Beth n Rod

I would put a set of gauges on the end of one hose you know has no problems. One before the gun, the other after with a tip loaded. Start the unit with the trigger depressed and watch the pressure that registers past the gun. The unloader may need to be adjusted. Rod.

A couple of things come to mind. First is oxidation in the paint making it look dusty. Another is a question: Is the house close to any industry that does cement, blasting or quarry operations? The combination of environment and catalization can cause these pollutants to bond with the coating and become more permanent. If this is the case, repainting may be the best method once the surface has been cleaned as effectively as possible. Rod

GMAN 80% close is not a bad rate. What's the profit margin? Rod

gt2003, Thank you for that clarification. yes, clean with a sodium hydroxide based cleaner and neutralize with an acid. I mistakenly leaped to the conclusion of the deck coating product of same name. Rod

Absolutely.....not. That product will only hold up well if you can coat all 6 sides of the board to limit dynamic changes in the wood and even then if it is going to be subject to salt water...disaster. Most often, a teak oil is the best option to keep the wood moisturized in the interim but will need to be done up to 2x a year to maintain the look. If the boat is covered when not in use and the craft is only for occasional use, just give the decking a light sanding to keep it from getting rough from drying out and leave it bare. But by no means would I ever recommend restore-a-deck or any similar product on a hardwood like teak. Rod

btw, when you time yourself and plan on having employees doing the work, add a factor of time because they are not invested in the success of your company as you are and will take longer as they are thinking more about the hours they get and don't want to bust their ass for only 'XX' dollars per hour. Pressure washing can be exhausting depending on the facet you ultimately focus on. But it can be quite profitable. Rod

Keep in mind that in just 'pressure washing', companies offering this definition of service are a dime a dozen and competition will be high. You might have to investigate just how good a service these companies offer for that price and what the reputation is. BBB and other ratings are a start. We find out what the customer wants, what problems they had in the past and let them pour out their pain and in the process they literally give you the means for which to position yourself to provide what they want and in that way you can command a higher price. We call this 'Consultative' Selling and it works like a charm because there is no pressure and the customer feels like they are in control of the process. It's a dance where we are leading with our questions but the answers they provoke give the customer the impression they are leading. A simple way to get them in your corner is to ask: Have you had this service done before? Any reason why you didn't want to keep using the other company? They will spill it out because if there is any 'Pain' associated with their prior experience, it becomes the fodder for which you can then take all that and position yourself to be the one to not only provide the service but avoid the pitfalls that the last company failed this customer on. Raising your prices above the competition is always a risky thing but I have a feeling you have some sales experience that will lend to your success. The techniques I mentioned are a great way to get a better price and once you have fulfilled your part and the customer is happy the word of mouth spreads and you start getting repeat business. Regarding pressure washing, you will also need to set the expectations with your clientele on the frequency pressure washing will be required. This takes a bit of research into things and in our class for PWNA, we cover in more detail these conditions in wood restoration. In pressure washing, your surfaces will be dictated by the environment, landscape, runoff, shade/trees, cardinal orientation (North, south, east, west...yes. it does play a factor in mold and mildew growth). Learning about the surfaces you will be washing will help you a great deal and avoid a great number of mistakes or setbacks. If you are going to be doing house washing...you need to understand the structure of what you are going to be washing....especially vinyl and aluminum siding. High pressure and these installations do not fare well and you can cause a great deal of damage. (speaking of which, make sure your insurance covers what you are going to be doing...check with Joseph D. Walters Insurance. Insurance can require specificity in definition of coverage for what you are washing to be insured properly) We highly suggest soft washing. Injection soap application, brush and rinse. There is much to learn including what is to be included and not in the scope of your wash regimen. Some people think a porch should be included in a house wash because if you didn't define it as "Siding" washing and which type, you set yourself up for a pissed off customer. On productivity...this is why I suggested you have someone run the lawn mowing part while you ramp up. There is a great deal you need to do yourself and actually time yourself from set up to performing the service to tear down. Most have a flat rate per sqft which covers up to 'X' sqft then the cost goes up. by another measure, you can develop a sliding scale which the price starts out higher and comes down incrementally as the sqft goes up. (the longer you are on the job, the less time setting up and tearing down to be factored) House washing pricing varies and the time to complete depends on the service you are offering. Some just apply bleach and rinse. Others apply a soap and bleach mix and brush the siding and rinse. Some charge extra for exterior gutter cleaning. Windows become a potential upsell but dealing with screens is a hassle because they almost always need to be removed from the inside. We have our customers remove them ahead of time if possible in order to offer window services. See the complexity developing? Research is key. Rod

