Beth n Rod

DOH!!! I have GOT to get this done this week.... Thanks for the reminder. Beth

Ozone layer...the environment..... Beth

Ummm....do you own work, take your own photos. Most of us feel this way I think. Beth

Cleaner Times is a great publication, and I'm glad our industry has it. Beth

Who makes it? Beth

Oh cool fun!!!!! :-) I'll have to enter. Beth

Nicely done!!! Beth :cup:

She's 21!!!!!!! :) Hope it was a great day! Beth & Rod

Gracos aren't what they used to be? Right..... The poor sprayer....those are very nice machines. Beth

What about the left coast? San Francisco (loved it) or maybe LA or San Diego? Beth

Go PWNA!!!! :banana: Good stuff going on! Beth

Some people come to us with the preconceived notion that we are not what we say we are or that in their little world they know more than anyone else despite the facts to the contrary. i.e. they are just hard headed. Anyone who will apply a product contrary to the labeled directions and complains about the results, blames the product and continues to deny the fact they did it wrong is just an idiot imo. We give our customers the benefit of the doubt and help as much as possible, this guy we just had to draw the line and fire him as a customer. Rod!~

Unless you have tests done on the same deck or wood, same age, same species, same exposure, applied the same time, then you are not making a fair comparison. Can you tell me specifically about the decks you went to? Which had what product, what age was the wood, when was the product applied, what was the orientation of the deck, what is the species? Because if you can't your claim has no basis....and I would be interested if you had the facts to back it up. As I said before, we test things side by side here so we know what we are looking at. Beth

Sanding with 20-36 grit for basic material removal is fine but afterward I suggest buffing with a 60 grit osborne brush to remove most splintering and soften the surface. Going higher than 80 closes the wood too much and will not allow for a sufficient penetration/adhesion of the coating. Think of it as hanging on by fingertips vs your whole hand. This is an out-door structure exposed to the elements 24/7/365. It is not a piece of furniture that sits inside a controlled temperature environment where the max temp differential is 10* compared to outside when on any given day, the temps can change by as much as 50*. The product needs to have a good hold and by sanding with anything higher than 80 grit, this is setting up premature failure and potentially upsetting a customer or losing them all together. Rod!~

Here is our criteria for a deck finish/coating/sealer etc.; 1. Does it color shift with UV exposure? (become darker with exposure) 2. Does it flake, peel or fade with age? 3. Does it accept itself as a maintenance coating is required? 4. Does it have a stripper to remove it should the H.O./ subsequent buyer wish to change it? 5. Adhesion/absorption is one thing, does it provide for any moisturization of the wood while the coating is in place? Question being from the basis of an old dried out substrate can become more so with age as the natural moisture leaches out either through a permeable coating or other exposed segments of the wood. 6. Is this product meant to be left alone for the duration of it's 'life expectancy' or does it require cleaning and if so, what product is to be used and how often and what consequences are possible if the wrong cleaner is used? -Reason being that the premise of "lasts _ years" is a regimen of neglect resulting in the need for intensive and expensive remedies upon failure. This most of all is a hot point for our clients who don't want to have to spent a tremendous amount of money each time this work is done. As anyone can see, these questions formulate the basis for choosing a product to offer a client if they do not already have a preference or a coating that can be maintained. Now as far as debate or conversation regarding this product, you will find that it is relatively unknown to many here and as such there is not much to respond to and nor will you find anyone in their right business mind who will accept long term finishes/coatings/sealers etc. They know the pitfalls of such products and only provide ones that will make their job as easy as possible in order to keep the costs to the consumer low. Companies who suggest such products have not yet developed the foresight to understand what they may be in for when the time comes to perform any type of maintenance on it. Most product data sheets do not give much insight as to when or why the product will need attention nor do they give much indications for the inexperienced eye of a consumer in most cases to decide when it is time either. So, with that said, with the exception of solid based stains, anything with less opacity will become a scrutinized prospect under the criteria mentioned above and understood by those who have learned the hard way what to avoid. ...this sounds like one of them. Rod!~

We use 80 in most cases, 60 in some, but never over 80. Had a home owner second guess us once. He came behind us as we sanded with 80 grit, told us we didn't know what we were doing, and hit his cedar rails with 120, then said he was going to go higher on the next pass. At that point we stopped and told him we would not guarantee any kind of results with the finish he wanted applied and that was pretty much it. He applied Sikkens. It failed. He tried to build up SRD to get the same finish you get if you spend more and buy DEK. It didn't work. He admitted to yelling at the support person from Akzo Nobel. His wife looked embarrassed. That was the last time we serviced his deck. We added him to the Do Not Mail list. Beth

Kids LOVE beaches. Sand castles.....water....hamburgers.....fries.... What about Mexico? Someplace like Cozumel? Swimming with the dolphins was incredible. Or an area with pyramid ruins like Costa Maya, or Tulum? There is a place in Jamaica called Beaches that is an all inclusive resort and it has fun kid stuff and activities as well as things for adults. It has a sitter service so you two get alone time as well. Beth

Charlie, You're on point. Beth

Have not been there but it is on the list. But then again any white sandy beach with clear blue water and fruity rum drinks will sell me.... I would pick it over Vegas any day. Our avatar was from a pick taken in the Caribbean. Beth

I guess you could say I am sensitive, but it's more like after this many years I don't take **** from anyone. I'm big enough to admit I absolutely do NOT know everything, and I freely admit when I do not have an answer so I can learn. Life is about learning. But I also am open to hearing about other products and opportunities, although I am a hard sell having seen some really bad product failures and some really poorly executed projects. One of the biggest mistakes we see when someone is new to deck stripping is impatience. The very best advice I can give you is: match the chemical you strip with to the finish you are removing, and stay away from box store products if you can... never skip neutralizing lower the PSI at the tip (not the machine) No yellow or red tips...green is ok, white is your friend No turbo nozzles buff the deck when dry before sealing it, sand if you have to instead, 80 grit, do the whole board not part of it. Beth p.s. mask the house, tarp around the deck....it should be the only thing you seal.

Thanks Nate. :) We have blended a number of the colors. Cedar Semi with Cedar Tone, the Sierra Redwood with Redwood Tone, and the semi-cedar with the redwood tone.... Beth

Apom, Typically one grit is sufficient to sand a deck with after a good strip job. Dwell time is the key to a successful chemical strip. The standard grit for a deck is 80. You should sand the entire length of the board to avoid an uneven or splotchy result. Drum sanders also work well, with a smaller hand held tool around the rail system. Of course it is important to note that you have to counter sink the nails before sanding. Beth

Kevin, I am every bit as entitled to my opinion as any other professional on here. I'm willing to bet that I (regardless of gender) may very well have more hands on wood care experience than you do. (3 grit sanding is typically done on an interior wood surface or for fine wood prep, not on decks; one grit is sufficient) You don't like my responses via PM or on the forums, you are taking pot shots about me (and Rod for that matter), and you don't even know me. That kind of reaction from you again will be considered bashing and will earn you an infraction. I have the respect of my peers throughout the industry and I don't need you lecturing me about how to post. Hopefully, this is the last of that.... Beth

Tilex contains bleach. :) It is meant for use on porcelain and tile surfaces. Beth

James, what is the counter made of? My initial reaction would be try Tilex on the counter (do a test patch) and Soft Scrub in the basin initially (if porcelain) and then as long as it is free of soap scum you can follow up with just the Tilex. Beth