Beth n Rod

The Library I am going to direct you to the most common area of this forum to find more information on wood restoration. There is an abundance of information contributed by members of this forum over the years and quite a bit of information pertaining to chemicals. Rod!~

Ok, I will start off with a question for you. Do you wash your dishes without soap? How well does the grease come off without soap. How about your laundry? Do you use soap, softener, bleach, spot pretreater/prewash? When you take a shower? I think you get my drift. Wood can be water chiseled with a pressure washer to make it look clean because you are removing much of the wood the contaminants were residing on. The problems with pressure alone are as follows: 1. High pressure washing removes the early wood (soft wood between the grain) and creates a corduroy type condition which can only be remedied by sanding. Some call this 'raising the grain' which is a misconception and a lack of understanding of the woods reaction to getting wet. If you take a piece of wood and add a drop of water to it... the grain will respond by swelling up as it absorbs it. Problem is, it doesn't always return to the previous condition and requires sanding to get rid of it. Hot water amplifies this condition. 2.Water is the universal solvent but alone it cannot act against many types of contaminants found on decks. Just like cleaning a restaurant hood, you would never rely on hot water alone. You use a caustic to cut the grease so the water can wash it away. Decks are exposed to 'life' as a generality and with that comes food, grease from the bbq grill, drinks which are often acidic and some which contain tannins (wine) and microorganisms from decomposing food. Then you have pet and other wild life waste which can be a biohazard in itself. Mother nature is hard at work with mold, algae, and deciduous matter from trees (leaves, pitch, sap) which stain the wood and promote the growth of mold by water retention. Water alone cannot sanitize, make soluble, emulsify or otherwise dissolve much of these without the aid of soap. It is likely you have heard some of these industry terms and buzz words related to cleaners, bleach and other products since you have a background in hood cleaning so I will address you on that level. Surfactants, emulsifiers, caustic builders and neutralizers/brighteners are all a part of wood cleaning chemicals. The most widely accepted method of cleaning is a 2 step method which consists of a cleaner/stripper and brightener/neutralizer. The first is for the purpose of cleaning obviously and can also be used at higher concentrations to strip with if it is designed to do so. We use a product which has this dual purpose. The brightener/Neutralizer is for bringing the wood back to its original pH and neutralizing the stripping agent used to remove old finishes/coatings etc. Chlorine bleach is the most controversial so do a search here and I am sure you will find much to entertain you about the pro's and cons of it. Your use of a 25* tip is not bad but is reserved for use on decks that are being stripped. A 40* tip is much more innocuous and can cover a wider swatch with each pass. The one thing I will bring to focus is nozzle distance to the wood. There is a minimum distance required to avoid damage. 6" is the minimum distance. Your speed of each pass will determine your effectiveness. A good rule of thumb is to make the pattern of contact at the wood on 6" wide decking to cover that plank and the opposite side of each adjacent plank. Ie; you will cover the entire board plus the sides of the adjacent boards to get into the space between them. As your technique improves, you may learn how to get closer but also understand that your pass speed must also increase as you do. Experiment with this technique and evaluate the results. Look for splintering, soft grain culling (raised grain profile/corduroy effect), stop/start marks (the effect generated by abrupt reversal of direction without a sweeping motion to avoid scaring the wood which looks like a rake in the sand that stops suddenly. Only, this is in the wood grain. Trust me, this is amateur and a point your competition will spot. The whole purpose of wood restoration is to clean the wood without damaging it and bringing it back to a cleaner and more natural state than it was before and then applying a protective coating, finish or preservative to help maintain that condition for the duration of the particular products capability. Anything less is a black eye to the industry and makes it harder on the rest of us who are trying to make a living in this field who have to dispel the worries and fears a customer has had in order to trust someone to provide this service for them. It is from this perspective I post articles like this to help raise the standards of performance before the bad habits can set in. I have read many of your recent posts and can tell you are trying to learn how to do things right and avoid problems so I respond in kind to get you off on the right methods and mindset. Rod!~