Concerning cash flow. We have built our customer base from word of mouth and reputation and as such have ourselves booked out months in advance with 1/3's either being held or deposited as the job gets closer in the que. We have jobs that pay the full amount upon completion ('One stop shops' we call them). And others that require 2 trips are on a 1/3 down plus balance upon completion if smaller in size. Others which may take even longer or require a full day on each phase of the 2 day process require a 2/3 payment upon completion of the first phase and balance upon the completion of the rest. You have an advantage where you already have a business in progress. I would use that to expand your customers' services while getting ready for the full time transition next year. Why not get that part going asap? You know your schedule and capabilities best and could use that to set up for future business with you current customers and not skip a beat really. If I was in your position, I would hire someone to continue the business you already have in place while you devote time to building the other. You keep the cash flow going and don't have to worry so much about dropping the net so to speak. You are fortunate in your position. Having two businesses is a great advantage plus it gives you the ability to utilize workers from both in the case you become shorthanded either way. As an employee, many enjoy the diversity. (breaks up the monotony). Plus, it allows you to be able to cross train people for both and cover in the event of shortages in help. Great opportunity I would say. As far as building up a customer base, go with what you know. That is the best place to start. If it worked before, apply it again. Web site is a great way to attract people to your business and since you are already established in one area, you gain some consumer confidence in that as well. Not a jack-of-all-trades mind you but enterprising is a better way to put it. Starting from scratch will take time and you may not be able to command what you want as a new entity. As a division of another, you will have better luck and results. Use it to your advantage. The rest is as I mentioned before. Anywhere you operate whether it be as a lawn mowing company or as a pressure washing company, use your presence in a neighborhood to put out flyers or door knob hangers letting others know what you offer. For each house you serve post a flyer/hanger on each side of that house and the 3 across the street. It takes 7-10 minutes to walk it or have someone do it while the final phase of your current job is happening to keep them busy. Also, target areas that are affluent and have the money more than those run down. You can get a better price and references from them than the alternatives plus less hassle for those wanting the champagne service on a beer budget! Rod

Hello and welcome to The Grime Scene. #1 is a matter of demographics and preference. I will answer for the residential aspect as we found more problems in securing reliable cash flow from commercial due to many non-compliant companies always giving us 'their' schedule of when they cut checks etc. Got fed up with the hassle and concentrated specifically on residential. The only part the comes close to commercial is our relations with property managers which has been very successful and reliable. The details on how to charge vary on what you are washing and if you are going to offer any followup services for wood cleaning/restoration which involves some carpentry and sealant/stain applications. This part is highly weather dependent and I would not dive in until you have taken a certification course to help gain a basis of knowledge. I suggest PWNA for a start. The pricing has to do with YOUR business model and your pay structure. How long does it take you to wash 'X' and what does it cost you to wash: wages, insurance, fuel(s) including travel time and ass time for your crew, chemicals, payments for equipment and any rentals you may have to hire etc. You can price by sqft but you have some math to do. Figuring out what you need to stay afloat is a start combined with the previous paragraph will help guide you on your pricing. Rule of thumb: Raise your prices as the market will bear and only in relation to cost increases you have to pass on to your customers. Depending upon the job size we charge the customer a 1/3 to get started (upon booking) and balance upon completion. In cases where the job is very large and requires more than on trip, 2/3 upon completion of (specified phase of work completed ei; wash/stripping a deck) on the first trip. Balance upon completion of the rest. Some companies offer financing to those customers whose jobs exceed a certain dollar amount and allow payments over a period of time. That can work both ways positively and negatively on cash flow and making payroll if a number of customers are late on payments. #2. You already have a client base to start from and if you have some decent references from them the advantages save you the advertising. I would start by examining each customer you have and coming up with a sheet detailing the optional items you could wash: Patio, walkway, Siding, gutters, pool apron, wall(s), deck(s), fence etc. and how much sqft of each. Offer them the additional services at introductory rates while you are ramping up. At each customers location, pass out a flyer to each house next door and to all houses across the street as a rule. As you know, people talk to their neighbors and ask for feedback on the contractors they use. Great word of mouth. You just have to generate their attention. Landscapers/lawnmowers don't often get much attention but when a crew starts up a pressure washer, people become intrigued. Use that to draw attention to your services. #3. Consider a Sprinter van. They have up to 2 tons cargo capacity. I have a dual gun pressure washer installed at the back, a 200gal square supply tank just forward of it with a tool box on top (plywood table of sorts and a drawer/shelf system along side) and a 3 stack hose reel towards the front just behind the driver seat. Of course you will want a partition wall to protect the occupants in the event of an accident but the main point is all of what you need is on-board and enclosed from the weather and theft. #4. You will find many pressure washers and wood restoration companies won't get out of bed for less than $75.00/hr. Others are around 100-125. Depends on what your market will bear. Once you have done some research on other more established companies, you will find out what is competitive and what you can be profitable on. After 18 years in business, we are of the top highest priced contractors and with a good reputation and service can basically command your price. #5. Sounds reasonable to start if that is what you always book. In our experience, travel also plays a factor in how much you can get done. The jobs get more sporadic in locations as you may have guessed and this will factor into it. The size of the house(s), the type of surface you are washing, the landscape difficulties (plantings and such that get in the way, make access difficult to not possible), rinsing and diverting water to ground (gotta watch out for the water cops) [Clean water act] Plus you will have to check into local laws AHJ's (authorities having jurisdiction) as well. Another issue is water access and flow. Many homes don't always have water flow that can keep up with a pressure washer so that is another factor you will Have to consider in not only the equipment you purchase but if you may require a hydrant meter for tapping a water hydrant if the site doesn't have enough flow AND how to charge for that option as well. The size of the tank can be an issue if you have too many residents with low flow (<4gpm-Gal/per/minute). #6. Many of us 'Specialize' in a specific aspect and up-sell to other items as a rule. ie; we specialize in wood restoration and up-sell house washing and pressure washing services (detailed items according to what is present). We are aware of a number of people in your area that target specifically house washing, fence washing (species of wood specific too) etc. The rest are add-on services and it makes it easier for your crew to be able to sell them on the spot if you come up with a structured price list they can follow. I hope this helps provide some modicum of direction and sense of probability. Rod

