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Beth n Rod

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Posts posted by Beth n Rod

  1. Posted · Report reply

    You mentioned sanding must be done in a way to eliminate the splotchy look of the stain...  What causes this? Yes, I am in the process of getting the right tools ( and strippers ) however I have seen the splotchy look  before ( I'm on my knees with a 5" hand orbital - poke fun of me its ok ).  Hand sanded the entire floor, stained and it became spltochy, customers were happy but now that you've mentioned it I know I must of done something wrong ( just don't tell them :peaceful: )

     

    Here is a case from today - saw the work that needed to be done.  The wood is very old ( customer wants to keep the wood and only stain it - still solid just beat up ), gray, beat up, gouged, checked, warped and so on and so forth.  Reminants of some film forming stain on it but most clear and gray.  Would this be the straegy for the deck... I would first use a stripper to clean it, neutralize, let dry, drill in any exposed screws/nails, use a square buff sander to level the playing feild, run the osborne brush or 3M buffer over it and then apply stain.  Good lord I have so many questions and I don't even know where to start...

    Splotchy stain can result from a few different things but mostly it is caused by uneven wear and UV exposure.

    Traffic patterns, furniture and shade are examples.

     

    Sanding isn't always the cure on really old wood. This is the caveat to wood restoration. There are times wood has reached a point it will no longer lookeven or present the

    stain favorably because it will turn darker than normal and absorb a lot of it.

     

    Conditioners help where over/under absorption occurs but that is considered for furniture mostly. In cases where the wood has gotten so old and dried out, I would actually recommend an oil based stain like Armstrong, Ready Seal or TWP to help revitalize the wood.

    Problem is, the regimen requires that this happens over a couple of years (clean and re-apply) in order to get it to a point where it can accept another longer lasting stain and get more uniform application. It still will be darker just because of the age of the wood.

     

    Being on ones knees with an orbital is something we all did in the beginning till we found a better way.

    If the customer is willing to go with the same stain, your suggestions would work except using a stripper to clean it. Are you stripping it or cleaning it?

    The answer will dictate the next course of action and probably prompt other questions.

     

    Rod

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Hot water is the way to go.

    Water as a natural solvent works even better as such when heated.

    It makes cleaning more efficient and faster. Chemicals work better with less and you make money faster because you

    produce better results in shorter time.

     

    4000psi, 5+ GPM belt driven pump but heated!

     

    Trust me. Cleaning houses is even quicker with hot water vs cold.

    I bit the bullet back in 2002 and never looked back. Still have the same machine and it has paid for itself many times over.

     

    Rod

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  10. Posted · Report reply

    Units with Cat pumps on them will give you good service with little interuption due to the pump itself.

    Main thing is maintenance. Change the oil and filters regularly and use fuel that does not exceed E10. Otherwise, use an additive to help with the destruction that fuel can cause.

     

    Make sure the unit hasn't been subjected to fuels exceeding E10 without the additive. You may be buying a machine with a clock running out on it.

     

    As for Ryans post, Understand one thing. We all have to contend with the results and the stigma associated with people getting into this business and becoming a hack.

    It maybe could have been put better but I am not him and his experiences may be more than others have in their area.

     

    Being that you are here and asking questions is the positive and the fact you took the time to research and post your findings here for others to look at shows you aren't lazy.

     

    Great on you for that! :)

     

    Rod

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Matthew,
    Don't take it personally.

    This is actually good advice considering the poster has been through much as have the rest of us.

     

    You are here asking for advice and the one side is you may get some you didn't expect.

    In trying to be helpful, certain questions lead to other questions which make us respond accordingly.

     

    Being in business means thinking about things you woulnd't normally. Trust me in this....there are people out there who are good at trying to exploit new contractors.

    They know you are hungry and haven't developed your client base or reputation.

     

    The forums are here to help. Some may help in other ways. That's all.

     

    Rod

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  16. Posted · Report reply

    I think I must be gauging the amount of stripper needed incorrectly and using the wrong stripper for different applications.  Sometimes I need to blast the pressure washer to full to strip away the stain and it raises the grain.  I'm sanding all the time because of this...   Am I screwing up dwell time on the different stains I'm removing?  Using the wrong product?  Keep reading through the backpages rookie and learn more?  Do you guys remove all the fur?  I find getting between spindles/balusters very difficult but I manage using a Dremel like tool ( name escapes me right now )...  Am I'm worrying too much about the sanding part of things?

     

     
    Dwell time is critical in many situations and certain strippers are only good for removing likewise formulated products ie; stippers for oil based stains, acrylics, latex etc.
    Some strippers can do a lot, others need help by adding a booster or additive.
     
    Since you have not listed what you are using to strip with, I can only suggest you look into more than one.
    We have had great success with HD-80 and boosting it with 633-ADD for most of our stripping purposes.
     
    I cannot speak for others but our company does remove the fuzzing created by stripping. You may want to consider several options for this.
    We use Osborn brushes on Makita 7" grinders (variable speed) to deal with the fuzzing on spindles but also use 3m pads (black coarse stripper pads)
    used with the grinder and a back plate to get into areas under rails.
     
    For the floor, you will have to consider either renting a buffing machine and buying a large brush for it or buying both for use on the floors.
    This will help getting rid of the fuzzies.
     
    If you need to grind/sand the floor, look into a square buff sander. It is approx. 18"X30" and utilizes a combination of a pad for holding the sand paper and the sand paper itself.
    It comes in varying grits. We use 36 for most heavy sanding and finish off with 60 - 80 grit once the desired result has been acheived.
     
    Sanding is a necessary step in order to get the best results and not have splotchy looking stain so your efforts are not in vain. You have a good idea of what to do so far and just need the right 'tools' for the jobs, and I meant that plurally because no two decks are going to be alike.
     
    Having had to strip numerous coats off any one deck alone finding out as the stripper removed each layer, you never know exactly what you are getting in to.
    If you are going to test spot an area....don't do the floor. THAT is the easiest. Try under the rail cap where the sun never shines and it is always the most intact.
     
    There lies the true test of your stripper.
     
    Rod
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