Beth n Rod

Teenage Wasteland - The Who

Behave yourself. Just think how bad it would be if you do too much too soon and lengthen your recovery time? Beth

It basically has the same challenges a set of rails has, but taller. The key is in the angle of the wand on each pass. Beth :cup:

How did I miss this thread? Here's a large one we did last summer.... Beth :cup:

Ron, Why not let them enter on TGS? Thank you! Beth

Tainted... Please add your signature. House rules. Beth

Like I said (by way of my question) there are many products out there with that ingredient. That was kind of my point. Like it or not, it is a standard ingredient, and like it or not the VOC law changes have effected the coatings with that ingredient, across the board. I still will not install an acrylic on a horizontal surface. Beth

The majority of oil based products contain either linseed or flaxseed oil, mind you, linseed is derived from flax seed. Linseed oil is used in oil-based stains and finishes as a water-proofing agent, helps to bind pigments and it is known to harden wood fibers. Before the 2005 voc changes and subsequent oil based products reformulations, linseed oil products were quite durable and easily repaired. They have been substantially limited since then and now we have more water borne or water based formulations which use alcohols and alkyd/acrylic formulations many of which are hybrids. Mildewcides are used in oil based stains and finishes with linseed oil due to the fact that linseed oil is a natural food for mildew. Borate is only used in a few select stains designed for use on log homes, added as a preservative which acts against fungus growth and is poisonous to wood digesting insects. Keep in mind though, borate is not a formula base in any stain/sealer product but an additive. What we commonly refer to mildew is actually mold or fungus. Borate in formulations can help in the way a mildewcide does by inhibiting it's growth but since it is activated by water, only works when it is wet. Once dry, borate and mildewcides become inactive. To answer the initial question of this thread: The question of preferrence of linseed or no linseed is a design of the product itself. Ready Seal uses a Paraffinic oil which is a non-drying oil. Armstrong Clark uses a combination of paraffinic oil and linseed oil for a dual purpose. The paraffinic oil (not to be confused with paraffin wax which is also used as a sealer but is much weaker, it is from this wax that paraffinic oil is derived) acts as a moisturizer and conditioner to help keep the wood enriched. As an oil, it also acts as a moisture barrier preventing water absorption. Linseed oil as a drying oil is the waterproofer. Ready seal does not need a mildewcide whereas Armstrong Clarks by nature does. Neither is immune to mildew growth as oil based products (especially non-drying formulations) tend to exude oil under conditions which affect the wood dimensionally (heat, moisture/humidity, cold) and as this happens the oil leaves a surface which can be tacky, leading to the capture of spores and pollen which mildew grow upon. Rod!~ ps, if I missed anything anyone, please feel free to chime in.

I have been contemplating many versions of what you have for use on decks not only to calm the breeze but to catch the overspray. Functionality vs practicality has always been the issue though. We tend to drape a tarp over a fence and spray while under it. The guys are wearing respirators while doing it but it does help control the overspray. Decks of course are another thing. We tend to spray only the undersides of the rail caps and bottom rail to get all the corners involved around the spindles. Otherwise its pad only for the rest. Rod!~

We use shields, tarps, and plastic. Works well. Beth

Doug, I'll ask you another question....will anything prevent mildew from growing on any outdoor surface? Beth

Doug, Can you name the popular products out there today that have linseed oil in them? What product do YOU use? Beth

Please add your signature. (settings) Thanks. Beth

Looking good!!! :banana: Beth

+1..... Beth

Amazing...... Beth

You should be able to get an affordable lease with a $1.00 buyout. Talk to your accountant, but this is what we have done before and it was not a problem to pay off, and could be depreciated over time. Also the $1.00 buyout is more favorable than some other lease options. Beth

James..... .... post a few pics. It really helps us all to help you better. Beth

Just thought I would pop a question to see what life is like for other woodies this time of year. -Got anything going? -Cabin fever yet? -Remodeling anything? -How fat have you gotten? -Sick of the weather channel yet? Rod!~

Our main focus is wood, and just about anything havinbg to do with it. We love decks.... Beth

We use ACT and QuickBooks for customer management and accounting. Rod!~

It's not a walkout. There is a vapor barrier on the floor, under the heating, next to the concrete. The heat takes the cold off of the floor which will be nice in the winter. In the summer we will leave it off. Also adding LOTS of storage. We are waiting for the floor to ceiling cabinets to arrive, and then we will finish them and install them. Beth

Let's try this.... OOOPS...number two and three should be reversed. Old basement, drywall in, down to concrete, radiant heating down, new floor down.....next comes custom cabinets we are finishing ourselves.... Beth

Cool! That sounds like a fun way to pass slow time. Beth

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=497765774067&set=a.497765679067.282557.823999067 Beth