Beth n Rod

The question I have, is did you get paid? I hope so!!! Beth :cup: :banana:

Some people are "house poor"! They bought more than they can afford so while it looks like they have money, they really don't in some cases. I have gone to some houses with fancy cars in the front and the rooms inside are still bare except for the kitchen and maybe the family room. Not all is as it seems at times. Rod!~

Jim, I was not paying attention to the stained area, it was the BARE area that got my attention. You know as well as I do how rapidly the SUN will cause it to turn gray when it is exposed lumber. That's what UV exposure does...turns the wood gray. Beth

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1b-6IQvLyY This is a riot. Beth :cup:

It was up on failblog.org and I found the original on youtube. The one on failblog.org was a little better, but I wasn't sure I could embed it.... Beth :lol: :cup:

Your horizontal is always the first to fail, so placing the board flat is the best test for deck longevity in your climate. You should see that unsealed area weather pretty fast if the board is horizontal. In fact, I know you will. Beth

Nah, twas my bizzaro counterpart ;) Rod!~

Again the question: Was it laying flat (horizontally) or standing (vertically) during the exposure period? Reason why we ask is that there is absolutely no graying of the exposed wood which at 6 weeks should be totally gray....IF it was laying flat. IF it was kept vertical, this explains the lack of graying. Rod!~

Is that board lying flat all the time or leaning and nearly vertical? Beth

It is a sweet money making beast! Beth :dancing:

One last question: Is the customer using salt on their deck to get rid of ice and snow? Otherwise, I think they will have the same problem with cabots or any other solid acrylic. Oil based formula may work better but, you cannot apply over the existing solid acrylic which would require removal by stripping. Rod!~

-not enough time to respond this a.m.- There's some questions I need to ask first anyway. How low to the ground is the deck? Does it have any obstructions of airflow beneath it? Is the cabot solid going to be an oil or acrylic/latex? How old is the deck and what condition are the floor boards? Is there a history of the prep available? (washed with bleach etc) Rod!~

Sand it. Get a large orbital sander, vacuum up the debris, wipe down with a wet cloth, let dry and seal it. Rod!~

^^^What he said^^^ Beth

Yeah well, we were also using Wood Tux with it. From what I understand it does better with a parafinic product by far. Beth

The one we bought a number of years back was from my understanding...a prototype. It worked well but keeping the bristles clean in between jobs was difficult as we were using Wood Tux at the time. The plastic couplers had problems and broke one time. Haven't used it since. Glad to hear others are having better luck with it. I hope that means it is made of more durable components. Rod!~

Good to hear! Keep 'em coming! Beth

There ya go! You may be small but that some big results. Rod!~

The HD-80 alone will eat your flesh if you get it on the skin and do not treat it right away. I have to urge you to protect yourself. It may work if you don't boost it, it may not. It's worth trying. Keep a gallon of vinegar handy when you are working with a caustic like HD-80. If you get any stripper on you pour the vinegar directly over the area liberally. It will help to neutralize it and stop the burning. Cover your eyes.(goggles) Wear a respirator or mask (properly rated for chemical use). Wear gloves.(rubber - rated for chemicals) PVC is optional but DO NOT wear full length blue jeans, if they get soaked the area that will burn you will also increase. I have seen chemical burns on skin and in eyes. It is not something you want to mess with unprepared. Not trying to scare you, just want to you to be safe at the end of your project. It's better than a trip to the ER. For your purposes, I would apply it with a pump up sprayer. Pump ups put vapor into the air. Thus, the above are all suggested. Beth

EFC-38 is a cleaner more that a stripper and although it has some stripping capabilities (contains sodium metasilicate), I would not use it on CWF to strip it off. HD-80 boosted with the 633, yes. As the make-up of sealers and stains has changed so too have the removal chemicals. EFC is not really a contender anymore on many things, since so many are hybrids. Now I will also say you need a respirator and gloves and PVC attire to use that stuff.... Same with using the acid to neutralize. The last ting you want is to get a lung full of vapor and end up in the hospital. And no, none of us starts with all the knowledge we need, and in my post was some very useful advice....increase the dwell time, and perform the scratch test on a vertical surface before you wash. Keep the area you are stripping moist with more stripper (not water) and don't let it dry out when it is trying to work. Beth p.s. I know an excellent contractor in Ellijay, but do not know how far from you that is. I would be glad to introduce you.

Nice work! I'm sure they are thrilled. Beth :groovy3:

You are a novice. It's that simple. Personally, I would have used a boosted HD-80. None of the things you mentioned alone would yield the result you want if the CWF is a hybrid (many are these days). You are getting the results I would have expected. Increase the dwell time by 15 minutes, do a scratch test on a vertical surface to check to see if it is ready, and keep the stripper moist with more product (not water) while it is dwelling. Good luck. Now you know why people hire this kind of job out. Beth :groovy3:

Patrick, Look up in the navigation bar. got to SETTINGS. Click that. On the next screen the navigation is on the left. You'll see it listed there. Beth

I didn't think Ready Seal could even peel..... Beth

One thing I do know is: Polyurethane must be applied when the humidity is low otherwise it will cloud up on you. Rod!~