If that is the way you want to go then be prepared for some situations that it will not handle. I will give credit to 'one story' washing with low pressure but in my neck of the woods, these are just one side of the house. The others are typically 2 - 3-1/2 stories and I guarantee you, that set-up will NOT reach those places. I know I am going to start an argument here but you asked for advice on doing something which looks great but doesn't take into account any other factors. I'd like to see that set-up work in any 10-15 mph winds that can be found pushing through between 2 houses. Having been frustrated trying to get soap on the siding before it is blown around the corner, I can tell you...this set-up will leave you unable to complete the job. -Get an m-5 jet. It has an adjustable nozzle which allows a fan pattern for up close use and a stream pattern for long distance application. you will need a separate container for your chems close by. Sorry, but this is work and doing it right requires certain compromises on the operators part. -Buy an extension lance (8'-10'). This helps with reach and access to high places over roof extensions and valleys between dormers and gables. -Get an extension pole. Purdy sells one that extends 18' with quick click features for fast extension and reduction. -Pick up a couple of wash type brushes. You will need them for hard to reach and stubborn stains bleach alone will not get. These are examples. Where you get them is up to you. ie. Carbon staining and clay staining, windy days and uneven terrain a ladder will not be safe on. -Look into the chemistry involved in cleaning the most common forms of contaminants found on siding, brick, stucco etc. Bleach and simple cherry are not the magic bullet. Trust me, there is more to it than this and part of it is a liability for bleach left on the surface. Some stains like aluminum oxidation found commonly below capped windows and more cannot be removed by bleach or most soaps. You will need a mild acid. Clay stains also need an acid. In the video, (Sorry Micheal) there is no where near enough rinsing going on and I can guarantee the mold will regrow within 6 months due to insufficient rinsing. You will need a rinse aid and hot water (120* max on vinyl). That temp alone will make holding onto a ball valve for extended periods very uncomfortable. Meanwhile, keep in mind, this video is not a typical example of a house. It is one side, one story and quite easy. I wish they were all like this but they are not. Next time you are driving through a neighborhood, take some time to seriously consider each house you see, look at the construction design, the landscape, terrain, the roof pitch, the extensions such as porches, dormers, gables and eaves, trees and other plantings which can inhibit access. Consider how you would have to access each of these and keep in mind working from the ground and that you must keep 'line of sight' in mind. You are moving into a new segment of this industry and you are obviously supporting a family and wanting to be as effective as possible to make money. Invest in the proper tools, equipment and soaps and you will do well. Don't take one videos word that this is the be-all-end-all solution. It demonstrates well what is possible with that set up but in our experience, it doesn't fill the needs we face on the home styles found in our area. I hope this post helps you to make the decision that is right for you. If what is in the video is sufficient for your area's home styles and you don't have a great deal of tall homes, clay staining, carbon staining, clay staining (found at base and foundations)...get the setup as shown. Ball valve, low pressure injector (attached to the pumps outlet) and whatever bleach + simple cherry. Otherwise, look into the other tools. Rod!~

You and Cathy make a great couple. Great pics. :) Beth

https://www.google.com/landing/takeaction/ <----- Register your voice here!!!! Do you have a small business web site? Do you have articles on your site, or content similar to many other sites because it describes your services? Well, if you have NOT signed this petition you need to get off your fanny and do it. This threat is real!!!! Register your voice! Say NO to this! Beth

Tony, President Obama is opposed to them both. The implications of these could effect the free speech we all enjoy on the web, and even ou4r business sites. Look at the BILL. Beth

Allison, I thought this merited being in Industry News & Events. Nice collection! Beth

GO RAVENS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Beth

I remember Dave. Rod and I first met him in 1999 a the PWNA convention in Baltimore. Great guy. I remember talking to him also at Celeste's round table, and at other industry PWNA events. We all talked to him on the forums. He was an incredibly nice person. I am so sorry to hear this news. I know we will miss him. Our industry has lost a leader, and an icon. Beth

testing......... Beth

Book now for spring! Contact me for owner info. Donegal PA, 15628 Beth

There is another Round Table coming up that is a do not miss event: http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/northeastern-regional-news-events/22470-acr-round-table-march-10th-2012-mark-your-calendars-now.html It is in Easton PA in early March, and have both newbies and many experienced veterans there as well who come from many states for this event. Hope to see you there! Beth

