apply. We use Titan sprayers but the important part is actually the spray tip. It determines the pattern, the vaporization and the amount of product it applies. For viscous stains that are thin, smaller tip orifice sizes are applicable. For heavier bodied stains like semi-solid to solid stains, a larger orifice would be the choice. After that, it becomes a matter of practice and awareness of the environment you are applying in that will ultimately determine the ones you use most. Rod

Thanks. It has been a wild ride to this point and we are a wreck each game. Me gots no finger nails left!!! Rod

Knocking on 57 here and I guess you just have to listen to your bones. I'll be going for a while but I am learning to let the hired hands do the most arduous tasks and select those that are specialized and less of a deficit to my body for myself. Rod

Yes, There is a section of the forum specifically dedicated for this purpose for our members. It's in the Bargain Basement Section you can effectively post your equipment for sale. Rod

The one thing I look for in a purchase is the company and how well they stand behind their product. Given the commonality of the components, the technology standardized, there is not much to decide where the unit is concerned. How is their customer service and durability of the product they sell? Do they handle any issues associated with the unit well? Other than that, you have only the model to choose to suit your needs. Rod

What is the question you have about them? I am assuming you have an equipment problem. Don't own or have any experience with a Bulldog Pro but perhaps can help with the component(s) which are largely the same as most others Rod

Try searches similar to this. approved cleaners for docks on chesapeake bay I am sure there is something allowed besides water but finding it takes time. Rod

I would stick with the ones designed for the machine. The pump could suffer trying to push the extra water. Rod

Unfortunately, there is no stain on the market I am aware of that will sustain the effects of chlorine on it combined with full sun UV any longer. A quick cleaning/neutralization and reapplication is all I can suggest at this point. Hopefully, others may lend their experiences. Consider though, my experiences with products is skewed by comparison due to the VOC regulations in our region over what you have access to purchase in yours. Rod

The parts you outlined (facing up) would be the same as the outward facing part of the trim. Where the trim and the decking butt together, one cannot access to apply. The decking would be one color and the trim would be complete in making a border in the solid color. Yes, the 2x4 bottom and top rails would be all one color. The 4x4 post would all be one color. The 2x6 decking would be the alternate color. Rod

Making the rails all one color is fairly standard and lowest in maintenance costs. The trim edge of the deck is typically stained the same as the verticals so running a tape along the decking would help to keep the solid off them. Edging with the semi-transparent is simple enough as well. The end result is a very nice manicured look and is not hard to take care of albeit you will need to touch up these edge tops every time you do the floor. Rod

Spraying consumption will vary with the wind....literally. Expect to lose 15% in those conditions. But if you have a practiced hand, you can reduce that according to how you change the position of your spray pattern (hold it vertical when doing spindles, Horizontal when spraying the top and bottom rail). I would never advocate skipping the masking. Clean up takes even longer and the results will.....look splotchy on the floor. Any time you have to sand a board, you are removing the part that the sun has darkened by UV exposure. (tan line for example) If you sand part of a board you will get a lighter result in the stain compared to the rest of the board or surrounding boards. The lattice is where you will lose the most but having someone behind (if accessible) to hold a cardboard shield will help recover some of it that collects and allow it to be picked up with a brush and applied somewhere on the intended portions where need be. Removing the top cap is a good way to ensure the product doesn't get on the underside of it. Before you reinstall the cap, seal the underside and ends of it too. Helps to minimize the potential for cupping. If you have an endgrain sealer, apply it to the cut ends instead. This helps reduce shrinking due to loss of the woods Natural moisture through wicking/drying over time. Rod

You should mask the floors where the rails are using blue tape and tarps to keep the primer/solid stain off the decking. We use Behr for solid stains. Tough and durable, easy to touch up. Any primer will do that is meant for deck applications. Rustic Brown as a color is a preference. The color is not the part that endures, it is the oils actually. The color will fade and in a couple of years, require cleaning and a recoat as a maintenance regimen. Armstrong is meant as a moisturizing oil and the pigment serves as a UV inhibitor to help reduce the effects of the sun graying the wood. For sqft coverage, the label calls for 1 gallon to cover 200sqft (If memory serves) but I would calculate for 150sft/gallon to start. Subsequent applications in the coming years will require less. One coat only! Apply till the wood refuses and remove the excess and let dry. For apply a solid stain, for efficiency and speed we use an airless spray by Titan. If you don't have an airless sprayer then brushing/pads or rollers will help with the application but brushes will be required in the tight spots. Solid stain on verticals stays clean longer than the floors do. The caps may get dirty quicker than the spindles/balusters. You can clean them along with the deck in intervals of every 2 years with OxyClean or comparable Sodium Percarbonate solution. Rod

Ground level deck. Facing which direction? (north, south etc.) It is important to understand the site conditions because it will affect the performance of the coating and the way the wood behaves. If you are going to solid stain the rails I would suggest a primer then solid. Have the supplier tint the primer at least 50% the color of the stain you are going to apply. Helps with blending and coverage. We always mask the floor around the rail posts and use a tarp while the verticals are being completed. The floor is last and the easiest and shouldn't be a worry if you accidentally touch the solid colored rails. It will easily clean off using a rag and a mild degreaser/water solution. For Armstrong Clark products, we buy from ACR Products out of Easton Pa. It's about a one day turnaround for delivery if you order in the morning AND if they have the color in stock. Otherwise they will advise you how long it will take. Tell them we sent you. Rod

Yeah, we're all having the same drifting our way over here in the dc area. Rain, snow, cold, rain, cold, windy cold.....yeah....enough already Rod

Weather is not the only factor. Temps don't allow for us to wash because we are creating ice and risking the machines, hoses freezing while out in the cold. We do remodeling work and interior work when it is available since I have carpentry skills to support it. But the chances for those opportunities don't come often. That is what we mean when we say 'We are done for the season'. Pressure washing. I don't have guys on the payroll with any other skill sets to support doing anything else so most of the time they become helpers when the opportunity comes. Rod

We do. Rod

Flagstone isn't a good candidate for sealing. It is a shale rock which will continue to flake off due to the porosity of the stone allowing moisture to flow through it from below. Sealing the top is superfluous. As for cleaning, most likely, you are trying to get rid of mold and algae. A simple soap solution with bleach will work and then scrub with a stiff bristle brush. Then was with a power washer, 40 degree tip and from a distance of at least 6" from the surface to minimize flaking caused by the chisel effect of the pressure. Rod

Wow. Sometimes situations call for a rebuild, other times it calls for replacement. Inadvertently you are replacing it piece by piece. Rod

Sounds high but you must be within your competitors and what the market will bear. Rod

Yeah, I would check into the pump. Sounds similar to a condition I have experienced. Pump wasn't that old either but it was used on a 2 gun machine so it was put to work a great deal. When the tech took the pump apart to take a look inside, the entire gear/piston assembly had just collapsed and was a mangled mess. Scratching my head, we ordered a new pump and back to work I went. Rod

Tyrone, In case you didn't, please read this entire thread. There is quite a lot of information about your questions contained within. Once you have read this thread and still have questions more specific in nature, then I can help. The questions you asked pertain to this thread and are not very easily answered in a blanket question without going into a long list of responses very much like what has been posted above. Happy reading. Rod