Can't be specific without seeing the condition of the platform and the coating installed. Got pics? Rod

Looks like were still at it this week and into the week of the 11th..... [scrambling] Rod

We're getting close. Got a log home to blast on monday and a play lot to do some repairs on but that will probably end our season about the 2nd week of December. After that...indoors we go! Rod

I don't even bother with buying in bulk or that concentration anymore. We have switched to just single bottles of clorox at HD and a few detergents/foaming agents/builders/rinse aids and extension poles and brushes. Get far better cleaning results, no bleach residue left behind, no oxidation issues to contend with and customers that call us back every two years to deal with the problematic sides and the rest of the house is a breeze. Same money, easier cleaning, less time and repeat business. Rod

I don't bother to quote stripping that stuff anymore. It is cheaper to re-skin the deck. Consider that the wood has already gotten to a point that this is a last resort for anyone to consider using this....Crap! After having it on for a long enough period, the wood starts to rot because it is holding in moisture where ever it fails and allows water to collect beneath it where it flakes off. I have tried to strip it off only to find a turbo nozzle works the best and even then it never got rid of the stuff that goes into the cracks. For all the cost associated with trying to remove it, it is far cheaper to just replace the wood and then apply a sealer. fwiw. Rod

Clean it first. Then sand it. Use no higher than 80 grit. You can use a couple of different methods but grinders help get the job done faster if you learn how to keep it with the grain. If you run into corners, use a palm sander (square type the you have to use hook bars to hold the paper which is cut to size specifically for the sander). Rod

Keep the percarb from drying on glass. It turns it cloudy. The cause is the cure fortunately but it ends up taking more time and effort to physically rub or brush them to remove the haze. I would suggest a maintenance strength sodium hydroxide based cleaner and then neutralize. Rod

I can understand your intention to address the customers request but keep this in mind. . . The customer doesn't always know what is best. Cleaning just a part without touching adjacent shakes is a surgical operation and unless you intend to do it by hand just give em a price break to clean them all to look the same (or as close to it as possible considering the proximity to the ground.) I am guessing the shakes have been replaced at some point in the past and the h.o. is proceeding based upon advice given by the installer. The installer is NEVER there to see the progress of nature and exposure for the sake of maintenance. They only see it once everything has gone to rot and decay requiring replacement. Use your best judgement and remember also this....your reputation is in the results. Others don't know the arrangement you make and their perceptions will be based upon solely what you complete. They may think you weren't doing a good job and got fired. Food for thought. Rod

Bumping the thread to see if anyone can help... Rod

Prewet the composite first since you have to neutralize the wood rails. Rod

Good to hear but it would depend on the severity of the rust to do that. Those elements are not active on rust typically. You got lucky. Acid is the way to go. Try tennis ball feet on wrought iron in the future, or clear coat with a Rustoleum product. Beth

Your gauge should be after the gun. The tip after the gauge to determine the pressure according to the nozzle size designated for your pump. Rod

You're Welcome Mike. Rod

Gotcha. I thought you meant it hadn't been sealed yet. Then the dark patches are where water is showing it has gotten into the wood. Not a sealer failure, just an eventuality since the deck can't be sealed on all sides once it is built. Rod

Yeah, I just thought putting up the contact page with a contact phone number would be useful. You may have compared the numbers by now as well. Maybe he got a better service plan and changed but one would think he'd notify his customers in some way of that change. Rod

No idea but his website is still up. Try this link. http://www.pressuretek.com/contact-us.html Rod