My responses in blue: remember one thing: I do not know you, your background, education or training so what I cover here is making sure I touch all bases necessary so that you have the ability to decide what you already know and where you should focus on what you don't. Nothing personal but I will proceed as if you know nothing about business to avoid omitting any relevant suggestions. One last suggestion I have always employed: Personal evaluation. No matter what you do, there is the potential to do it better, faster and with better results which is where the profitability comes in. Do not get complacent in your methods, techniques or chemicals. There is so much you have to learn and understand that you will never stop learning as this industry is always working on solutions for new situations and better ways to solve them either chemically or with better functioning equipment. There is also the business side of it that you have a significant learning curve...especially with employees. When you are ready to hire one or more, focus on that because it is paramount to your success and sanity. Rod!~

I remember one occasion when we were on a job site doing charity work. A bush had been pruned back to a stump with branches close to the ground sticking out of it, sort of like a crown, but the whole bed was covered in leaves. Rod stepped into it, and twisted his ankle and knee badly. It was enough to put him in a soft cast on the ankle and into a knee brace and on crutches. It was not a good day. Beth p.s. there was the time when on a construction site this one guy offered to show him how a charge for shooting nails worked. Rod said no don't, the guy hit the charge with a pair of pliers, it went off and shot him in the stomach. We were pissed. The superintendent on the site was not happy either. Rod's shirt, and his tummy had a hole, but it was just a flesh wound. Idiot.

ALL members....MUST have a signature. Many thanks in advance. Beth

I can see it just fine. Hmmm...maybe it is a glitch in posting if you are mobile.... Beth

William Ethan..... SIGNATURE.....thank you. Beth

I know what you are talking about and it occurs on wood that has been frequently exposed to moisture like the bottom steps and ground level decks with poor drainage (wood too close together) or cupping. Ricks way is one but you will have to realize that you are destroying the lignin if you do. Lignin is a binder in wood that keeps the cellulose fibers together. When it is damaged chemically you will see fuzzy wood, when it is damaged by UV exposure, it manifests as cracks and splits in the wood along the grain. I have used a combination of bleach and sodium hydroxide to attack deep mold stains but I can only get topical results at best. I then follow with a rinse and then an acid to stop the chemical process and let it dry out a few days. Some sanding may be required as well but after all, if you create an issue while trying to affect a change in the woods condition, you must correct it. Rod!~

Great story Matt! Thanks for sharing it. Beth

Gee.....my posts were pretty short. Not sure how you gleaned so much from them. Bottom line, is that numerous ( not just one) stain manufacturers began to have the same problem once they had to go to lower VOC formulas. We no longer use CATO for example. I used to be a wonderful product. Now it is nothing but problematic. It has drying issues, it stays sticky and it tens to have overall mildew growth rapidly. Before the VOC changes, you didn't see that here. I stand by what I have seen in the field. I have applied (yes me) more gallons of stain than I can count and have watched performance of these products. I'll never be a fan of acrylics on horizontal surfaces, but I have to say oils on horizontals don't perform the way they used to. Beth p.s. last year we switched our deck to TWP to see how it would hold up. Thumbs down. Armstrong Clark held up far better. We also see very good results with Sikkens SRD, but it not our go to product. Ah...and one other thing...I spoke to the fine folks who make TWP....your drying oil is at between 5-7%. That is MUCH lower than AC, and too far below Sikkens SRD to even think about. At 5 to 7% you are getting a very superficial film, only enough to hold in the pigment, but it will stay soft. The higher the drying oil (the lower the non-drying oils), the harder the cure....I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm mistaken.

We don't lease trucks, we buy trucks....we have bought equipment outright and also via lease. Also be sure you ask the accountant about selling a used truck....vs a trade in. Tax advantages there too. Beth

When you can tell the fake phone calls (newbies and competitors shopping prices) from the real customers each spring..... Beth

If it were me, I would ask your accountant. Depreciation and how your books look can effect that decision. Also your accountant might have some suggestions as to the type of lease if you go that route. As far as leases, we have don the dollar buy out, and we have also gone the paid cash route. But before any major acquisition, we have asked our accountant. Beth

Rick, Depends on the ratio of drying and non-drying oils as to the ease of maintenance. Personally I don't think VOC laws will ever allow us to achieve stain nirvana with oils. Beth

I just love these wood geek posts. Makes my heart all warm and fuzzy. I can almost smell the stain in the air...... Beth :sunshine: