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Beth n Rod

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Posts posted by Beth n Rod


  1. 9 hours ago, zicjam said:

    I think it all depends upon the way one tackles the fencing and other services for providing the ultimate protection for his house,field,farm or any other property.

    Field Wire Fence

    Given that the majority here service fences already installed, there is little to consider beyond washing and sealing. Much comes into account when pricing fence cleaning/sealing. There is neighbors, landscaping, hills, trees, bushes etc. that have to be contended when performing the services and therefor take longer and require more logistically to complete.

    Many don't want to have to deal with their neighbors who will likely be affected to some degree by the service spray into their yards etc. There is much to consider in the estimate and that is where it becomes hard to sell.

    Rod & Beth


  2. For us, it was a full time business decision and has been very successful. Started out just washing decks and houses but it evolved into many other items such as driveways, walkways, pool aprons and more. Began with just myself and hired temp labor as needed for the first year and by the second year began hiring more full time employees albeit it seasonal in our region.
    Beth bought 3 power washers units and we kept one for the business and sold the other 2 to pay for the first. (That didn't work) We ended up taking those back and they became back ups.
    What we did that was the most important was to become members of PWNA (Pressure Washers of North America) and took some courses in various aspects of pressure washing to get up to speed from people who have been doing this for years.

    Bought a surface cleaner (still in our arsenal today) and other various implements of destruction and plowed into building a client base that now is paying for itself by just email reminders and post cards on a regular annual or every 2 year basis as their project would require.

    Now, we have 1 truck with a 1 gun hot water unit and 2 Sprinter vans (1 equipped with a dual gun hot water pressure washer, the other is a multi purpose vehicle) and various equipment to handle most anything our customers need to have service for.

    Pricing is crucial and keeping track of your costs will help you to price accordingly and keep it profitable. One person can start out on a part time basis using the contacts you already have at your disposal and build from there either word of mouth or some advertising. There is a great deal of competition in this business but there are enough homes in this to go around.
    Learn not only how to operate the unit but about cleaners specifically and what each is capable of or not suitable for. That is important.

    Rod & Beth

     


  3. New Concrete should be test spot pressure washed first off. You could damage the cream if the cure is not complete. Usually about 6 months to a year from time poured.
    Otherwise, the damage to the cream from washing is irreversible.

    Muratic is very strong and may be part of the reason for the uneven result.
    Try phosphoric acid based detergents instead. Deitrich Technologies is a great place to start.
    http://www.diedrichtechnologies.com/

     

    Rod & Beth


  4. Not a typical question for this type of forum but I'll try to help here.
    Our company used to perform janitorial services and carpet cleaning so our source for the products was a local janitorial supply company.
    They have per urine/odor cleaners/eliminators that can be used to spot clean.
    I suggest looking for one close to you and asking their personnel for their recommendation of which product suits your situation.

    Rod


  5. Hi Steve.
    Cleaning concrete driveways works best when adding cleaners to address the stains specifically. For overall dirt and grime, a degreaser and bleach do the trick.
    For leaf stains alone, a mild oxalic acid after prewetting helps to lighten them if you are spot treating. Otherwise, increase the strength of the bleach and possibly
    apply by using a pump up sprayer to focus on the dirtiest areas.
    A surface cleaner helps because it uses a rotating bar to spin and clean much more surface than a wand can cover. It's not about the pressure, it's about the method and the cleaners.
    Let me know if you have any further questions or would like to add specifics on what the stain(s) are composed of that are not coming out.

    Rod


  6. On 8/3/2019 at 9:28 AM, Anton said:

    Hello. Yes , I know there is a seal rings. I already have changed original ones for new ones but bolts still go lose. I will try glue on the thread.

    Unloader on my mashine doest have return side. I want to buy one that has it. How to buy right one? If I take one that can hold 300 bars would be enough for me? 250 bars max pump pressure. 

    Take a look at this site: http://www.barens.com/
     

    By the way, sorry for the delay. Very busy and not much time to check in and post.

    Rod & Beth


  7. Those hex caps should have a seal ring inside which helps prevent them from loosening.
    The unloader already installed should work fine for your needs. The return to tank would bypass off the unloader.
    I don't believe this particular model has the proper fitting to incorporate a bypass so it would have to be modified
    with those parts to make it possible.

    Rod

     

     


  8. The 'bolts' your refer to must be tightened to a specific torque and only with the appropriate sized wrench to avoid
    damaging the hex head. I wouldn't suggest thread lock unless the manufacturer specifies. Reason is, if the head of the pump
    is all that ever needs to be replaced, it becomes impossible without damaging the bolts and making removal impossible as well.

    I can't see the set up in place but the typical arrangement is to mount the pw'er next to the tank and then install a bypass hose to return water
    to the tank when the trigger gun is not in use.


    Rod
     


  9. There are a number of them that people use and most find best according to their desired method of application and removal.
    F-13 Gutter Grenade is one.
    Gutter Butter is another I am aware of.
    The rest found in a search are mostly 'consumer' grade.
    Perhaps others may chime in ...

    Rod
     


  10. There may be no bleach residue but from my experience, it looks like chemically induced damage.
    Whether it was bleach or something else is yet to be determined.
    Understanding which paint it is and the basis of it (oil, latex, acrylic, hybrid etc.) will help to understand
    which chemical did the damage.
    Other things play into paint failure and preparation is the leading cause.
    Now, this may also indicate an underlying condition of damage induced before the paint was applied and
    is now revealing in the surface.
    Class action...I would think this one through. It may be a simple issue of another contractor, home owner/diy etc.
    induced condition.
    I have seen similar on siding that looked even but upon washing found streaks that appeared like someone had thrown
    a chemical over it. Home owner was emphatic that nothing ever happened like that and claimed to be the only owner.
    I don't know if that is true, but simply washing and a condition revealing afterwards indicates that the damage was
    already there or the chemicals used in the cleaning created it.
    A paint would not fail in this manner. The photo clearly shows liquid (as the shutter was upside down when it happened) flowing
    on it.
    Dig for more information.

    Rod

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