Beth n Rod

Try Armstrong Clark. Beth

Cedar is like a sponge, a hard one at that, but the point is it compacts with walking and use. Since cedar is so soft, it doesn't hold onto hard finishes well. A penetrating and moisturizing oil would serve you better. Rod!~

We are located in Maryland. We would be glad to talk to you about your deck. Beth

I see no reason why we can't do BETTER. ...ahem....CONTINUOUS IMPROVEMENT..... Beth :cup:

http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/residential-pressure-washing/21196-house-wash-mix-things-aware.html This is the link I posted above that answers your questions. My post starts at #15. Again I will state, there are consumer based products and then there are contractor grade. You need to talk with a chemical supplier to address which products you need and move away from 'toilet bowl cleaner' and the like. You are in a different league now. Time to change the way you think about chemicals. Rod!~ ps...Talk to Tom @ACR Products for one example. He is one of our advertisers and you can click on the banner to get the contact info.

One would HOPE all contractors. We are members, but this is NOT a members only issue.... Beth

ZAR? is it a Zinzer product? Wolman makes that but idk about the other. I'm the same, gimme something to show it's durability and if it doesn't come in premixed colors, pass. Rod!~

I decided to answer this one separately as it has some points I want to define. Fluid dynamics vs mechanical agitation are what you saw. Fluids, even under pressure can only interact with mass above the substrate when it is hard. The stain exists below the substrate and has no mass to apply the "chisel" effect to, so it cannot reach the areas below as it becomes its own adversary once it impacts the hard surface. This is why I say, use a brush. The other issue I want to address is your use of a 15* tip on siding. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCgQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kpproducts.com%2Fkpbp%2Fdocs%2FKay3542_p.pdf&rct=j&q=vinyl%20siding%20assembly%20illustration&ei=ZByTTcPzLY630QHHmvHMBw&usg=AFQjCNFDL_Pt0DGCZ_b4t0fpz5Emb2mgzw&cad=rja This link to a pdf has on page 7, an illustration of what siding looks like from the side. It shows that all that joins it are a top joint and butt joint and these are held together only by the tension of assembly. While the illustration does not show a vapor/moisture barrier, there is one, but it is not seamless. There are overlaps, but none-the-less, there are points of entry. At the bottom of each row are pin holes. These are designed to allow condensation to escape. They are Not designed to handle high amounts of water which can be introduced under pressure with your tip. What you are doing with a 15* tip is forcing tremendous amounts of water behind that siding and it is cascading behind it as you wash. Water seeks its own level and water will travel laterally as well as down. The pressure you impose will force the water in different directions making it go behind that moisture barrier and penetrate into the particle board that comprises most homes with either vinyl or aluminum siding today. Much like the one in your photo. Your client will not know and you will not know for several year what is going on behind that siding. you have introduced water into an area that was not supposed to have it and now mold is growing without notice and guess what...you are responsible. You cannot rinse it or remove it without removing the siding. So, the bleach you used to kill the stuff on the exterior will now become the basis of what the mold will grow on once it breaks down. (trust me, I have seen it.) It takes a few years and besides the buckling of the siding from the particle board expanding after the glue as broken down from exposure to the bleach you forced behind the siding does its deed. Bleach is also a caustic and is corrosive. Anytime moisture is reintroduced either from high humidity or from points of exit from within the inside of the house, this is reactivated and the process continues till the bleach is no longer viable. This is another reason why I suggest the M-5. you don't need to use high pressure to wash and you surely don't need it to rinse. Just high volumes of water and if you can heat it, the better. Cold water cleans, warm or hot water (not above 115* on vinyl) cleans better. The pressure should not exceed what garden hose pressure the machine can supply with a rinse tip. Rethink your methods cause it can come back to bite you some day when for some reason, that homeowner needs to get the siding replaced due to some form of construction or remodeling and they discover what lies beneath. Rod!~

My responses in blue; The stains on the side of the house can be something different than mold or mildew/algae. It could be carbon staining as well, or it could be aluminum oxide (rust) which appears as a long streak below window frame corners. This one in particular requires an acid to remove while the former will be removed with a different base chemical. Your mix is not capable of dealing with that range of stain and will be ineffective. You need a wider range of reactivity to encompass carbon stains. Acid based cleaners need to be applied separately after your wash is complete and rinsed well. Otherwise, you will create a reaction which can either neutralize your cleaners or create a new one which is a gas and leave the siding with chemical burns. Rod!~

Not heard of it Jeff. Rod!~

Diamondbar...Please fill in your signature. House rules. Beth

That M5 saves LOTS of time. You'll get better at them. :groovy3: Beth

Based upon that information, I would suggest starting with 6-8oz (by weight) per gallon and see what results you get. using bleach to clean with will not do much for the previously installed sealer and that sealer may not be compatible with the one you are applying so check that out too. Bleach ( in high concentrations and extended dwell times) will create a whitening of the wood as it is removing the color ions from the extractives that give woods its distinct color. use no more than 1 cup bleach per gallon of water and rinse well. The rinsing is two fold, One, is to dilute the sodium hypochlorite, the other is to make sure there is little left on the wood. Beware, mixing bleach and oxalic acid will create a gas that can be harmful. Rinse well before applying the oxalic. Safest and less expensive method...go buy some OxyClean. It is a percarbonate (oxygen based bleach which works as well as bleach without the potentials for damage. It only lasts for up to 6 hours at the most then it dies and becomes inactive as the components of the percarbonate use up all the available oxygen in their reaction and once the components are exhausted, there is no more potential for reaction. Rod!~

Welcome to TGS. Please take a moment to fill in your signature. Glad you came out of lurking to say hi. Beth :groovy2:

Which 'mix' are you using? is the first question. 2nd is what do the label directions specify? Rod!~

Welcome to TGS. Please add your signature... Beth

...and one more thing, if you don't put the correct info in your profile, you might not get any calls from contractors here. No one likes a wild goose chase. Beth

PLEASE create your signature. Beth

If all 3 sides were affected and they are all outside walls, the only thing I can determine is that whoever built it didn't install a moisture barrier. Still, that looks as if the siding was washed under high pressure, forcing water behind the siding and without a moisture barrier, you get what you see. Another possibility is directing the spray into the soffits added to the problem. Abnormal circumstance? Not really, just a combination of factors on both the builder and the pressure washing company. This is a perfect example of why a little knowledge is dangerous... My question is why a new addition required such high pressure cleaning to begin with?

Question for you, what was the surface that they were washing made of? You mentioned weep holes so I have to assume it was vinyl. You are correct, it does indeed look like water was forced behind the siding, and is now between the siding and the drywall. Most likely there is insulation there too. to be absolutely sure that you do not end up with mildew and mold growing inside the walls, you need to get into the area behind the drywall and re-insulate, and replace that drywall. The reason this occurred is not because the house was washed, but because the house was most likely washed INCORRECTLY. When too high a pressure or too close a range or the incorrect angle is used when washing then water will get forced behind the siding. Low pressure washing is always advised, and an experienced contractor knows how to clean without the results seen in your video. Hope your contractor is insured...... Beth p.s. Add your signature please.....

Use a percarbonate instead. Rod!~

Mark, call me. Beth

Otherwise, reschedule the job. Don't do a job without the proper product for that job. Rod!~

There is a very good supplier closer to you. Contact Delux. Here is a link. Chemicals and Detergents Call them and let them know what you are trying to do, and get their advice. Tell them we sent you. Beth

We have not used it, but are very skeptical. I would have to be given a sample and put it on a board and let it weather outdoors for a couple of years.... Beth