Beth n Rod

Count me in! Beth

One -vs- the other... Overall it is a matter of preference and condition of your back I guess. I prefer the M-5 x-jet with the adjustable nozzle pattern over downstreaming. 1. It doesn't allow chems into your high pressure line which can degrade the lining leading to possible burst hose(s). 2. When I am done applying, I don't like to have to wait for the line to clear to start rinsing. 3. Ball valves often get stuck to the O'ring inside the unit and require maintenance and downtime to correct. When they get stuck, it won't draw chemical. 4. Under low pressure injection while downstreaming, there is not enough pressure to reach upper levels of houses unless you are going to use an extendable wand (18'-24') which is a back killer for sure. Carrying around a 5 gallon pail with a lid on it and fitted with QC's, a draw hose w/filter extending into the bucket takes care of the spill issues while a siphon valve helps to provide air intake. A set of male and female QC plugs connected together through the lid makes this easy. Having a longer hose (15'-20') for the draw helps minimize the amount of carrying you have to do and gives you more freedom to move around and work while applying your chems. One could also get a small dolly to carry the bucket around with. Saves the back. I am just one of the ideas on this. Others have their preferences but remember they will be based on the type of work they are doing. For residential, trust me, the M-5 x-jet rocks! Rod!~

We have found that using a decker 5'er for chems only is better than trying to use it as an all purpose sprayer. When the seals go, sealant leaking on the grass is just a big time waster to clean up...not to mention liability for sod most times. With just chems, we can dilute and neutralize and not have any problems. Instead, we use a couple of Titan sprayers for application of stain(s). Less waste cause the droplets are smaller and you can get different sized tips to adjust for your spray pattern. Food for thought. Rod!~

Matthew is a great guy. Glad to see he renewed. :groovy3: Beth

Consider just the rail caps in green. It's a nice effect. See Dirt Run! - Closer view of the log home front. Beth

It saddens me to bump this thread. It is with the deepest of sympathies we wish your family comfort in Christ at the passing of your daughter Shelby. It is never easy to lose a loved one, but I can only imagine how terrible it would be to lose a child. May God bless you all. Beth

If you need a green stain for trim, look at Cabot. They make semi-solid and solid stains, and they can be purchased in either oil or acrylic. Beth p.s. strip the deck.

Congrats!!!!! Beth :sunshine:

Rick..... JOKING. I adore being on the water, working or otherwise. Beth

Anytime it gets wet, the enzymes activate causing the stain to permeate the paint. It must be completely removed, primed with a stain killer like kilz and then painted. This should end the problem. Rod!~

Oh man...working at the water sucks....:lol: Beth

....on a roof? Who spends time on a roof other than roofers or roof cleaners?!?!?! Beth

...ok so what else have you found on top of roofs? (besides poop) Beth

The obvious answer to your question is to only used equipment rated to your machines specifications. Most operate within gpm ratings but some are pressure sensitive as you have noticed which makes it difficult to decide which accessories to buy. Like I mentioned, you can work around these limitations by adding products to your formulations to achieve the same results. Some may say that it increases costs but I am afraid that negates the additional benefits of the agents themselves. Penny wise and pound foolish is applicable. According to your plans, there are certain benefits to adding other formulations to your cleaners to achieve better results especially when it comes to cleaning verticals as you may be aware. While a foamer nozzle will provide plenty of foam...initially, if the product you are applying does not have enough fatty acids, the foam will be short lived. So ask yourself; whats the point of having a foamer if my chemicals won't support the application? Adding a foaming agent is pennies on the dollar cause it doesn't take much (2-4oz/gal/mix) to get a great foam on the surface. A foamer nozzle is limited in distance and spread rate. Rod!~

Not all hp chem injectors are created equal. The venturi nozzle inside each unit is designed to pull chem according to its size and the length of hose you are drawing through not to mention the height as well can become a disadvantage if you are not using a correctly designed injector. $30 -vs- $160 is a logical question but there is a considerable difference between the functionality and versatility in each. With a lower priced injector, what you get is it. No proportioners to change the draw rate, little ability to change the spray pattern for close up applications to more distant reaches. It is a straight up injector with whatever draw rate it is built to deliver along with the problems associated with the back-flow ball inside that can corrode or even get stuck to the O-ring inside causing down-time. The X-jet or better yet; the M-5 is an extremely versatile unit which can also double as a washing nozzle when not connected to your draw hose. Contact Tom@ACR products. He adds some other connections to make this unit more adaptable. My only word of caution is to apply duct tape to the black adjustable nozzle to hold in the 'U' ring. Over time, it tends to fall out and they are a bugger to find. When the trigger is closed, the pressure in the line is of no consequence but I think I understand your concern is that that built up pressure when the trigger is pulled poses harm to the accessory attached to your gun!? A work around if you will, is to add a foaming agent and use the m-5 nozzle to apply your chems. Rod!~

Welcome to TGS please add your signature in the SETTINGS area. Beth :groovy3:

I notice people wincing at the mention of the word 'acid'. Sherwin williams is the last known carrier of ABR X-180 deck and fence brightener which is an acid. The label gives plenty of information and precautionary statements to allow for a homeowner to follow and get good results. The acid Beth is recommending is not just for neutralization but also to remove any tannin bleed stains around nails. Just applying a product with an inhibitor in it is not going to get them the best result. The fence is brand new so it only requires a light washing to remove any superficial dirt and environmental contaminants. This is the best time to get the right results otherwise, anything that is present will be taken deeper into the wood substrate and create a stain that is difficult at best for a pro to remove without mechanical abrasion. This is a homeowner who wants to do it right, let's give this person the best info and help available for them to achieve the results they are looking for. btw dmclone, the product mentioned in your quote is baking soda. Sodium Percarbonate (aka oxy-clean) will do. Rod!~

TOTALLY DISAGREE. You need to clean the fence before you seal it. Any lumber that is exposed for about 3 weeks or more, needs to be cleaned first. This includes the time you did not own it, but it was sitting in a stack in a yard, with moisture between the boards. You don't want mildew under your sealer, and you can't always see the beginnings of it. Clean the wood with sodium percarbonate. Neutralize with a mild acid. Let dry. Then seal. Not a huge Olympic fan, but I do know folks who use it. Beth

Great news! Glad to see the momentum! Beth

BA, Please add your signature. You can do this in SETTINGS. Beth

Nature is amazing! Beth

Breakfast! AHAH! Jk, kinda neat if you ask me, but I am not the one who's hard work gets covered by a nest. Rod!~

Welcome to TGS. You need to add a signature, you can do this by going to SETTINGS. Beth

So you work for free? No labor costs? No insurance costs? No other overhead factored in? No travel time? Beth

Since it doesn't have that much wood to it, try measuring by the linear foot or by the number of section, and have a price per section. Just a thought. Beth